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Hi guys, I just bought 2017 Mazda 3. It has FW ver 70.00.352. It did not come with navigation installed but it does have a navigation button.

I started reading about AIO, AA, and Navigation SD Card and I'm being overwhelmed with all the stuff I'm finding.
My questions to you:
  • If I by ~$30+ Nav SD Card will it work with my FW version? Is it as simple as just plugging SD card into the SD slot?
  • Another option is to get Android Audio but to do that, I read that I need to replace USB port with a new one. Why is this necessary and is there a post showing software installation steps after USB is replaced?
  • AIO requires access to TX/RX (UART lines am assuming here) to be able to install AIO which would give me options to do additional tweaks if I want to. How reliable this software is?
In the end, out of these 3 options which one is the best, what did you guys do?
@staticxx

1st option "easy" mode for beginners : $30? sd_nav no live traffic update. Use mzd toolbox software to update maps. Renew+$ after every 3 years.

2nd "intermediate" mode: since your version is fw70+ just upgrade old usb hub to a new usb hub buy from ebay etc $150-$200 and use official mazda AA/CP by removing trim..etc just youtube plenty of step by step videos or you can paid dealer install ~$500 (no HUD turn by turn and no touch for AA, no wireless)

3rd "advance" mode: keep and use old usb hub. Must Downgrade to fw59.00.502+ HiDrive for stability fw70+ will have issues (aio AA no sound/black screen, lags). Make serial input connections rx/tx usb uart Serial Connection to smart phone or laptop install idv7 install AIO AA or AA V1.14b Tru_go (Fw55-59_HD). *Fw70 supported! with...
and other tweaks: full touch function, speedometer, video player etc. HUD for Google/waze map turn by turn. Wireless AA. (No apple carplay). Reliable? Works flawlessly no issues.
 

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By the way does anyone know if installing "Android Auto for phone screens" is necessary when running Android 10 (Samsung Note 9) with this new USB Hub. From what I can tell it doesn't seem necessary but given the current conditions I'm rarely driving so I've not had any chance to use it or really test much af AA, etc.
You only need this if you want to use AA on the phone independent from a car screen. E.g. on a Motorbike.

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@staticxx

1st option "easy" mode for beginners : $30? sd_nav no live traffic update. Use mzd toolbox software to update maps. Renew+$ after every 3 years.

2nd "intermediate" mode: since your version is fw70+ just upgrade old usb hub to a new usb hub buy from ebay etc $150-$200 and use official mazda AA/CP by removing trim..etc just youtube plenty of step by step videos or you can paid dealer install ~$500 (no HUD turn by turn and no touch for AA, no wireless)

3rd "advance" mode: Since you have an old usb hub. Downgrade to fw59.00.502+ HiDrive , serial input connect rx/tx usb uart Serial Connection to smart phone or laptop install idv7 install AIO AA or AA V1.14b Tru_go (Fw55-59_HD). *Fw70 supported! with...
and touch tweaks, speedometer, video player etc. HUD for Google/waze map turn by turn. Wireless AA. (No apple carplay). Reliable? Works flawlessly no issues.
For 3rd option, is it possible to stay on fw ver 70.00.352 and not upgrade to new usb hub, but still be able to install AIO + AA using serial tx/rx lines? Would AA work with old usb hub?
 

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Or try to uninstall just this tweak via AIO 2.8.6 two times:
  • one time with ticked install option "apps to resources"
  • one time without that
Then install the tweak with ticked install option (top left in AIO): apps to resources.

Just a try... before you have to reinstall the FW.
Gave this a go. Sadly didn't fix the problem. Sigh, I guess I'll try updating the firmware and getting serial access again...
 

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hi @Trezdog44 , I was installed Android Auto version 1.0 long time ago version of car is 59.00.504, and now I want to update AA version 1.3 but when insert usb to my car, It seem nothing happen. I use serial cable to check it still have root privileged. Do you have any suggest for me. Thanks.
 

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For the last several months my wife and I have been experiencing random disconnects/reconnects while using Android Auto (via Mazda tweaks). We both have Pixels (3a and 2XL). Android auto disconnects and then immediately reconnects and repeats etc. Have tried other cables, both USB ports etc. Have also tried disabling battery optimization in the settings of the Android Auto app.

