[perseus]

Started a new thread since the wiring inputs and outputs are different for the Bose units. This is the harness from the PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro that I'll be using to tap the center and front door speakers. The doors are already hooked up (Orange and Brown) from before, so I just have to add the center (Gray) and some expandable braided sleeving.

Going to skip re-wiring the new tweeters. Sub signal from other harness.

 

[elan]

So wait, I'm a little confused. Does that GM specific harness have plugs that are compatible with our Mazdas?

 

[perseus]

So wait, I'm a little confused. Does that GM specific harness have plugs that are compatible with our Mazdas?

I do think the same green "B" plug will work on all 2019+ Mazdas (it works on my 2021 3 w Bose). But for non-Bose folks the pins are assigned differently.

ETA: Apparently the non-Bose Mazdas use proprietary Mazda plugs.

 

[perseus]

This is the harness from the AmpPro that plugs into the far right of the Bose amp. You can tap the front doors, the Bassbox/rear center, or both with it:

 

[perseus]

This is the mystery harness that plugs on the far left of the Bose:

The wire that was snipped and re-connected powered BOTH the front cowls (fourth from left along the top). The black tape is around the wire that runs in parallel on the other side. The 2 grays are to 1 of the full range rear doors (driver's side if memory serves).

Of the remaining wires, 2 also power the front tweeters.

 

[perseus]

A good guess might be that the 2 browns next to the grays are to the passenger side rear door.

And then the next set of 4 are the front tweeters. Or maybe the tweeters are a single channel to the left of the cowl.

 

[perseus]

Ah I think I get it now. Starting with the first brown on the left, it goes cowl, cowl, then tweeter, tweeter, and finally rear door, rear door.

The cowls are just wired in series just like the rear sub. That's why 1 cut disabled both woofers.

To anyone wondering why I didn't use a tone generator, it's mostly because it was fairly cold when I was running the quick tests. And I don't have one, so there's that. Also, as you can see, unlike the green B harness where all the leads are pre-cut, it comes with only 1 speaker (rear door) that's cut and (mis)labelled:

 

[perseus]

Here are the wire colors and assignmnets of the 3 harnesses from the AmpPro. The corresponding pins on the original factory plug have different color wires than the AmpPro.

1) The right black 8 pin C plug, from the back side of the plug while looking at the amp:



2) The middle green 16 pin B plug from back of plug:



(I believe the striped, purple, and green collectively are the 2 rear tweeters and (I think) a third speaker we don't have. The brown P/G wires are larger and have no stripes on either, unlike the RF that has a white stripe on 1 brown lead.)


3) The left black 16 pin A plug:


(This may be wrong. We still need to confirm positions 3, 5, 6, and 7.)

 

[perseus]

Now I think #3 might go tweeter, cowl, tweeter, cowl like the non-Bose. Ultimately RR has to be 6 or 7, depending on if the speakers alternate like they do on the non-Bose plug. But non-Bose alternates only the cowls and tweeters, leaving the rear doors side by side, so I'm going to wire the A plug with the rears as 7 & 8 for now.

 

[perseus]

Slight change of plans since we're close to finding the 2nd rear door. And I think it will be a better use of the RF amp. I'll tap, swap out, and externally power only the front and rear door speakers and subwoofer. I'll still swap out the center and front tweeters as well, but leave those powered by the Bose.

Front doors - 5ch amp
Rear doors - 5ch amp
Subwoofer - 5ch amp
Front tweeters - Bose
Rear tweeters - Bose
Center - Bose
Cowls - Bose

One thing I'm not 100% on yet. Maybe someone can advise. Can/should the LCi8 sum the 4 doors for the sub signal, or do I stick with the separate, mono subwoofer signal from the C plug (#1 above) that powers the Bassbox/rear center and use an RCA Y-splitter like I'm currently doing.

 

[perseus]

An interesting thought I had yesterday regarding what Bose is calling their new "Bassmatch" system: I think this nomenclature tells us something. Specifically, I believe what the sound engineers did was match the SPL output of the 2 front cowls (along with whatever negligible bass output comes out of the mains) to the bass output from the Bassbox or rear center.

The Bassbox has a bigger driver than the sedan rear center, but it's further away, so maybe the SPL matches the sedan's closer rear woofer. Or maybe they calibrated and "matched" the bass differently on the sedan than the hatch. Either way, I think our cars basically have 3 subs, the 2 in the front summed and matched to the single in the rear.

One tell is that if you fade from front to rear, you can alternate between bass outputting from ONLY the cowls or ONLY the Bassbox/rear center.

 

[perseus]

I think we have 2 options if disabling the factory Bose subwoofer, keeping the Bose amp, and adding an aftermarket amp and subwoofer:

A) Use the Bassbox/rear center signal for your new sub. This will fade the bass to only the front or only the rear with the h/u fader. It'll basically deactivate your aftermarket sub and only use the cowls for bass with the fader set to only the front.

B) Use the 4 doors summed for your bass signal.

I think option B probably makes more sense. I'm sure if I were tearing out the Bose amp this would be advised too. Ultimately I think we'll need to bass match an aftermarket sub to the output of ALL the speakers, so it's somewhat moot.

 

[Lirach]

Hi, do you think work the green harness in the amplifier non bose?

Started a new thread since the wiring inputs and outputs are different for the Bose units. This is the harness from the PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro that I'll be using to tap the center and front door speakers. The doors are already hooked up (Orange and Brown) from before, so I just have to add the center (Gray) and some expandable braided sleeving.

View attachment 280403

Going to skip re-wiring the new tweeters. Sub signal from other harness.

 

[perseus]

I suspect that the green B plug might fit in that 16 pin white female. Can you snap a picture of the adapter that plugged into the white socket?

If you look here on non-Bose diagram you see that they refer to that socket as 0920-201B, which I think is the same as that green socket, but would need closeup picture of the male plug that goes in there.

 

[perseus]

The green B adapter is 1.25 inches, or about 32 mm across. This might work too:

New - Dual / Eonon / Boss Audio 16 Pin Car Stereo Wiring / Wire Harness Plug | eBay

New - Multi fit (see title) 16 Pin Car Stereo Audio Wiring / Wire Harness Plug.

www.ebay.com

 

[perseus]

Hi,

And hi!

Have you already swapped out your speakers or is that on your TO DO list too? Are you just trying to tap the doors?

 

[Lirach]

right now I just want to change the door speakers, later want to add an amplifier and DSP.

 

[perseus]

right now I just want to change the door speakers, later want to add an amplifier and DSP.

Here's some more good info:

Bose Amplifier Connector Details

While researching the Bose audio system wiring in our cars, I came across a number of helpful posts/threads on this forum. However, the information was generally scattered across multiple posts in multiple threads, and I was never able to find complete pin-out diagrams for all three Bose...

www.ssforums.com

 

[perseus]

Green is X2.

If yours is more like this X3:

Then that's the black 16 pin A plug from the AmpPro.

 

[perseus]

Do the 16 pins have flat tips like a screwdriver?

You can probably figure out which wires/pins are your front doors if you're fine tapping just those 2 factory wires. I prefer having a harness too tho...