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Pretty Cool Dude
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I tried both logins multiple times and still no luck.
Sometimes I have had phantom inputs so what I do is, once text is scrolling, I hold NAV+MUTE+BACK until the CMU resets and as soon as I see the login: prompt, I login (cmu, ENTER, jci, ENTER), and then copy/paste command. You shouldn't have wrong login unless you are on V70.00.367
 

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Sometimes I have had phantom inputs so what I do is, once text is scrolling, I hold NAV+MUTE+BACK until the CMU resets and as soon as I see the login: prompt, I login (cmu, ENTER, jci, ENTER), and then copy/paste command. You shouldn't have wrong login unless you are on V70.00.367
I did notice when entering the username it appeared as I typed, whereas the password wouldn't show up until I pressed enter after being prompted to input it. I tried typing it immediately as well as after hitting enter and neither worked. I'll try restarting the CMU though.
 

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Hi guys, just wanted to say that i received my new usb to ttl today and have successfully hacked my cmu and installed tweaks! Happy days, and thankyou so much for everyone who helped me and the people who created this ingenious method .

Cheers.
 

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in my opinion, ACC will not affect the LED blinking. They are totally different thing, unless you have a weak battery??
Turning on ACC will drain some load and current from battery.
Probably check on the battery volt or SOC.


When you switched RX with TX cables it was TX led that blinked. I believe the real connection is still in RX pin.
So it received RX signal from CMU, thus blinking.


Let me help you in troubleshooting. I might ask "stupid" questions but these are to ensure we are in the same page:
1. Your CP2102 get detected at device manager? You notice the device name and COM#?
below is mine PC detecting the CP2102.

View attachment 277400



2. Assume it has detected, Can you ensure TX and RX pins are in correct pins?
Try your best to make sure connect them well. The bare copper wire should insert at least 1 inch into the pin hole.
We will verify the connection later on.
View attachment 277398

3. You are connecting through this configuration page right?
  • select Serial
  • type in Serial line: COM4 ( based on my device manager )
  • type in Speed: 115200
  • Click Open
View attachment 277399



to be honest with you, at the very beginning, i was looking at here and wondering why nothing pop out.
Ignore if you not running into this page.
View attachment 277401


4. You may try what I mention above. Once you get the black console, do you see any flying text?
You may press and hold Enter, to let console append to new line. This is ensure command is sending via TX pin to CMU.
Thanks. I'll try to seat on it tomorrow again. Meantime I studied ID7 Recovery v2 again and have a question on sth I may have skipped previously. What is "update.up" file? Where do I get it from?
 

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Pretty Cool Dude
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Thanks. I'll try to seat on it tomorrow again. Meantime I studied ID7 Recovery v2 again and have a question on sth I may have skipped previously. What is "update.up" file? Where do I get it from?

That is where you can find the appropriate firmware
 

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to be clear before I start it over.
if it was a dealer service that upgraded my FW to 700.00.335. Which instruction do I follow
or
??

I didn't have any serial connection done before an upgrade.

In the link below I can find only 700.00.100 or 700.00.367 update files. there's no 700.00.335. Which should I use?
 

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A reminder to everyone who does take their cars into Mazda for servicing...install USB locks before taking your car into service if you don't want them messing up your tweaks & settings...and/or at least tell them not to update the firmware...but I wouldn't even trust that.
 

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Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! The new screen I bought included a CMU that was on v53.00.205 so I ended up just using that for the time being. Might continue to mess around with my old one to see if I can get the tweaks working on v70.
 

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Most probably not, as your FW version will be a FW 70.xxx.xxx and AIO AA does not work at any FW 70. And if you have a Mazda Original AA, this has WiFi disabled - so there is no need to enable WiFi in the car, if Mazda`s AA has it disabled.
 

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So, im updating to the newest software. Im new to all of this.
I saw where some of you did a hack for it. What does the hack do. . Btw. This car has the android auto retrofit already put in here. . Im curious though. Is there anyway to enable stuff like wifi or yo get more features?
 

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With FW 70.00.367 there is no way to install AIO Tweaks via USB from www.mazdatweaks.com. This version can not be enabled to install tweaks.

You could downgrade the FW to 70.00.335 or .354 and then do the serial access process ID7v2 - see so called thread for it and www.mazdatweaks.com/id7 (and as basic knwoledge www.mazdatweaks.com/serial). Afterwards you are able to install tweaks via usb.
 

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A reminder to everyone who does take their cars into Mazda for servicing...install USB locks before taking your car into service if you don't want them messing up your tweaks & settings...and/or at least tell them not to update the firmware...but I wouldn't even trust that.
I bought new/used radio which has FW 42.00.500 (which is too old for AIO:) ). I'll update it to the newest version which can be filled with AIO tweaks. Which one is that, is it a file with cmu150_EU_59.00.449A ?

The previous radio, which had FW 700.00.335 installed orginally by the service cannot be downgraded or tweaks cannot be intalled on it anymore, is that correct?
 

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1. Yes, any FW 55-59 below 59.00.502 can install AIO Tweaks via USB.

2. FW 70.00.335 can be downgraded, but not below 59.00.502. For 70.00.335 you can do the ID7v2 process (serial access): www.mazdatweaks.com/id7 to enable the installation of AIO Tweaks via USB. And for FW 59.00.502 - 70.00.100 you can do the ID7 serial access process: www.mazdatweaks.com/serial to enable the installation of AIO Tweaks via USB.
 

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Need help after trying to hack AIO twice but serial connection doesn't work, and possibly fried my laptop the second time. Have 2019 CX-5, FW 70.00.100. Purchased two different CP2102 boards, second one was that recommended on this site. Connected ground, RXD to 2S and TXD to 2T, and left all connections to head unit in place. Used both Putty and SecureCRT on correct COM port but all I see in terminal is a blinking cursor which does not respond to key strokes. Though the wires going into 2S and 2T aren't reaching headunit connections so exposed wires but same deal. After exposing, something happened to laptop and possibly fried motherboard, but will try with another laptop assuming can get some help. Really annoying that a headunit has potential to be more functional but manufacturer prevents it despite a concensus regarding its head unit being behind compared to competitors. Thanks
 

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Anyone in the Washington state area able to help with this? I have the TTL to serial tool but i cant get my mazda infotainment to read the Id7 autorun scipt. Thanks!
 
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