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Still nothing is happening, I don't think the commands are getting through. I see all the text fly through like the matrix , i hit enter to login but nothing happens, i continue on entering user and jci and still nothing. I've made sure the cables are all the way in and have pulled them from the front side too.
 

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Still nothing is happening, I don't think the commands are getting through. I see all the text fly through like the matrix , i hit enter to login but nothing happens, i continue on entering user and jci and still nothing. I've made sure the cables are all the way in and have pulled them from the front side too.
In Putty, when you see the text scrolling, hold nav+mute+back. The system will reboot and the text will start off slow. If you repeatedly push a key (like 'x'), do you see the character show up in the terminal window before the text starts going fast?

If you do not see any characters it is because your TX isn't making contact. I've helped a lot of people with this process and a lot of people just had to push the TX a little further in.
 

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Password not working...
I have a never-touch 2019 CX-3, running 70.00.335. I have successfully connected the serial line and can send and receive with PuTTY. For whatever reason, it does not like the user/jci or cmu/jci login credentials. It keeps telling me "Login Incorrect." When I type the username, it looks as expected (not gibberish)--that is, I am seeing exactly what I am typing. Am I missing something??

Edit: As I think about this, let me back-up... I have a USB with the XX folder and the 367A_update.up file on it. I believe I need to put that USB in the car, connect and start PuTTY, then turn the car to ACC. Hopefully, that will install the XX files. and get me up and running. Before doing any of that, however, I am just trying to connect via PuTTY and the user/jci and cmu/jci are not working.
 

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In Putty, when you see the text scrolling, hold nav+mute+back. The system will reboot and the text will start off slow. If you repeatedly push a key (like 'x'), do you see the character show up in the terminal window before the text starts going fast?

If you do not see any characters it is because your TX isn't making contact. I've helped a lot of people with this process and a lot of people just had to push the TX a little further in.
hi, I have exactly the same problem as IZZY76 had. I can see the matrix, text flying fast, even faster when the car is on. I can also see "x" in my terminal window just as you suggested to test TX. But nothing shows up on my MZU when I press "enter". Nothing also happens when I paste the commands (starting with "user").

Any ideas what can go wrong? I guess I tried all possibilities including switching TX/RX wires. I'm using PuTTY
 

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@Tecasmouse : See ID7v2 Thread. ID7v2 does not seem to work at .367 NA anymore... if I understood you right, you are the third one with this behaviour at .367 NA. But for .335 it should work, if you do not update to .335. But you have to do the FW update and ant the end you have to paste the commands in putty... that you forgot to mention.

@maxx88 : To get a proper connection you could strip more wire & put it in deeper. Or you could use proper terminals - described here and in the following posts there.
 

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Ill try again tomorrow and see how I go, thanks guys.
Well I tried again and finally I got to and rx to light up but nothing was happening on putty just a black screen. I fiddled with the wire a bit more and just rx was flashing then soon after the usb to ttl converter stopped working , i think I fried it.
Will order another one and try again. I might have had a faulty converter because it shouldn't be this ridiculous hard.
 

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Well I tried again and finally I got to and rx to light up but nothing was happening on putty just a black screen. I fiddled with the wire a bit more and just rx was flashing then soon after the usb to ttl converter stopped working , i think I fried it.
Will order another one and try again. I might have had a faulty converter because it shouldn't be this ridiculous hard.
 

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It is sad to hear that. Let me share my story here.
I have faced the same issue. Luckily I bought 2 x CP2102. I always buy two units if the parts are cheap, to avoid this kind of problem ( save time as well )

I connect first CP2102, I can see the GND LED lights up. After 5 sec,it off.
I adjust the USB connector, it lights up again.
5 sec later, off again. Also I do not see any black window console pops out even after I select Serial on Putty.
Upon touching on the CP2102 chip, it is super hot. I would say, abnormal for such heat.


I changed to another CP2102, LED for GND and RX lights up and there is a black window console pop out after I select serial, key in "COM4" with 115200 baud rate.
The CP2102 has no significant heat at all while touched on.

I guess the easiest way to troubleshot if it is related to CP2102:
1. You should able to see it at Device manager. This is where I plug in the bare CP2102, without connecting to any pins. Just plug the USB into my laptop.
And I already see it. In fact, my CP2102 has GND LED, it lights up straight away.

