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Correct, with your FW version, the only thing you need to concern with is AIO 2.8.6 from mazdatweaks right, if you don't plan on ever updating the head unit to anything higher.
I do not know about the glitch with bluetooth calling - that has to answer someone else.
Chances of you bricking the head unit are given, if you do not follow the instructions at a Firmware Update or install too many tweaks and do not read the AIO instructions. I would recommend to install only a few tweaks and to tick the install option "aps to resources" (top left in AIO).
 

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ghost touch: it's really obvious when it's bad. The display screen starts just reacting on it's own. Usually if you are sittting still and if strong sunlight is hitting the opposite side of the screen housing. It has something to do with layers separating and moisture condensation, I think. I'm kind of pissed that the dealer won't even acknowledge there's a warranty extension from mazda usa. But I used the nots.mazdatweaks.win toggling tweak to disable the touchscreen input.

My car is an R53 MINI still mostly stock. More fun to drive, but it doesn't have the safety features or the hackable entertainment system....
 

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Correct, with your FW version, the only thing you need to concern with is AIO 2.8.6 from mazdatweaks right, if you don't plan on ever updating the head unit to anything higher.
I do not know about the glitch with bluetooth calling - that has to answer someone else.
Chances of you bricking the head unit are given, if you do not follow the instructions at a Firmware Update or install too many tweaks and do not read the AIO instructions. I would recommend to install only a few tweaks and to tick the install option "aps to resources" (top left in AIO).
I might have to hold off on this. Doesn't seem like the risk is worth it for AA right now. I usually use my phone with the stand.
 

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ghost touch: it's really obvious when it's bad. The display screen starts just reacting on it's own. Usually if you are sittting still and if strong sunlight is hitting the opposite side of the screen housing. It has something to do with layers separating and moisture condensation, I think. I'm kind of pissed that the dealer won't even acknowledge there's a warranty extension from mazda usa. But I used the nots.mazdatweaks.win toggling tweak to disable the touchscreen input.

My car is an R53 MINI still mostly stock. More fun to drive, but it doesn't have the safety features or the hackable entertainment system....
Yikes, i hope that doesn't start happening to mine! I always imagined that all these new cars with infotainment screens wouldn't fair too well being directly under the punishing sunlight.
 

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hello everyone,
Just bought a Mazda 3 2015. Did a factory reset not knowing at the time that it shouldn't be done if there's tweeks installed. Now screnn on MAZDA logo and some radio station playing.
From searching the forum and reading a lot off posts, I tried a couple of things.
( tweaks that were installed speedometer compass, android auto, fuel tweak) --" that's what I remember"
version is MAZ_CMU-150_55.00.753

1.Can't AIO uninstall or install. doesn't run
2. xx file directory copy over serial TTL and USB ( not sure if it's for my version)
and a couple of other things.
I would appreciate it if someone let know how to fix it or point me in the right direction.


update: Recovered

Thank you guys
 

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For the last several months my wife and I have been experiencing random disconnects/reconnects while using Android Auto (via Mazda tweaks). We both have Pixels (3a and 2XL). Android auto disconnects and then immediately reconnects and repeats etc. Have tried other cables, both USB ports etc. Have also tried disabling battery optimization in the settings of the Android Auto app.

Any idea how to fix this?

Would upgrading Android Auto/MazdaTweaks version help? I have 2.7.9 or 2.8.0

FWIW the Mazda firmware version is 55.00.753. Is it worth updating firmware?

Thanks!
 

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@loheiman : Every newer version fixes bugs. So updating both would be an option. If I were you, I would try AA from AIO 2.8.6 first. If thats not fixing the bug, then I would install ID7/Autorun-Tweak from AIO to your FW 55; then upgrade to FW 59.00.545 NA; then install AA from AIO 2.8.6.
 

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@majeedo :
3 Alternatives:
  • Have you tried to do blind what is shown in this video (factory reset)?
  • Open this link with Google Chrome (it comes with AutoTranslate) and follow these steps and try the commands mentioned at the end there via serial access (www.mazdatweaks.com/serial). Here is a copy of them:
    Code:
    echo 1 > /sys/class/gpio/Watchdog\ Disable/value
    mount -o rw,remount /
    cp -a /jci/sm/sm.conf.org /jci/sm/sm.conf
  • Or try this script mentioned here in the post
Perhaps one of these steps helps you. I hope so. Please get back afterwards.
 

