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Should look like this with with 3 different leads meeting in one place for each of the 4 connections:
Amp with Bose
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It’s a black mazda3 hb 2017. The 2018 is better, but I got an awesome deal on it. I did get sound when I reconnected the white wires. I’m going to Best Buy today to run some diognostics.
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Did you already try the MAZ2 that is plug and play from the TAU on the 2014-2018s?
Amazon.com: PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface That Allows Replacement or Addition of an Amplifier in Select Mazda Vehicles Without a Factory Bose Sound System: Car Electronics
Buy PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Interface That Allows Replacement or Addition of an Amplifier in Select Mazda Vehicles Without a Factory Bose Sound System: Car Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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I did connect the rca’s from there, and I know it works, because I installed a powered sub. It’s from the factory amp that’s the issue I think going to the new amp.
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I got a big improvement by ditching the Bassbox/rear center signal for the aftermarket sub and letting the LCi8 pass ONLY the full range signal from the doors to the RF, and then letting the RF do the processing. You simply have to set the aftermarket amp to Sub Input: OFF.
Since I'll have a second unused 3" Coax after replacing the front center, maybe I'll use that as a rear center. The factory sub, at least on the sedan, used that speaker a bit like the front center with Centerpoint I believe. That is probably unique to the sedan though. The more I think about it, the more I think they had to have tuned the sedan and hatch completely differently.
Since I'll have a second unused 3" Coax after replacing the front center, maybe I'll use that as a rear center. The factory sub, at least on the sedan, used that speaker a bit like the front center with Centerpoint I believe. That is probably unique to the sedan though. The more I think about it, the more I think they had to have tuned the sedan and hatch completely differently.
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The wiring on the 2019+s is bound to be different from yours. All I can say is that if you stick with it, you'll figure it out I'm sure.
I'm not ashamed to admit I had to blow thru the first $40 in harnesses just figuring out what went where.
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Thanks for the reassurance. The hatchbacks don’t come with a subwoofer. The front door speakers are supposed to act as the subwoofer(s). I don’t think it was a good design.
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Welcome and good luck! Let us know how it goes.
The new ones have a sub, but the bigger difference is that the 2019+ no longer have woofers in the doors. Only 3 inch mids.
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Well, I went to the Best Buys, and they said that there wasn’t a separate connection for the tweeters, just that they were connected to the front door speakers. Does that make any sense? I wanted to control them separately. So, I guess I could connect my combined fronts and rears to the amp.
Did you figure out what color the rear doors are? It seems the left one is blue? And I can’t figure out what the right side is...maybe purple? And what’s the orange and brown wires. It looks like I’m starting back from scratch again...
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That does make some sense. I suspected something along those lines after seeing the crossover built into the tweeters in the 2019+s. Just wasn't sure where the signal was split off. It could be as simple as if you're powering your front doors with an aftermarket amp, you're also automatically powering the tweeters. Either way it's confusing just like the rear doors, which is why I opted not to power any of those in the end on the 2021.
As for colors, I don't think I can help you unfortunately. On mine, and presumably all the 2019-2021s with Bose, the rear doors are not even wired to that green X2 connector. On mine the rear doors are positions 6 and 8 on the X3, and they are a MONO signal, which I think can play havoc with the amp. What I might suggest is that you take that green harness from AmpPro, connect all the leads to each other semi-permanently with electrical tape, and play some music. Then disconnect the leads one at a time and go around listening for which speaker was deactivated after each disconnection until you have sound coming from no more speakers, or you have all of them disconnected but sound is still coming from some speakers, which tells you those speakers are using a different plug, likely the X3 on the left like on mine in that case.
What I opted to do instead of tapping the rears for the subwoofer signal is use one of these to split the front signal in 2 at the LOC:
TBH I think that's all Bose is doing natively anyways. I'd focus on the sub and front doors.
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Yeah, it’s strange...I did what you said and tried to locate the sound by connecting the wires, but when I unplugged the green wire, I got no sound coming from all the speakers and the same goes for the purple one. But the blue one did turn off just the left one. So, the right one is the real mystery. I don’t know which one it could be, except maybe it’s purple and the left is green. The blue wire could be a summing wire that combines left and right?? The Bestbuy people weren’t much help.
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See if this 2014-2018 Mazda green monster pin-out helps:
It should be fairly easy to match the factory slots and wire colors to the color used on the AmpPro. Just make sure you're looking at the connectors from behind where the wires enter into the connector ending at the terminals.
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Looking at those pinouts, you'll need to use that black 16-pin Ampro plug for your front mids. 4 furthest pins on the left looking at back of the connector.
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I think that’s pretty straight forward, but it seems that some wires like the positive and negative tweeter connectors for example are not even the same color on the ampro harness. Also, they are adjacent to each other and not vertically placed.
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I think that's because the woofers, tweeters, and rear doors all use a mono signal, so 1 wire each.
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So, it seems that the rear rights are blue and left is grey on the 16 pin harness, not the other grey ones on the 8 pin harness(which are the front right speakers).
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One thing I mentioned before that I wanted to self-correct about bass matching. The rear doors appear to receive no low-end bass, so when you fade to rear, if you disconnect the Bassbox and don't sum that signal into your LOC, your aftermarket sub volume will also fade to 0. Even if you plug the Bassbox signal into channel 2 on your LOC and sum that into the full range front door signals, then you'll still only get weak sub output when you fade to rear. When you're bass matching/tuning and running the sub from the front doors, fade adjusted to your liking, you should be matching the SPL output from ALL 3 subs (2 cowls + aftermarket).
So if you tap your sub signal from the front doors or use doors + Bassbox signal, keep in mind that the sub output will decrease as you fade to rear. The simple solution here is to set your fade settings first, and THEN calibrate the sub.
Ultimately, my suggestion is to tap the front doors for your sub since it appears the Bassbox signal is only a partial low-end signal.
So if you tap your sub signal from the front doors or use doors + Bassbox signal, keep in mind that the sub output will decrease as you fade to rear. The simple solution here is to set your fade settings first, and THEN calibrate the sub.
Ultimately, my suggestion is to tap the front doors for your sub since it appears the Bassbox signal is only a partial low-end signal.
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So, I tried again, but this time I connected the amp to the Bluetooth mode, and I hear the sub, front speakers, and rear speakers, but I don’t hear the other speakers. Blue and grey are the rears. When I turn off the Bluetooth my amp doesn’t play, and I hear the other speakers.They’re not playing together, so I guess the amp is still not connected to the car. I think maybe I might have to try the high level inputs?
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