277324

2. ( if your CP2102 has LED indicator ) check if the LED (GND, TX, RX ) lights up after connect to PC USB port. Make sure you have already connect TX RX and GND from CMU. Ignore the possibility the bad connection at CMU.
3. Access Putty or SecureCRT via Serial. If not black window console open up., this is bad CP2102.

Hope this helps in your troubleshooting.
 

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It is sad to hear that. Let me share my story here.
I have faced the same issue. Luckily I bought 2 x CP2102. I always buy two units if the parts are cheap, to avoid this kind of problem ( save time as well )

I connect first CP2102, I can see the GND LED lights up. After 5 sec,it off.
I adjust the USB connector, it lights up again.
5 sec later, off again. Also I do not see any black window console pops out even after I select Serial on Putty.
Upon touching on the CP2102 chip, it is super hot. I would say, abnormal for such heat.


I changed to another CP2102, LED for GND and RX lights up and there is a black window console pop out after I select serial, key in "COM4" with 115200 baud rate.
The CP2102 has no significant heat at all while touched on.

I guess the easiest way to troubleshot if it is related to CP2102:
1. You should able to see it at Device manager. This is where I plug in the bare CP2102, without connecting to any pins. Just plug the USB into my laptop.
And I already see it. In fact, my CP2102 has GND LED, it lights up straight away.

View attachment 277324
2. ( if your CP2102 has LED indicator ) check if the LED (GND, TX, RX ) lights up after connect to PC USB port. Make sure you have already connect TX RX and GND from CMU. Ignore the possibility the bad connection at CMU.
3. Access Putty or SecureCRT via Serial. If not black window console open up., this is bad CP2102.

Hope this helps in your troubleshooting.
Hi, yes I'm hoping it was a lemon of a cp2102, the TX led light never lit up for me even after I smashed in that wire all the way in, it was coming out of the screen lol.
I've ordered the exact same cp2102 that is linked on the aio thread. So fingers crossed.
Should arrive on the 25th of June as its from the US.
 

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Hi, yes I'm hoping it was a lemon of a cp2102, the TX led light never lit up for me even after I smashed in that wire all the way in, it was coming out of the screen lol.
I've ordered the exact same cp2102 that is linked on the aio thread. So fingers crossed.
Should arrive on the 25th of June as its from the US.
Did you connect the Tx and Rx directly and see the keytype is echoed back on your screen?
If it is not, the serial adapter is not working.

I also recall I had to manually install CP2101 driver, too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Has anyone bought a used cmu from the wreckers that has an earlier FW thats not locked. Would this be a simple plug and play or would there be other issues I would have to do?
 

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@ohiopple, post: 2489392
"Hi, not sure about the new ID7 v2 extra steps,
so just wanna make sure im going to do in right way for my FW v70.00.352".
  1. Make "AIOtweak USB" = yes on same usb with your upgrade/downgrade FW file(s). Use an (8gb-16gb usb fat32 windows format) and Copy XX folder from XX.zip to "AIO tweak USB" as well. All in one go.
  2. Connect wire to PC and car until end = yes make sure they make full contacts with cmu else will not work.
  3. Run Putty = yes
  4. Press on Acc button once. Do not start engine for fw upgrade/downgrade. Else u'll brick your cmu ($1000+ replacement).
  5. Insert "all in one USB" to car = yes and begin doing your FW upgrade/downgrade. Following guide to the T. Make sure your car battery is strong/charged. Fw takes approximately 45mins.
  6. Watch/monitor your laptop of fw text installation process from putty beginning to the end.
  7. Once fw completion text will stop scrolling (Do not reboot cmu) else u will miss the chance to install idv7 v2 and tweaks and have to resinstall fw again.
  8. Now Login by putty/Execute command for id7 v2.
  9. Once executed successfully reboot cmu.
  10. Insert "AIO tweak USB" to car = no just leave it in, tweaks will automatically run once cmu rebooted after 1min.
  11. Enjoy!
Hi, few more question.
Do I need full firmware file even though I don't want to upgarade/downgrade FW, only want to tweak like no more disclaimer?
Are they insufficient if USB has only file made by AIOtweak and XX.zip ?
If so, my FW seems v70.00.351 JP M, and could not find in Hidrive.
Can anyone suggest me where?
thanks,
 

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There is no Japanese Firmware (JP M) like yours in the wild/available for us. So you are not able to do ID7v2. Unfortunately. You will not be able to install AIO Tweaks. Sorry.

Only way would be to install FW of another region and then do the ID7v2 process (but then other features might be missing).
And yes, even if you want to install 1 tweak, you have to install FW and do ID7v2 for enabling the possibility to install tweaks via usb (ID7v2).
 