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Good morning, sir,

A short summary of the installation of AIO Tweaks on my Mazda 3 of 2017. The goal for me was to install Android Auto.

My CMU was in firmware 70.00.335 EU N. so not compatible with AA. So I downgrade my CMU to EU_59.00.545A. The downgrade went very well but the serial access doesn't work, incorrect login each time. I thought that I might have kept the serial security of version 70. So I try to reinstall the v59 but by not rebooting at the end of the installation, bingo it worked, I have the hand on my CMU. I was able to copy the scripts, reboot and insert my USB key containing the tweaks. I now have Android Auto in my car! Thank you for the help I found all over the forum!
 

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I'm not clear on how you pulled this off (the steps exactly). I have 70.00.352 with the new hub. Based on your notes here it sounds like it would be worth a try downgrading to 70.00.100 and do the same thing. I had installed the IDv7 when I had v59.
 

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I'm not clear on how you pulled this off (the steps exactly). I have 70.00.352 with the new hub. Based on your notes here it sounds like it would be worth a try downgrading to 70.00.100 and do the same thing. I had installed the IDv7 when I had v59.
If you have the new hub, stay in version 70, Android Auto is available on this firmware version. You want to have Android Auto or other tweaks available with AIO Tweaks ?
 

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@SBMongoos : No, there is no advantage in downgrading from .352 to .100. Once you were at .352 you also need to do the ID7v2 (serial access at the end of the FW update), after you downgraded to .100. If you want to use AIO Tweaks and official Android Auto (.352 with new usb hub), you will have to re-install .352 (over your .352) and do the serial access ID7v2 at the end of the FW update.
 

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Understood Tristan. Thanks..and for being patient. I'll need to go back to the instructions again as after looking at a couple of links the instructions aren't quite clear to me how to do this when connecting the laptop. I did pick up a couple of the USB devices to use between the laptop (driver installed and Win 10 sees it) and the head unit. But I'm very careful when doing first attempts. Hoping to get this done this weekend.

I believe you said it wouldn't be possible to use the new USB Hub AA wirelessly with AIO Tweaks, correct? I would need a new Mazda F/W update that incorporated that ability?
 

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I may have said, that the official AA, which is enabled by the new USB Hub (+cables) at FW 70, does not support WiFi. Reason is, that Mazda deactivated WiFi for AA/CP (for all regions worldwide). Correct.

The MZD`s NA (north american region) firmware does not support WiFi at all from a certain FW onwards (EU and ADR firmware still support WiFi). So to enable WiFi at the NA firmware, you would need to install the AIO Tweak "Enable WiFi". But even then you can not use WiFi for the original Mazda AA/CP, as it is still disabled in AA/CP. But then you could use WiFi for other things (e.g. SSH access to the MZD for changing files).
 

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By the way does anyone know if installing "Android Auto for phone screens" is necessary when running Android 10 (Samsung Note 9) with this new USB Hub. From what I can tell it doesn't seem necessary but given the current conditions I'm rarely driving so I've not had any chance to use it or really test much af AA, etc.
 

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Hi guys, I just bought 2017 Mazda 3. It has FW ver 70.00.352. It did not come with navigation installed but it does have a navigation button.

I started reading about AIO, AA, and Navigation SD Card and I'm being overwhelmed with all the stuff I'm finding.
My questions to you:
  • If I by ~$30+ Nav SD Card will it work with my FW version? Is it as simple as just plugging SD card into the SD slot?
  • Another option is to get Android Audio but to do that, I read that I need to replace USB port with a new one. Why is this necessary and is there a post showing software installation steps after USB is replaced?
  • AIO requires access to TX/RX (UART lines am assuming here) to be able to install AIO which would give me options to do additional tweaks if I want to. How reliable this software is?
In the end, out of these 3 options which one is the best, what did you guys do?
 
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