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ID7v2 is not included in AIO 2.8.6.

ID7v2 is not the successor or the better version of ID7. They have to be used for different FW versions. And ID7v2 has another process (see www.mazdatweaks.com/id7) than ID7 (see www.mazdatweaks.com/serial).
  • ID7v2 has to be used for FW 70.00.335 + 70.00.352 (ID7 does not work for them, as ALL tweaks incl. ID7 are deleted at the FW update)
  • ID7 has to be used for FW 59.00.502 up to/including 70.00.100 (ID7v2 process might work for them as well, but is too complicated in comparsion to ID7).
  • At the latest 70.00.367 NA (the only region available so far) the ID7v2 does not work. So there is no possibility to enable the installation of AIO tweaks via USB for this FW version so far. Consider this before updating to .367.
thanks for the info.

Yes, I do read about the new ID7v2 is still in discussion / debug stage. Appreciate those who are working on this.
My programming is not that good, but I am learning it. who knows one day i can be one of the contributors.

I am currently using 70.00.100, I did the ID7 already.
ok, i will take note on the .367 if there is any chance i need to upgrade to that version.
 

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There is no Japanese Firmware (JP M) like yours in the wild/available for us. So you are not able to do ID7v2. Unfortunately. You will not be able to install AIO Tweaks. Sorry.

Only way would be to install FW of another region and then do the ID7v2 process (but then other features might be missing).
And yes, even if you want to install 1 tweak, you have to install FW and do ID7v2 for enabling the possibility to install tweaks via usb (ID7v2).
What a pity.
Thanks for advise, Tristan-cx5!

So for the other region, EU N .352B should be similar version and tweak available in the market?

no JP FW, no turn back. got it.
I know I own the risk, but any known fact of risks should I accept before changing to other region?
Changing language is OK so far...

I wonder how can one get the update files... Insiders?
Probably there is no way to backup my original JP M and use it, right?
 

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ID7v2 works for .352 EU. See ID7v2 Thread and www.mazdatweaks.com/id7 for details.

I do not know what changes in detail, when switching to another region`s firmware - but search in the forum. This was asked a lot.

Correct, insiders. Inofficial downloadlink for .352 EU.

Correct, there is no way to backup your original JP M. So better be sure that you want to switch to another region`s firmware.
 

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@Tecasmouse : See ID7v2 Thread. ID7v2 does not seem to work at .367 NA anymore... if I understood you right, you are the third one with this behaviour at .367 NA. But for .335 it should work, if you do not update to .335. But you have to do the FW update and ant the end you have to paste the commands in putty... that you forgot to mention.

@maxx88 : To get a proper connection you could strip more wire & put it in deeper. Or you could use proper terminals - described here and in the following posts there.
I reconnected everything one more time and I'm sure it's well done now. But my CMU still doesn't respond with 'login'. actually it does not respond at all. TX is connected correctly, text flies by which I suppose means RX receives data correctly too. I think it may be my USB-RS232 TTL PL2303HX (full name of a model I bought) that doesn't work properly with TX (there are no LEDs od this serial, I cannot check it). Someone mentioned I can directly connect TX with RX and see if it echoed - what would that mean, how do I check if the serial is ok? my FW is .335
 

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Most probably it`s your adapter, which is not the correct one. You have to use a CP2102 - not a PL2303. When I began, I also bought and tried a PL2303 HX, which did not work. Now I have a CP2102 and everything works fine. Just buy a CP2102 Adapter, install its drivers and you should be fine.
 

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I reconnected everything one more time and I'm sure it's well done now. But my CMU still doesn't respond with 'login'. actually it does not respond at all. TX is connected correctly, text flies by which I suppose means RX receives data correctly too. I think it may be my USB-RS232 TTL PL2303HX (full name of a model I bought) that doesn't work properly with TX (there are no LEDs od this serial, I cannot check it). Someone mentioned I can directly connect TX with RX and see if it echoed - what would that mean, how do I check if the serial is ok? my FW is .335
I agreed with Tristan-cx5. You get the CP2102 and try again.

In fact, You may refer my story here, using your PL2303 HX. See if this help.
 

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I agreed with Tristan-cx5. You get the CP2102 and try again.

