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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
So, I tried again, but this time I connected the amp to the Bluetooth mode, and I hear the sub, front speakers, and rear speakers, but I don’t hear the other speakers. Blue and grey are the rears. When I turn off the Bluetooth my amp doesn’t play, and I hear the other speakers.They’re not playing together, so I guess the amp is still not connected to the car. I think maybe I might have to try the high level inputs?
I think that's correct. If you're going straight from the speaker wires into your amp without a LOC to convert from speaker/high to line/low, then you would use the high level inputs and let the Sony handle the conversion, functioning as a preamp and amp in one.
 

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I thought that the pac-aoem maz2 would convert the signal to the amp, but I don’t think it’s compatible. I think it sends a signal that the amp doesn’t recognize. I think I’m going to try a different amp like the Rockford Fosgate. The Bluetooth app is too clunky. I got to try that out at least. I should get the Rockford fosgate.
I cut one of the brown wires and that was the right rear speakers by the way. The grey one wasn’t right. I have to try a different amp anyway. Thanks for your assistance. Hey, I’m in Los Angeles. Where are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I thought that the pac-aoem maz2 would convert the signal to the amp, but I don’t think it’s compatible. I think it sends a signal that the amp doesn’t recognize. I think I’m going to try a different amp like the Rockford Fosgate. The Bluetooth app is too clunky. I got to try that out at least. I should get the Rockford fosgate.
I cut one of the brown wires and that was the right rear speakers by the way. The grey one wasn’t right. I have to try a different amp anyway. Thanks for your assistance. Hey, I’m in Los Angeles. Where are you?
NC here. Welcome. I forgot you were using that at the TAU. I think that's correct, the MAZ2 should have a LOC built-in.

Are you using the short leads from the male Ampro or the long leads from the female to power?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
As a postscript, I've found that keeping the amp hooked up to the summed doors AND bassbox/rear center signal works best. That way, it keeps the new sub when you fade to rear (as does the factory sub when you fade to rear), and the new sub hits a little harder with that boosted low-end signal that was going to the factory subs added in.
 

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@perseus Not sure if you've posted in another thread, but where did you run your amp power wire through the firewall? Looks like there's room to drill a hole a little above and right of the main harness from inside the vehicle on the driver side. Just wondering if there's a better spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
@perseus Not sure if you've posted in another thread, but where did you run your amp power wire through the firewall? Looks like there's room to drill a hole a little above and right of the main harness from inside the vehicle on the driver side. Just wondering if there's a better spot.
Once you remove the battery, you'll see where you can slide a coat hanger thru. Just duct up your wire tightly and pull it thru. There's a little nipple already provided, tho you have to snip it (or not I forget). You should be able to see sunlight from the clutch pedal location after pulling back the insulation if you look from the bottom upwards.

ETA: That location that you described sounded like that same spot, by the way.
 

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As a postscript, I've found that keeping the amp hooked up to the summed doors AND bassbox/rear center signal works best. That way, it keeps the new sub when you fade to rear (as does the factory sub when you fade to rear), and the new sub hits a little harder with that boosted low-end signal that was going to the factory subs added in.
Well, it finally worked...what sucks is I don’t know if the Sony amp was bad or the connection. I like the RF amp better anyhow. Worked the first time. All door speakers and sub amped up. What I had to do was attach hi/lo converters to the shorter wires on harness to rca’s and bingo!! There was a guy at a car audio shop who had all the answers. There’s always that one guy who seems to know everything...in any case I had to take bits and pieces of information from the internet and so on to make it work. Sounds strong even without an lc7i. My car didn’t have a factory sub, so I don’t think I had to connect anything there. Remember the brown wires are for the rear right side speaker. You have to cut it...everything is good so far.☺
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Well, it finally worked...what sucks is I don’t know if the Sony amp was bad or the connection. I like the RF amp better anyhow. Worked the first time. All door speakers and sub amped up. What I had to do was attach hi/lo converters to the shorter wires on harness to rca’s and bingo!! There was a guy at a car audio shop who had all the answers. There’s always that one guy who seems to know everything...in any case I had to take bits and pieces of information from the internet and so on to make it work. Sounds strong even without an lc7i. My car didn’t have a factory sub, so I don’t think I had to connect anything there. Remember the brown wires are for the rear right side speaker. You have to cut it...everything is good so far.☺
Glad to hear! You mean on the non-Bose right? They're different on the Bose, which is why I thought a new thread made sense. You may want to jump over to the other amp thread; I think it has 2019 Premium in the thread title.

Congrats though! You have to love when it all comes together like that.
 

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Thanks! It is a Bose system that’s in the grand touring, but I think the sedan had a sub built in, the hatch no. I would have been happy with the factory stereo if there was a sub in the spare. You should change your stock speakers though. It makes a big difference...I have jbl’s front and back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Thanks! It is a Bose system that’s in the grand touring, but I think the sedan had a sub built in, the hatch no. I would have been happy with the factory stereo if there was a sub in the spare. You should change your stock speakers though. It makes a big difference...I have jbl’s front and back.
Nice! I did change to Hertz, but I still have one more to install this week after breaking a part in the front door.

The Premium Plus turbo hatch must have a sub?
 

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Once you remove the battery, you'll see where you can slide a coat hanger thru. Just duct up your wire tightly and pull it thru. There's a little nipple already provided, tho you have to snip it (or not I forget). You should be able to see sunlight from the clutch pedal location after pulling back the insulation if you look from the bottom upwards.

ETA: That location that you described sounded like that same spot, by the way.
Man... that was fun. The "fun" part was snipping the nipple off to get the 8 gauge through. My hand got call cut up in the process, but I was finally able to get back there with a small razor blade, and slice the nipple off. That's as far as I got yesterday - just running the 8 gauge to under the passenger seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Did you run it thru the firewall yet? I read that grease can help but for me a straightened coat hanger with the 8 gauge wire attached with a couple pieces of tightly wrapped tape was fine poking thru from the engine side. I'd leave a couple extra feet in the cabin for now if you haven't already. I had to extend mine to reach the amp's final home.

I mangled that nipple a bit if memory serves. Now that you got me thinking, I may redo the whole thing when I put in the new battery with a correct-fitting grommet to make it airtight. Going to try one of these with the upgrade:

281135



On second thought this looks airtight as is:

281136
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 · (Edited)
Do you think 0 gauge could fit?

ETA: Nevermind, I'm going to stay with 8 gauge too, only I'll fix my extension connection with a proper sized connector. The 10 gauge connector that's on there now isn't ideal.
 

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Do you think 0 gauge could fit?

ETA: Nevermind, I'm going to stay with 8 gauge too, only I'll fix my extension connection with a proper sized connector. The 10 gauge connector that's on there now isn't ideal.
8 gauge was pretty tight through the nipple, and yes, it did slide much easier after I wiped it down with some silicone spray. 10 gauge would have been perfect fit.

Those grommets look pretty cool as long as you could find some clear spots to drill through the firewall. I didn't look too hard for a location like that since I was focused on getting it through that nipple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
This is the latest iteration behind the sub. New remote trigger split off from OEM phone charger power wire coming from kick panel, which should work better at turning off the amp with the car. Added those 2 distribution blocks today.

282322
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
What worked out better for me was to run the Bass-box signal as a separate input into the amp instead of summing it with the front door signal. Since the factory sub is "matched" with the front cowl speakers, grabbing that as your separate sub input is likely just as good to get your subwoofer time aligned.
 
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