2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally got around to posting a how to on this install. Don't think there’s a complete right up on this yet so here goes.

I’m taking the system from my old 300zx. My main concern was to maintain the stock look inside the cabin and under the hood while having the ability to remove the box/amp if I need the extra trunk space.

I started by attaching the amp to the back of the sub.


Then dismantle the interior panels. This part is surprisingly easy. Most parts are just pulled of:




Some have this type of clip:


Just pull out the center part with your nail and then it pops off:


Probably the trickiest part is finding a place to run the power cable through the firewall so that you can't see it under the hood. We jacked up the car and found a soft rubber grommet around the steering column hidden by a plastic cover:





Next remove the glove box:


Then the radio, I used BP gift cards to separate the center vents from the microphone and then pull it back towards the rear of the car. These are just clips and good force will pop it loose, just take care not to scratch/bend the plastic, it’s very soft. Then a couple screws keep the radio in place.




At this point wire in the LOC, there is a wiring diagram for the big plug behind the radio here: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=145935.0
My_Mazda3 has a good write up there. I spliced the front speaker wires labeled "1A, 1C, 1D, 1F" on the diagram or "FL+, FL-, FR+, FR-" respectively. My LOC also had a ground which I spliced aswell, its "1W" (the big black one). Once wired in all thats left is to hide the LOC and run the RCA cables.

There is a nice little spot under the radio on the passenger side that’s big enough to hide the LOC (green thing) out of site:



Now the easy part, run the Power and Remote Cable on the driver side and the RCA cable on the passenger side. They should come around behind the rear seats then connect the Amp:



Now you can put all the panels on, clean up and enjoy your enhanced bass :)

I did this install with my brother, both of us are pretty handy around cars, and it took us about 4 hours. Big Thanks to my_mazda3 for that wiring diagram.

From what I've read on other posts on running the power cable I think the steering column is the best place to run this. It looks really clean and with the battery cover on, the power cable is virtually invisible.

Next post is the finished product...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
This is the finished product,

My favorite part... under the hood :blush 1:



This is the only visible sign of the power cable, btw the fuse fits in the batter cover, too


This is after the install the cable is under the platic cover around the steering column.



The passenger side:


The Cool part:


 

·
Resident MacGyver
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
Not bad. 4 gauge or 8? Where did you mount the fuse holder under the hood? In the battery box? Also, please tell me there was a jack stand supporting your car when you were under there. If not, you must have a death wish.

EDIT: Doh, I didn't see where you posted the fuse location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
8 gauge wire, more than enough for my amp (its big for nothing). Here are some pics of the fuse.








BTW, always use jack stands, safety first :yes:

I would have done this in the garage but we were working on the civic. Adjustable shocks, coilovers, camber adjustment, complete bushing kit, front and rear disc brake conversion, non power steering rack and pinion and of course rims. Ready for AutoX.

Its my dad's car and I keep telling him that the MS3 going to whoop it with the A/C on! :clap:
 

·
Resident MacGyver
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
Thanks for the pics! Going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?

I would think the MS3 could take the Civic easily, depending on how "open" the track is. Only one way to find out :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the pics! Going to do the big 3 upgrade as well?

I would think the MS3 could take the Civic easily, depending on how "open" the track is. Only one way to find out :)
I probably won't do much more to the 3 for a while. I'll wait until I have options as far as intake goes and thats about it. The car rides so nice and handles great already I just wouldn't want to ruin how comfortable it is as a daily driver. I did everything but big power on my 300zx and every mod just made the car louder, bumpier and less reliable that I dont want that to happen again.

Gotta wait and see what the old man can do with the civic, the suspensions tight and its way lighter. the tracks down here are ussually pretty small unless they do it at the speedway. Like I said my first run after a break the car in for a while will be with the A/C on. :cool 1:
 

·
Resident MacGyver
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
I was referring to the big 3 wiring upgrade (alt to battery, battery to chassis, and engine ground to chassis).

How to upgrade the Big Three

This will ensure that everything is grounded properly. The OEM wire is just enough for what's in the stock car, so the big 3 is generally recommended whenever you do an upgrade to avoid things like dimming lights :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
Good job on the write up!

FYI thre's also another firewall passthough on the passenger's side, kind of behind the glove box...it's covered by a white plastic plug. My installer drilled a hole in the plastic plug, fitted it with a grommet and pulled the 4ga through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I was referring to the big 3 wiring upgrade (alt to battery, battery to chassis, and engine ground to chassis).

This will ensure that everything is grounded properly. The OEM wire is just enough for what's in the stock car, so the big 3 is generally recommended whenever you do an upgrade to avoid things like dimming lights :)
Wow, I did not know this... I've been driving the car like this for a week now and never noticed the headlights dim or anything. I should note that my amp is really not that powerfull and I keep it turned down most of the time. I just like smooth undistored bass at low volumes (I think im getting old) The headlight dimming used to happen in the Z. Was running two amps turned up but nothing so far on the MS3.

Ill look into it and post a video later at night with the system blasting.

Thanks for the info!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
The big 3 is not something that is really needed. It is one of those "just in case" sort of things. I have had so many cars with so many systems, and I personally have never done this. Not saying it doesn't have its value, but my lights never dimmed. Well it did on one of my cars, but that's because the battery was dying.
 

·
Resident MacGyver
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
Yeah, it's a precautionary thing, just like so many things on cars. The upgrade is pretty easy and inexpensive. I'll be doing it once I have everything else in my system taken care of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
which two wires did u use to tap in on the deck wire harness for the high/low converter or loc
I edited the first post, heres the info:

There is a wiring diagram for the big plug behind the radio here: 2010 Mazda 3 Stereo upgrade
My_Mazda3 has a good write up there.

I spliced the front speaker wires labeled "1A, 1C, 1D, 1F" on the diagram or "FL+, FL-, FR+, FR-" respectively. My LOC also had a ground which I spliced aswell, its "1W"
 

·
psychopathic ryda
Joined
·
31 Posts
i finally am getting around to putting my system in. only problem i have run into is what fuse to use for the remote wire. i know the outlet fuses are in the passenger side fuse box but for the life of me i could not find it. (it was dark and i was very short tempered so didnt take much for me to give up for the night.) all the fuses in the engine box seem to have constant power and not acc/on power only. could someone help please. i am goin to tackle it tommorow
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,636 Posts
Seems like everybody taps into the cigarette lighter for the amps remote turn on wire. It's a switched circuit. If someone else has a better idea chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Hey..

Thanks for the pics, just ran my power line today. There's also another firewall pass though on the drivers side, kind of behind the strut mount and battery. I used 8 awg, but you should be able to use 4 awg as long as you have not run anything else there yet. I had run the car alarm cables there already, so had to use the 8 awg.



cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
228 Posts
I tapped into what i believe is the air bag sensors under the seats for the remote . It made it easy to add a rocker switch right under the seat (easy reach + hidden) so i can turn the subs when my gf gets a headache.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top