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I have a 2016 Mazda3 iTouring made in Japan with about 77k miles. I'm getting close to replacing my brakes. I called my local dealership to get a quote and was told $595 per axle. He mentioned that they generally always replace rotors when they do brakes. I asked him for a quote without rotors and was told $270. He then said in a warning tone, if you do it without the rotors they're going to be noisy and they're going to get used up faster.

What do people think about this? Given I'll have around 80-85k miles and my car will be 5 years old in a couple of months should I just go ahead and replace the rotors?

Also, have people used www.onlinemazdaparts.com?
 

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I consider rotors as consumables. Better to just do the whole package at one time. Fronts are about $45 or so apiece, rears $40 or so. A full set of decent pads can had for under $200. $1200 for replacing your pads and rotors is highway robbery.
 

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What he's telling you to do is replace the rotors for $80+/each when you're not reporting any symptoms which would indicate bad rotors. You need to find a reputable indie shop who will resurface (turn) the discs for $25/ea to ensure proper bedding in of the new pads which they will probably charge you a whole lot less than $270 for!
 

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What he's telling you to do is replace the rotors for $80+/each when you're not reporting any symptoms which would indicate bad rotors. You need to find a reputable indie shop who will resurface (turn) the discs for $25/ea to ensure proper bedding in of the new pads which they will probably charge you a whole lot less than $270 for!
If the rotors are OEM and have 77k miles on them chances are they are worn enough to warrant replacement. Do it once, do it right....I'd rather pay a few dollars more for the new parts.
I can have all four wheels done in a couple hours. At that dealer you get $150 or so in parts and $450 in labor, per axle.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What he's telling you to do is replace the rotors for $80+/each when you're not reporting any symptoms which would indicate bad rotors. You need to find a reputable indie shop who will resurface (turn) the discs for $25/ea to ensure proper bedding in of the new pads which they will probably charge you a whole lot less than $270 for!
Thanks. I'm leaning towards replacing the rotors, just so I won't be in a cycle where the (resurfaced) rotors wear out before the new pads. I should save on labor from doing them at the same time. I don't think anyone would expect rotors to last 150,000 miles or 10 years, right?

Do non-OEM rotors/pads last as long as OEM?
 

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If the rotors are OEM and have 77k miles on them chances are they are worn enough to warrant replacement. Do it once, do it right....I'd rather pay a few dollars more for the new parts.
I can have all four wheels done in a couple hours. At that dealer you get $150 or so in parts and $450 in labor, per axle.....
With my experience so far, I'm thinking I should go OEM again for the rotors and pads. I'm seeing ~$80 per rotor and $70-80 for each pad set.
 

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Thanks. I'm leaning towards replacing the rotors, just so I won't be in a cycle where the (resurfaced) rotors wear out before the new pads. I should save on labor from doing them at the same time. I don't think anyone would expect rotors to last 150,000 miles or 10 years, right?

Do non-OEM rotors/pads last as long as OEM?
Only time I've ever replaced rotors in 50+ years of driving was on a '97 Dodge Dakota pickup on which Chrysler didn't have the sense to install "squeeler tabs" on the brake pads to signal when metal-to-metal contact was imminent. Oh, and then there was the time the dealer elected to replace front rotors on my wife's Z4 (under warranty) because they were slightly warped.
 

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Do non-OEM rotors/pads last as long as OEM?
Lots of variables there, depends on the quality of the rotors, pad material etc. No reason why decent replacements can't last as long as the OEM parts.
Don't forget, when buying OEM parts you usually end up paying OEM prices.
 

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Lots of variables there, depends on the quality of the rotors, pad material etc. No reason why decent replacements can't last as long as the OEM parts.
Don't forget, when buying OEM parts you usually end up paying OEM prices.
But you do pretty much know what you're getting and Mazda has always done a pretty good job of developing good pads for their cars. With aftermarket pads, it's pretty much a "pig in a poke".
 

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I have my brake pads and rotors change at my local Mavis. did this for CRV, CX5 and BMW X1 2016. Very Satisfied.BMW was most expensive. $500 plus for the front rotors and brake pads. If I remember it right that already costs the front and rear for my CX5. So when I need to replace my rotors and pads,,,,, it's my local MAVIS again for less than $500 for the front and rear.
 

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But you do pretty much know what you're getting and Mazda has always done a pretty good job of developing good pads for their cars. With aftermarket pads, it's pretty much a "pig in a poke".
Yeah, you are getting screwed......
Mazda didn't develop or build the brakes. Akebono is (or was) the supplier, the pads are made to Mazda design specs. There isn't anything special about them other than they fit the Mazda 3. Pad material isn't really any different from a better quality aftermarket part, and you can choose from different pad materials depending on what you want. CarQuest, NAPA, Wagner, Bendix, StopTech, Centric, etc, many good choices if you know what to look for. Just FYI Akebono ceramics are much less than $80 per set if you don't buy them from Mazda.
 

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You need to know the thickness of the rotors to make informed decision - otherwise is a guessing game. If I have to guess - at 80k I would replace the rotors, as I usually get about 100k out of the rotors (same class cars)- measuring the actual thickness. Sure you can stop the car with the minimum thickness or slightly below that, but I would not skim on brakes.
If you are happy with the OEM brakes - you can try to get them slightly cheaper online and have them installed at an independent mechanic to save a bit more.
I've used without problems some of the online sites for OEM parts - they are typically a OEM dealers who offer some discounts, but then the shipping cost is not competitive. Thus the saving is minimal at the end.
If you really need to save - DIY with good parts from rockauto cost me lees than 250 for pads and rotors all around on my 2016 Mazda 3 jap.
 

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Are these calipers of the design that requires a special tool to push/twist the piston back in the caliper? It seems that the old C-Clamp trick of pushing the caliper piston back in the housing has been replaced by the unique tool that twists the piston back in the housing. Was wondering. I know that the took kit is cheap. Thanks.
 

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Are these calipers of the design that requires a special tool to push/twist the piston back in the caliper? It seems that the old C-Clamp trick of pushing the caliper piston back in the housing has been replaced by the unique tool that twists the piston back in the housing. Was wondering. I know that the took kit is cheap. Thanks.
The rear brakes yes, you need the retractor tool to move the piston.
 

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So Google PowerPoint brakes/rotors. I own a Mazda 3 2015. For $120, you get 2 slotted rotors and ceramic pads! Never pay auto repair places pricing. My local mechanic charged me 1 hr of labor each axle to install.
 

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So Google PowerPoint brakes/rotors. I own a Mazda 3 2015. For $120, you get 2 slotted rotors and ceramic pads! Never pay auto repair places pricing. My local mechanic charged me 1 hr of labor each axle to install.
perhaps a typo, did you mean Powerstop?
 
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