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Amp with Bose
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This actually worked. Rear doors tapped into the LOC and then also powered by Rockford Fosgate. Sub works better with signal from C plug's blue leads into Channel 3, but it works well whether you fade to front or rear.
Only problems left are that the amp is not solid blue/yellow. Only solid blue, which suggests a possible short. And if you fade to rear, and then balance to left or right also, you lose the subwoofer signal, but I think that's just a weird relic of Bose's crossover system. Plus I don't intend on ever doing that.
Looks like this:
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I'm going to put off trying to power the rears for now. I only have front replacements anyhow and I keep losing the sub signal when the rear doors are powered by the RF. That mono signal is a PITA to work with.
For now, what seems to be playing well together is this:
A) Tap the signal for the front doors and aftermarket subwoofer from the black AmpPro 8-pin plug on the right.
B) If you're looking to replace and power SOME of the speakers, use the female side of the green AmpPro 16-pin plug in the middle with the LONG leads as your power leads. Leave the corresponding shorter leads coming out of the Bose from the green male AmpPro plug terminated/taped up.
C) Tap the signal for the rear doors from the 16-pin black plug on the left (I may skip this step entirely. It's a crappy mono signal anyways, so I'm going to use my 2 --> 4 RCA splitter to duplicate the mains signal instead).
For now, what seems to be playing well together is this:
A) Tap the signal for the front doors and aftermarket subwoofer from the black AmpPro 8-pin plug on the right.
B) If you're looking to replace and power SOME of the speakers, use the female side of the green AmpPro 16-pin plug in the middle with the LONG leads as your power leads. Leave the corresponding shorter leads coming out of the Bose from the green male AmpPro plug terminated/taped up.
C) Tap the signal for the rear doors from the 16-pin black plug on the left (I may skip this step entirely. It's a crappy mono signal anyways, so I'm going to use my 2 --> 4 RCA splitter to duplicate the mains signal instead).
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A final note about Bose Bassmatch and adding an aftermarket sub.
Since it balances the bass in the front from the 2 cowls with the bass in the rear from the Bassbox, rear center, or aftermarket subwoofer installed with the AmpPro harnesses, your aftermarket subwoofer will also fade to 0 when you fade all the way to the front. That's actually a good thing. In a way you can't add more bass than that provided by the cowls to the front sound stage. Or rather you can, but then the low-end would be too loud in proportion to the higher frequencies.
The end result is hopefully a well integrated low-end that piggybacks on Bose's room calibration, which feels very accurate given the small cabin and essentially new 3 layer system using tweeters, mids, and woofers. It's a LOT like an Atmos setup with satellite heights that are crossed over at 150-200 Hz, bookshelf or tower mains, and sub handling the low-end in a home theater.
Since it balances the bass in the front from the 2 cowls with the bass in the rear from the Bassbox, rear center, or aftermarket subwoofer installed with the AmpPro harnesses, your aftermarket subwoofer will also fade to 0 when you fade all the way to the front. That's actually a good thing. In a way you can't add more bass than that provided by the cowls to the front sound stage. Or rather you can, but then the low-end would be too loud in proportion to the higher frequencies.
The end result is hopefully a well integrated low-end that piggybacks on Bose's room calibration, which feels very accurate given the small cabin and essentially new 3 layer system using tweeters, mids, and woofers. It's a LOT like an Atmos setup with satellite heights that are crossed over at 150-200 Hz, bookshelf or tower mains, and sub handling the low-end in a home theater.
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At least you’re getting sound. Either I have a shorted wire or the amp is defective.
I have a question...do you connect the blue subwoofer line or disconnect it? My Mazda3 gs has no factory subwoofer.
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I think the non-Bose Mazdas are wired differently. On the Bose Mazdas, that blue wire can be a lead to provide a signal for an aftermarket subwoofer (from male Ampro), or if you wire the longer leads from the female connector, it will also power the existing Bassbox. In other words you would leave the long leads disconnected if your goal is to leave the factory woofer inactive.
Did that black 8 pin plug with the blue leads work with the non-Bose system too? The gray and white should be the mains/front doors on the Bose AmpPro 8 pin plug.
