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Just wanted to let you know I have the preferred plus (without Bose) into which I successfully installed a Subwoofer. I used a spare-tire subwoofer from Rockville, which has a LOC and Amp built into it. I ended up looking up the wiring diagrams for the Audio amplifier on Mazda's service manual, and found the high-level outputs for the left and right Cowl woofers (I have a copy of the diagram for wiring of all speakers; they're color coded so you know which wires to strip). I tapped into the wires in the speaker cable harness right by the amplifier (under the passenger seat), and tucked the spliced wires into the stock speaker wiring harness. I ran power by using an interior fuse tap, which is the fusebox by the driver's dead pedal (My LOC and subwoofer has auto shutoff so it turns off when the stock amplifier does), and ran it by the wiring harnesses in the doorsills. Everything in my car looks stock, and there are no visible cables for both power and audio.
hiya, possible to share the wiring diagram you have discovered? really appreciate that
 

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Just wanted to let you know I have the preferred plus (without Bose) into which I successfully installed a Subwoofer. I used a spare-tire subwoofer from Rockville, which has a LOC and Amp built into it. I ended up looking up the wiring diagrams for the Audio amplifier on Mazda's service manual, and found the high-level outputs for the left and right Cowl woofers (I have a copy of the diagram for wiring of all speakers; they're color coded so you know which wires to strip). I tapped into the wires in the speaker cable harness right by the amplifier (under the passenger seat), and tucked the spliced wires into the stock speaker wiring harness. I ran power by using an interior fuse tap, which is the fusebox by the driver's dead pedal (My LOC and subwoofer has auto shutoff so it turns off when the stock amplifier does), and ran it by the wiring harnesses in the doorsills. Everything in my car looks stock, and there are no visible cables for both power and audio.
Hey there, where did you find the service manual? I cant find it online and Ive really been needing to look at the stereo system specs.
I have a 2021 hatchback Select trim, non Bose.
Please help! :)
 

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Hey there, where did you find the service manual? I cant find it online and Ive really been needing to look at the stereo system specs.
I have a 2021 hatchback Select trim, non Bose.
Please help! :)
I highly doubt Mazda made both an unamplified and amplified TAU, so theres got to be an amp, just not a Bose amp and the input to that is gonna be a clean 20-20 signal like the Bose cars. Dont posture, dont guess and dont use an LOC when not needed.
Hey there, I have a 2021 Hatchback Select non Bose and am about to receive a sub/box/amp system and I thought I haad to get an LOC?
 

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2019 Mazda 3 Hatchback Select
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I’m also trying to install an aftermarket amp in my 2019 hatchback non Bose. I’ve already installed some Kicker 2.75” mids in all 4 doors plus some Infinity tweeters in the front. I bought this Infinity 4 channel amplifier as well because I wanted some more power coming out of those speakers. My question is if it’s possible to be able to use the factory speaker wires instead of running some new ones to all 4 doors, because running new ones through the boot on each door seems difficult. Can I just tap into the speaker wires on the factory amp and get my connections that way? Any help on how to wire up my amp would be appreciated. I already have the power, ground and remote wires taken care of.
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I’m also trying to install an aftermarket amp in my 2019 hatchback non Bose. I’ve already installed some Kicker 2.75” mids in all 4 doors plus some Infinity tweeters in the front. I bought this Infinity 4 channel amplifier as well because I wanted some more power coming out of those speakers. My question is if it’s possible to be able to use the factory speaker wires instead of running some new ones to all 4 doors, because running new ones through the boot on each door seems difficult. Can I just tap into the speaker wires on the factory amp and get my connections that way? Any help on how to wire up my amp would be appreciated. I already have the power, ground and remote wires taken care of. View attachment 284665
View attachment 284664
I think @elan was able to do it on a non-Bose.

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I think @elan was able to do it on a non-Bose.

My amp is only powering my sub, so I didn't mess around with any of the other speaker wires. I'm thinking you could use the existing wires, but you would have to cut up the existing harness to do so unless you can find some plugs to make a harness that plugs in between the factory harness and the amp. You'd also want to make sure you pick the correct speaker wires to pull the amp inputs off of. I used the cowl speakers because they were made to play the lower frequencies, but I have no idea if they play full range, or if they're low pass crossed over. Same goes with the door speakers, if they're high pass crossed over, that will be bad for your amp as well since it won't be receiving the lower frequencies.

There might be some others on here who have done this, and can provide a better answer. To sum it all up, I'm just not sure if any of the speakers coming out of the amplifier are crossed over.
 

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My amp is only powering my sub, so I didn't mess around with any of the other speaker wires. I'm thinking you could use the existing wires, but you would have to cut up the existing harness to do so unless you can find some plugs to make a harness that plugs in between the factory harness and the amp. You'd also want to make sure you pick the correct speaker wires to pull the amp inputs off of. I used the cowl speakers because they were made to play the lower frequencies, but I have no idea if they play full range, or if they're low pass crossed over. Same goes with the door speakers, if they're high pass crossed over, that will be bad for your amp as well since it won't be receiving the lower frequencies.

