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Discussion Starter #1
2016 Mazda 3 GS (non-Bose)

Thought I'd share some details about installing a sub into my baby - I mean ride.

Parts from Amazon.CA and what I payed (free shipping but add %5 for tax):
SUB - PIONEER TSSWX2502 - $184.58
AMP - BOSS AUDIO R1100M - $73.73
LOC - KICKER KISLOC - $33.00
WIRING - KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit - $31.99
Also, miscellaneous other stuff like butt connectors. Side note, always buy your butt connectors from amazon. It turns a significant cost into a forgettable one plus you have like 80 left over.

The Sub:
It is a Pioneer 10" shallow sub in a box. Faces down looks unassuming and classy IMO.
The Amp:
Amazon recommended this amp when I settled on the Sub. From what I can tell it is economical. Works good.
The Wiring:
Surprised that this kit does not cost more because it is quality.
The LOC
I know a lot of people use the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 for an LOC and it was tempting for me to drop another ~$100 on it. But I already had the Kicker
KISLOC from my truck that broke down. It is more work to use for sure, but it is 1/3 of the cost, I already had it, and I'm confident with wiring.
Originally I looked at pictures of the PAC online to figure out the wire colors I needed to connect to, since it uses standard wire colors. Special
thanks to user: ozric who's post was able to verify I had everything connected in the right place. Post here: "mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-skyactiv-discussion/3225-factory-speaker-wire-colors-need-help"

General information:
- Ran Power and the Sub level control wire Driver's side
- Ran RCA Passenger side.
- I did not use the included inline fuse for the power wire, because there was a third connection on my battery's positive terminal with a 50A fuse that
had nothing connected to it.
- Using a multimeter, I found a suitable wire to connect for remote. It is Pink, and is one of three wires in the connector that leads to the display.
(The other two wires in this connector are blue and black)
- Amp is installed on ceiling of trunk, hangs just low enough to give clearance for trunk opening tension rods.
- I found these little squares with adhesive backing at homedepot. The face is designed to receive zip ties. This made for a clean look, since the only
visible parts of the wire are on the ceiling of the trunk.
- For now the Bass remote hangs by the foot rest but I intend to figure out how to get at the center console so I can put the knob sticking out to the
right of the USB and memory jack.
- Thinking of incorporating an LED latching switch to control the AMP remote wire. If there is room, it might go beside the knob.

Really pleased with the way everything turned out. Hoping that the component speakers I have on order will bring the overall sound quality up to what I had in my truck, which had pioneer 3-way speakers. Nothing will bring back the vibrating seats :grin2: <- (Laughing but crying a little inside)
 

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Registered
Joined
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3 Posts
2016 Mazda 3 GS (non-Bose)

Thought I'd share some details about installing a sub into my baby - I mean ride.

Parts from Amazon.CA and what I payed (free shipping but add %5 for tax):
SUB - PIONEER TSSWX2502 - $184.58
AMP - BOSS AUDIO R1100M - $73.73
LOC - KICKER KISLOC - $33.00
WIRING - KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit - $31.99
Also, miscellaneous other stuff like butt connectors. Side note, always buy your butt connectors from amazon. It turns a significant cost into a forgettable one plus you have like 80 left over.

The Sub:
It is a Pioneer 10" shallow sub in a box. Faces down looks unassuming and classy IMO.
The Amp:
Amazon recommended this amp when I settled on the Sub. From what I can tell it is economical. Works good.
The Wiring:
Surprised that this kit does not cost more because it is quality.
The LOC
I know a lot of people use the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 for an LOC and it was tempting for me to drop another ~$100 on it. But I already had the Kicker
KISLOC from my truck that broke down. It is more work to use for sure, but it is 1/3 of the cost, I already had it, and I'm confident with wiring.
Originally I looked at pictures of the PAC online to figure out the wire colors I needed to connect to, since it uses standard wire colors. Special
thanks to user: ozric who's post was able to verify I had everything connected in the right place. Post here: "mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-skyactiv-discussion/3225-factory-speaker-wire-colors-need-help"

General information:
- Ran Power and the Sub level control wire Driver's side
- Ran RCA Passenger side.
- I did not use the included inline fuse for the power wire, because there was a third connection on my battery's positive terminal with a 50A fuse that
had nothing connected to it.
- Using a multimeter, I found a suitable wire to connect for remote. It is Pink, and is one of three wires in the connector that leads to the display.
(The other two wires in this connector are blue and black)
- Amp is installed on ceiling of trunk, hangs just low enough to give clearance for trunk opening tension rods.
- I found these little squares with adhesive backing at homedepot. The face is designed to receive zip ties. This made for a clean look, since the only
visible parts of the wire are on the ceiling of the trunk.
- For now the Bass remote hangs by the foot rest but I intend to figure out how to get at the center console so I can put the knob sticking out to the
right of the USB and memory jack.
- Thinking of incorporating an LED latching switch to control the AMP remote wire. If there is room, it might go beside the knob.

Really pleased with the way everything turned out. Hoping that the component speakers I have on order will bring the overall sound quality up to what I had in my truck, which had pioneer 3-way speakers. Nothing will bring back the vibrating seats :grin2: <- (Laughing but crying a little inside)
If its pleasing you then great man but just keep in mind we have the best car for aftermarket audio systems (in my opinion) big trunk = lots of room for subwoofer(s). if you are still craving that same vibration in the seats it really doesnt take too too much. im running a single 15 inch MTX Superwoofer (T9500) on a boss Ar3000.2 in a ported enclosure and the seats are the least thing that vibrate... my eyeballs vibrate to the point its hard to read signs and honestly with a second pioneer sub with the right amp in your setup could give you a throwback to your truck except those 3ways wont mean anything to you anymore (except when you wanna hear lyrics LOL)
 
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