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Just thought I'd share this...

I've been having serious GPS issues with the built-in system. In a nutshell, at highway speeds, the gps system would suddenly think I am 50 yards or so to the left or right of my actual location. I took my car to the dealership to get the oil changed and mentioned this problem...well, without my permission, they updated the system and although I can no longer hack it easily, my GPS now works perfectly. C'est la vie.
 

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I have a 2014 3 it has a OEM nav package. Its running the 59.00.502 NA N version
the touch screen has been malfunctioning at stops and low speeds, it selects different options, attempts call people, but only at low speeds or stops.
It;s still OEM programing,
IF i attempt the the Serial to USB connection and run the AIO tweaks, would my problem be fixed, or would I need to sort out the issue first before attempting the new firmware/tweak?
It is likely that your LCD is malfunctioning and sending commands. It only sends commands when you are at a stop or slow but touch commands are blocked when you're driving fast right? There is a mod that disables the touch input completely which might help you. But you will have to enable mods by using a serial USB cable.
 

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My MAZDA car dealer update yesterday my CX-5 2016 in 59.00.502 EU N.

If i have not install ID7_recovery scripts, impossible to install new AIO tweaks on this version ? :/
 

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Pretty Cool Dude
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Just spent an hour and a half opening up the dash to get access to the headunit. I must say it wasn't as difficult as I expected BUT the most difficult part was running the commands. The screen was going by so fast I had no idea if my commands were running but after a lot of trial and error, it was finally able to work.

If anyone in the SF Bay Area is looking to have this done, let me know :)

I am also going to make a tutorial for people to do it since the tutorials I found were not too helpful.
 

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Just spent an hour and a half opening up the dash to get access to the headunit. I must say it wasn't as difficult as I expected BUT the most difficult part was running the commands. The screen was going by so fast I had no idea if my commands were running but after a lot of trial and error, it was finally able to work.

If anyone in the SF Bay Area is looking to have this done, let me know :)

I am also going to make a tutorial for people to do it since the tutorials I found were not too helpful.
I'm also in the Bay Area, and would love to get your input. Something I struggled with: ensuring that the wires made contact and were in the right sockets.

I ended up frying the USB com device, so I've ordered a few more and will have another go soon. Any advice, diagrams, etc would be immensely appreciated!
 

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So ive installed Android Auto and did the recovery usb files as well but Android Auto will not load when connected on my phone with USB cord and bluetooth. Im unsure why it wont start it just stays with a black screen under the Android Auto screen. So I also tried to uninstall all tweaks as I always get the AP WIFI PASSWORD ERROR upon startup and I will be taking the car to the dealer tomorrow. Can someone explain how to remove the AP WIFI PASSWORD ERROR everytime the car starts? Mazda will definitely know ive modified the files if they see that tomorrow.

Thanks!
 

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So ive installed Android Auto and did the recovery usb files as well but Android Auto will not load when connected on my phone with USB cord and bluetooth. Im unsure why it wont start it just stays with a black screen under the Android Auto screen. So I also tried to uninstall all tweaks as I always get the AP WIFI PASSWORD ERROR upon startup and I will be taking the car to the dealer tomorrow. Can someone explain how to remove the AP WIFI PASSWORD ERROR everytime the car starts? Mazda will definitely know ive modified the files if they see that tomorrow.

Thanks!
Please disregard this post as I figured it out. For anyone having this issue just reissue a new formatted usb and use AIO tweaks and do a recovery setup and change the wifi username and password as it prompts you. My issue was I was using a old usb with the old setup were you had to manually edit the file in notepad and I didnt do it correct the first time.
 

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Pretty Cool Dude
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It was still difficult to find a tutorial that had all the information and resources I needed so I decided to make one myself. The process is not as difficult as you may think it is but read the instructions thoroughly.

Parts/Equipment Needed:

  • [ame="https://www.amazon.com/ZYAMY-CP2102-Module-Serial-Downloader/dp/B07784SHF7"]USB to TTL Serial Adapter[/ame] - $6 (Most Serial USB-TTL Adapter will work, but CP2102 works for sure) Driver can be found
    . I like this module because it has LEDs when you are receiving or transmitting data
  • Single-Stranded/Solid-core insulated wire. I personally like [ame="https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78"]this[/ame] because you can daisy-chain them together without needing to do any soldering.
  • Flash Drive
  • 10mm socket wrench with extender/ratchet
  • Putty or SecureCRT
  • Mazda AIO Tweaks

Preparation:

Flash Drive
  1. Format drive to FAT32
  2. Create folder called ‘XX’
  3. Add contents of following archive to folder ‘XX’
  4. If you want to have car create its own Wifi Access Point, configure the `XX/00-start-wifiAP/wifiAP.config`file. Otherwise, delete the 00-start-wifiAP folder
  5. Use AIO app to also install selected tweaks on the same flash drive.