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Hi, yes I'm hoping it was a lemon of a cp2102, the TX led light never lit up for me even after I smashed in that wire all the way in, it was coming out of the screen lol.
I've ordered the exact same cp2102 that is linked on the aio thread. So fingers crossed.
Should arrive on the 25th of June as its from the US.
Haha!
Lightning never strikes the same place twice. Hope you can soon enjoy the tweak!

oh ya, one thing I learn from doing this serial connection.
Once you plug in TX RX GND pins, and USB into your PC. Start Putty and black window console pops out.

You may just hit enter and see if the CMU LOGIN gets to append to new line. since it is a blank entry, the system will loop again CMU Login.
this is to check if your TX is well connected.
Else you may take a look at the CP2102 TX LED, it should flash up while you press enter.

* you may also Press and hold the enter key. This will eventually "hang" the black console and you can easily tells it is working.
 

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There is no Japanese Firmware (JP M) like yours in the wild/available for us. So you are not able to do ID7v2. Unfortunately. You will not be able to install AIO Tweaks. Sorry.

Only way would be to install FW of another region and then do the ID7v2 process (but then other features might be missing).
And yes, even if you want to install 1 tweak, you have to install FW and do ID7v2 for enabling the possibility to install tweaks via usb (ID7v2).
Just wondering if the AIO 2.8.6 has the ID7v2 already?
I was running recovery and serial connection using AIO 2.8.6 compilation.
 

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Hi, few more question.
Do I need full firmware file even though I don't want to upgarade/downgrade FW, only want to tweak like no more disclaimer?
Are they insufficient if USB has only file made by AIOtweak and XX.zip ?
If so, my FW seems v70.00.351 JP M, and could not find in Hidrive.
Can anyone suggest me where?
thanks,
I read some of the instructions from Mazda , before starting FW upgrade, remove the MAP SD card as well.
So, you might need to follow this too.
 

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If you are able to see the text output scrolling then there is nothing wrong with the adapter. Make sure your TX is connected properly. A simple way to test if it is working is to hold NAV+MUTE to reset the CMU while your computer is connected. The Serial Console window will blank out and then you will see diagnostic messages of the CMU booting up again. You'll have a small window before the commands start flowing again. Hold down a single key on your laptop during this time when you are in the serial window to see if it is being sent.

Many people think because they do not see the output on the terminal window, that their commands are not being sent but most times they are.

Once text is scrolling past, don't even bother looking at the terminal window because it's just going to confuse you. Hold NAV+MUTE to reset CMU. Once it starts backup, just type in 'user' and push ENTER. Type 'jci' and push ENTER. Copy:

Code:
cp -r /tmp/mnt/sd*/XX/* /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/; chmod +x /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/autorun; ls -l /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin
and paste it into your terminal window and push enter (Ctrl+V most likely wont work for paste, in Putty you have to right click in the terminal window, don't forget to push enter :) )

Paste and enter that command a couple times if you want. Nothing bad will happen by running it more than once. If you did it right, you will see an output like:



which is the output of your /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin directory. If you see that, everything worked. Walk away from your car for a few minutes where your key is out of range, come back, plug in flashdrive to CMU that has the AIO tweaks, turn car on.

I cant even see this at all. I only able to see some green text flying by , probably 500msec?!
However, I assume it is done and proceed with USB tweak ( just a simply wallpaper change ), and my CMU detects it!
Of course, I have installed more tweaks later on. All works well.

what a relief.
 

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Just wondering if the AIO 2.8.6 has the ID7v2 already?
I was running recovery and serial connection using AIO 2.8.6 compilation.
ID7v2 is not included in AIO 2.8.6.

ID7v2 is not the successor or the better version of ID7. They have to be used for different FW versions. And ID7v2 has another process (see www.mazdatweaks.com/id7) than ID7 (see www.mazdatweaks.com/serial).
  • ID7v2 has to be used for FW 70.00.335 + 70.00.352 (ID7 does not work for them, as ALL tweaks incl. ID7 are deleted at the FW update)
  • ID7 has to be used for FW 59.00.502 up to/including 70.00.100 (ID7v2 process might work for them as well, but is too complicated in comparsion to ID7).
  • At the latest 70.00.367 NA (the only region available so far) the ID7v2 does not work. So there is no possibility to enable the installation of AIO tweaks via USB for this FW version so far. Consider this before updating to .367.
 
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