It might help to know what your end goal is too. There's always more than one way to skin a cat (man that sounds much worse in writing).
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Here's my revised harness in case that helps anyone:
![280550]()
Some of the things going on:
1) LONG blue leads from 8 pin left disconnected and wrapped in black tape.
2) The group of 6 leads on the left are the signal taps: 4 from the front doors for your Mains signal leads, and 2 longer copper leads that will or can provide the signal (not power) for aftermarket sub (from male AmpPro's shorter blue leads).
3) 6 power leads in copper, gray, and black in the right side group. Those were the LONG leads from the female green AmpPro: 4 to power the front doors (gray and black above), and 2 to power the center dash speaker (copper). The taped off shorter leads to the front doors and center are bundled with the male green connector near the pink heat shrinks.
Some of the things going on:
1) LONG blue leads from 8 pin left disconnected and wrapped in black tape.
2) The group of 6 leads on the left are the signal taps: 4 from the front doors for your Mains signal leads, and 2 longer copper leads that will or can provide the signal (not power) for aftermarket sub (from male AmpPro's shorter blue leads).
3) 6 power leads in copper, gray, and black in the right side group. Those were the LONG leads from the female green AmpPro: 4 to power the front doors (gray and black above), and 2 to power the center dash speaker (copper). The taped off shorter leads to the front doors and center are bundled with the male green connector near the pink heat shrinks.
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That’s a pretty clean job with the wires. It looks professional. I do have a Bose system by the way on a grand touring hatchback. My plan is to use an amp with dsp built in, the Sony xm-gs6dsp. It should have been a clean and simple install, but it’s still not making sound. I’m checking my speaker connections now.
Seriously.. you did a good job!
CK
CK
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Thanks! Yea I had a "no sound" issue when I was powering the shorter signal leads by accident. Let us know how it goes!
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Thank you! Now to mount the amp and LOC to a rack and see if I can tuck that on one side wall of the trunk. Really looking forward to hearing what it sounds like with Centerpoint on low and using the new tweeters, mids, and center in the front. I was going to bounce back into the other thread for that. This wiring project was a lot of fun (and work!)
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My suggestion for the 2019+ with Bose is to start with the Mains signals from the 8-pin BLACK harness and get that hooked up (close the loops on the gray and white leads, then tap in your wires into those loops. See images below). Then, if you plan on replacing any of the factory speakers, swap out the tweeters, center, and mids up front, but start by ONLY powering the mids (Orange and Brown) and center (Gray) from the GREEN harness (and subwoofer straight from the aftermarket amp). The cowls will be a PITA to swap out, and the tweeters, even new ones if you swap them out, won't benefit a ton from more power than the 25 Watts or whatever from the Bose.
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This is where the amp sits for now. Sounding pretty good out of the box with the sub, factory doors, and center all powered by the RF:
![1612994395136.png]()
I may still extend the power cable and heat shrink so I can put the amp and LOC on the side like I originally wanted. Then I could push the sub back another 4 inches or so. But realistically it'll have to come out for some vacations, so I'm not sure it's even worth the effort yet.
![280559]()
ETA: I think I'll try on the side so I can try to fit 2 small suitcases and the net full of items at the same time.
I may still extend the power cable and heat shrink so I can put the amp and LOC on the side like I originally wanted. Then I could push the sub back another 4 inches or so. But realistically it'll have to come out for some vacations, so I'm not sure it's even worth the effort yet.
ETA: I think I'll try on the side so I can try to fit 2 small suitcases and the net full of items at the same time.
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Quick question...do you know the wire color for the left front door? There’s no sound there. My rights are grey. I get sound there...help
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On my 8 pin you have the blue sub, yellow and black ground, and then whites and greys for the doors. So white.
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That’s what I thought too. I’m starting to think I got a defective amplifier...
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If you connect the white leads to the white leads, you should get sound from that speaker. If you do, then at least you'll know it's your amp.
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Bose amp's internals from other site:
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![280564]()
Another Audio System Upgrade Thread
I finally started upgrading the audio system in my SS; it's being done in phases for several reasons. First of course, is to spread out the expenditure of money, time, and effort over a period of months rather than days. But just as importantly, I wanted to spend some time driving and...
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