Process:

Accessing the CMU (Watch this video to see how its done)
  1. Open glove box
  2. Pull the trim. You will need to use more force than you expect. The front fan area is attached to the trim and will come off as well.
  3. Disconnect the hazard light connector cable
  4. Use the 10mm socket wrench to remove the bolt
  5. The headunit will slide out towards you

Wiring the CMU
  1. You will need to have 3 wires connected to the CMU: Transmit (TX), Receive (RX), and Ground (GND)
  2. Here is a picture of the back of the CMU. We are going to be adding our cables to the ‘power&more’ connector.
  3. Here is a more detailed picture of where the RX and TX cables go. Be sure that the cable is going into the port. It must go in about an inch. The GND cable can go anywhere so long as it is touching the CMU. I recommend slightly unscrewing one of the Philips head screws and wedging the cable in there.
  4. Connect the other end of the wires to the CP2102 module in its corresponding port.

Serial Console App
  1. Windows will auto-assign a COM Port to the CP2102 module once its plugged in. Go to Device Manager > Ports (COM & LPT) to see what the COM Port # is
    -For SecureCRT, under Options > Connection > Serial, set Port = COM#, Baud = 115200, Data Bits = 8, Parity = None, Stop Bits = 1
    -For Putty, you just need to select ‘Serial’ and then enter the COM Port # and set Baud to 115200
  2. You should start see text scroll by even if the car is off
  3. Plug in flash drive into CMU
  4. Turn the car to ACC mode by just pressing the On button without putting your foot on brake to fully turn car on
  5. Now you are really going to be seeing text fly by.
  6. Press Enter in terminal and CMU will respond with ‘login’. For the next several steps make sure you do not make any spelling mistakes. It is probably best to copy and paste the commands (to paste you just need to right click in the terminal window). It will seem like your commands are not being sent to the Mazda but don’t worry they are (provided your wiring is right)
  7. Reboot Mazda CMU by holding the Nav + Mute button for 10+ seconds.
  8. Input user and push Enter
  9. Input jci and push Enter
  10. (Optional) Test if serial commands work by running reboot.
  11. Run cp -r /tmp/mnt/sd?/XX/* /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/; chmod +x /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/autorun
  12. To test if the files have been moved to the folder, run ls -l /tmp/mnt/data_persist/dev/bin. The files/folders should be colored in green/blue since they are folders/executable. Here is a picture of what the output would look like. You may have to run this a few times to see the Serial Console output.
  13. Remove flash drive, turn off car, insert flash drive that has AIO tweaks installed, turn car on back in ACC mode
  14. After a few minutes, you should see a screen like this to indicate the mods are being installed. This process may take a bit of time. I would recommend doing a JCI Backup first (option under AIO Tweaks App) just in case you mess something up.

Finishing Up
  1. Now that everything is installed you can put everything back together
  2. Remove the TX, RX, GND wires
  3. Slide CMU back in
  4. Attach bolt using 10mm socket wrench
  5. Connect hazard light connector cable to trim
  6. Push trim back in


Let me know if any clarification is needed.
 

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Wiring the CMU
  1. You will need to have 3 wires connected to the CMU: Transmit (TX), Receive (RX), and Ground (GND)
  2. Here is a picture of the back of the CMU. We are going to be adding our cables to the ‘power&more’ connector.
  3. Here is a more detailed picture of where the RX and TX cables go. Be sure that the cable is going into the port. It must go in about an inch. The GND cable can go anywhere so long as it is touching the CMU. I recommend slightly unscrewing one of the Philips head screws and wedging the cable in there.
  4. Connect the other end of the wires to the CP2102 module in its corresponding port.

Let me know if any clarification is needed.

Thanks for the great write-up! Could I get you to provide any more info on how you connected the 2 wires and kept them in there?

It may be worth creating a thread around this tutorial post of yours to help people who are just starting off. Subject to whatever rules this forum has.
 

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Pretty Cool Dude
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333 Posts
Thanks for the great write-up! Could I get you to provide any more info on how you connected the 2 wires and kept them in there?

It may be worth creating a thread around this tutorial post of yours to help people who are just starting off. Subject to whatever rules this forum has.
The wires I linked to from Amazon are just barely the right enough length. You will definitely know when it is in because the cable will go in a little further. It would also be best to pull the black tabs off the ends of the wire because that is a perfect fit.
 
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