Any idea how to fix this?

Would upgrading Android Auto/MazdaTweaks version help? I have 2.7.9 or 2.8.0

FWIW the Mazda firmware version is 55.00.753. Is it worth updating firmware?

Thanks!
I've been having the exact same problem on my Mazda CX-5 with AIO, however my Pixel 3 works fine for my wife's VW with an official AA.

Let me know how you make out, I may try updating my Mazda firmware to see if that helps.
 

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I have a question. Back in 2.8.3, I could use end call button on steer wheel to go back to mazda info to change radio stations. It seems 2.8.6 removed this feature? Am I missing something here?
 

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Hey there,
Just want to confirm, do the id7 recovery scripts still work after a downgrade? My dealer updated my FW to v70.00.100 (which doesn't kill the id7 recovery scripts, unlike .335), and I was previously on v56 (where I had installed the id7 recovery scripts). Or will I have to do the serial connection tweak after downgrading at v59.00.502?

Am thinking of downgrading to v59 to install AA, as I don't want to pay for the updated hardware either...
 

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Hey there,
Just want to confirm, do the id7 recovery scripts still work after a downgrade? My dealer updated my FW to v70.00.100 (which doesn't kill the id7 recovery scripts, unlike .335), and I was previously on v56 (where I had installed the id7 recovery scripts). Or will I have to do the serial connection tweak after downgrading at v59.00.502?

Am thinking of downgrading to v59 to install AA, as I don't want to pay for the updated hardware either...
Before .335 id7 will not be deleted. I did the exact same downgrade but chose .545 instead of .502. Everything incl AiO-AA worked without problems
 

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And I just did a downgrade from 70.00.335 ADR (ID7v2 was installed) to 59.00.502 EU and afterwards the installation of tweaks via USB was still possible.
 

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Successfully downgraded from v70.00.100 (ADR) to v59.00.502 (ADR).

For future reference for anyone following:
Followed the reverse order (1st Reinstallation package, then 2nd install Fail-Safe). Shat a brick because after the installation of the reinstallation package (which is done 1st during downgrading), the CMU doesn't give you the option of going back to install the Fail-Safe. So I restarted the MZD CMU (without ever turning the engine on) and then proceeded to install the Fail-Safe.
 

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I have AIO installed on my system , is there a way in which I can keep the last app used to be still there after I start system up again. As it is now when ever I start the system the Main screen comes on and I have to go APPs to let say choose "Speedometer". I want Speedometer to continue to be the screen apon bootup until I change it out.
 

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Okay, I followed the ID7v2 via serial process to a T. I will say I wish it had some other details that seem to be missing (caveats for example). In any case I got the the CMU unit pulled out and connected to the laptop. Followed the process. This was simply upgrading to what was already installed (.352B). It's clear when it's done as it asks to restart and this is when it's critical to paste "cp -r /mnt/sd*/XX/* /mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/; chmod +x /mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/autorun; /mnt/data_persist/dev/bin/autorun" command. But this fails. No error messages to ignore either. I also attempted "the test to verify" but no go which makes sense if the previous hadn't worked. I tried the AIO Tweaks via USB after just to be sure. It does see the USB device connected but doesn't proceed with loading/installing any tweaks. Not sure what went wrong. Bummed after all of that! Any ideas??
 

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Hi Guys,

How can I configure the new speedometer to use kph instead of mph please ?
Did you change the setting on the multi controller function?
If not, you should be able to switch by “up” (not “hold-up”) between kph and mph.

I made the default kph. See attached.



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Did you change the setting on the multi controller function?
If not, you should be able to switch by “up” (not “hold-up”) between kph and mph.

I made the default kph. See attached.



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ok thanks did pay attention to this feature, I'll make sure to check it out.

and after that I have to reinstall in the car after uninstall it right ?
 

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@SBMongoos : Have you tested/tried the serial access before the FW update? Did it work? Could you login (so did seeing text and entering user/password work)? My assumption is, that it did not and thats why you could not insert the copied commands. Perhaps your Adapter is broken or your cables are not stripped enough to have a connection to the CMU. Check that and retry.
 

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@kekane : Correct, after you change something in AIO at your PC/laptop and want it to work in the car, of course you have to install this tweak again into your car... there is no other way, the changes might magically happen at the car.
 
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