In fact, You may refer my story here, using your PL2303 HX. See if this help.
I got a new CP2102 today and have just tried it out...no progress :( even one step backward, because I have a black terminal window now and no text shows up. LEDs GND and RX lit (RX blinks, and it blinks faster when I turn the ACC). TX is off. When I switched RX with TX cables it was TX led that blinked.
I'm not a computer specialist...any tips?
 

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I got a new CP2102 today and have just tried it out...no progress :( even one step backward, because I have a black terminal window now and no text shows up. LEDs GND and RX lit (RX blinks, and it blinks faster when I turn the ACC). TX is off. When I switched RX with TX cables it was TX led that blinked.
I'm not a computer specialist...any tips?
in my opinion, ACC will not affect the LED blinking. They are totally different thing, unless you have a weak battery??
Turning on ACC will drain some load and current from battery.
Probably check on the battery volt or SOC.


When you switched RX with TX cables it was TX led that blinked. I believe the real connection is still in RX pin.
So it received RX signal from CMU, thus blinking.


Let me help you in troubleshooting. I might ask "stupid" questions but these are to ensure we are in the same page:
1. Your CP2102 get detected at device manager? You notice the device name and COM#?
below is mine PC detecting the CP2102.

277400




2. Assume it has detected, Can you ensure TX and RX pins are in correct pins?
Try your best to make sure connect them well. The bare copper wire should insert at least 1 inch into the pin hole.
We will verify the connection later on.
277398


3. You are connecting through this configuration page right?
  • select Serial
  • type in Serial line: COM4 ( based on my device manager )
  • type in Speed: 115200
  • Click Open
277399




to be honest with you, at the very beginning, i was looking at here and wondering why nothing pop out.
Ignore if you not running into this page.
277401



4. You may try what I mention above. Once you get the black console, do you see any flying text?
You may press and hold Enter, to let console append to new line. This is ensure command is sending via TX pin to CMU.
 

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Make sure your USB to TTL module is working by doing the serial configuration, as tomato said, then short together the RX and TX wires before connecting to the CMU, now, on the black terminal window of putty you should see everything you type on your keyboard, otherwise, your TTL module / configuration / driver is no working.
 

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@Tecasmouse : See ID7v2 Thread. ID7v2 does not seem to work at .367 NA anymore... if I understood you right, you are the third one with this behaviour at .367 NA. But for .335 it should work, if you do not update to .335. But you have to do the FW update and ant the end you have to paste the commands in putty... that you forgot to mention.

@maxx88 : To get a proper connection you could strip more wire & put it in deeper. Or you could use proper terminals - described here and in the following posts there.
Thanks for the heads up, Tristan-cx5. I successfully (and easily) downgraded from 70.00.367 to 70.00.100 using the widely available files and will begin again...
 

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If you want to enable the .100 for installing AIO Tweaks via USB, you have to do the standard ID7/Serial access: www.mazdatweaks.com/serial - and not the ID7v2. Just as reminder.
I am in!! Here are some details that will hopefully help someone else in the future:

After downgrading to .100, the known ids/passwords would still not work for ID7. I decided to reinstall .100 on top of my current .100 installation. While it was installing, I had full terminal access (without having to log in) and could issue the commands. I did it about 70% into the process. When installation was complete, I was left with a prompt (which I was not given when I previously upgraded to .367). I suppose I could have issued the commands then, but didn’t. I turned the car off and back to ACC with my serial cable still active. At this point, the default password did work! I ended up with the logo on my screen, but the terminal basically dumping error 104 messages. I forget the exact wording, but there were hundreds for a good 7 minutes. I decided to force a reboot (typing reboot during the messages--remember, I had access at this point). As soon as the system came up, I installed my tweaks usb, and it took within 30 seconds. I am now at .100 with tweaks.
 

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For some reason it keeps saying login inccorect after trying it at least 15 times. I know I entered every correctly.
 

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Downgraded from what firmware? May want to try cmu/jci
From 70.00.367A, I'll give the cmu/jci a try tomorrow morning.

Try reinstalling 59.00.502a again (just the main fw, not the failsafe) and see if that helps. That worked for me when I had identical issues with 70.00.100.
I already tried reinstalling it after reading your previous comment but didn't put too much effort into it. I'll try again tomorrow if Albuyeh's solution doesn't work.
 
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