There might be some others on here who have done this, and can provide a better answer. To sum it all up, I'm just not sure if any of the speakers coming out of the amplifier are crossed over.
I figured that it was only powering your sub, thanks for the info though! Probably gonna do a little bit more research about which wires to splice into, and will probably try to run new speaker wire to each door as well.
 

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I’m also trying to install an aftermarket amp in my 2019 hatchback non Bose. I’ve already installed some Kicker 2.75” mids in all 4 doors plus some Infinity tweeters in the front. I bought this Infinity 4 channel amplifier as well because I wanted some more power coming out of those speakers. My question is if it’s possible to be able to use the factory speaker wires instead of running some new ones to all 4 doors, because running new ones through the boot on each door seems difficult. Can I just tap into the speaker wires on the factory amp and get my connections that way? Any help on how to wire up my amp would be appreciated. I already have the power, ground and remote wires taken care of. View attachment 284665
View attachment 284664
Does the rockville sub fit perfectly on top of the spare tire? Is it flush after placing the trunk liner back on top of the spare tire area? Been looking at this and the jbl spare tire sub as well
I am thinking I will be. It may be a few weeks, I like to haggle and get a good price on my vehicle. I will take plenty of pictures of the disassembly process and upgrade. From what little I can gather these vehicles have a mix of 3.5" and 4" speakers, damn that is small. I guess on a positive note they are a lot cheaper for each set but there are so few options compared to a standard 6.5" speaker.
Did you read about the non BOSE stereo system in your car? The Harmonic Acoustic System.
Believe it or not, they actually recommend that we DO NOT upgrade speakers cos they put a ton of R&D into the Harmonic Acoustics system and the speakers are designed especially for the car by Pioneer.
 

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Just wanted to let you know I have the preferred plus (without Bose) into which I successfully installed a Subwoofer. I used a spare-tire subwoofer from Rockville, which has a LOC and Amp built into it. I ended up looking up the wiring diagrams for the Audio amplifier on Mazda's service manual, and found the high-level outputs for the left and right Cowl woofers (I have a copy of the diagram for wiring of all speakers; they're color coded so you know which wires to strip). I tapped into the wires in the speaker cable harness right by the amplifier (under the passenger seat), and tucked the spliced wires into the stock speaker wiring harness. I ran power by using an interior fuse tap, which is the fusebox by the driver's dead pedal (My LOC and subwoofer has auto shutoff so it turns off when the stock amplifier does), and ran it by the wiring harnesses in the doorsills. Everything in my car looks stock, and there are no visible cables for both power and audio.
Hello, I have a 2021 Select Hatchback no BOSE and Im having a hard time with the power wire.
Im sorry but could you explain how you got power to your amp/sub?
 

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Kinda depends on your amp. If it has a line/speaker level input, then you can try skipping the LOC.
I had to get one. Thanks. But now Im still trying to get the power to the battery. I took the battery out and then theres two modular things connected anbd blockling and one could not be removed unless I removed part of the long part near trhe wipers...got any advice?
 

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Just wanted to let you know I have the preferred plus (without Bose) into which I successfully installed a Subwoofer. I used a spare-tire subwoofer from Rockville, which has a LOC and Amp built into it. I ended up looking up the wiring diagrams for the Audio amplifier on Mazda's service manual, and found the high-level outputs for the left and right Cowl woofers (I have a copy of the diagram for wiring of all speakers; they're color coded so you know which wires to strip). I tapped into the wires in the speaker cable harness right by the amplifier (under the passenger seat), and tucked the spliced wires into the stock speaker wiring harness. I ran power by using an interior fuse tap, which is the fusebox by the driver's dead pedal (My LOC and subwoofer has auto shutoff so it turns off when the stock amplifier does), and ran it by the wiring harnesses in the doorsills. Everything in my car looks stock, and there are no visible cables for both power and audio.
Oh And hey, you said you ran power by tapping into the fuse box.Youre not powering your amplifier/sub from the fuse box right?
 

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Hello, I have a 2021 Select Hatchback no BOSE and Im having a hard time with the power wire.
Im sorry but could you explain how you got power to your amp/sub?
It was a pain, but I was able to route my 8 gauge through the rubber grommet where the main harness comes into the car on the left hand side. There's a nipple on there that I cut off and fed the wire through. I did it w/o removing the battery and box, but I have small hands, and cut them up pretty well :p You'd be much better off removing the battery and box for more room.
 

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It was a pain, but I was able to route my 8 gauge through the rubber grommet where the main harness comes into the car on the left hand side. There's a nipple on there that I cut off and fed the wire through. I did it w/o removing the battery and box, but I have small hands, and cut them up pretty well :p You'd be much better off removing the battery and box for more room.
Yeah I had read that and tried it but there are a couple things in the way that plug into something behind it but I guess thats the place.
Did you tap into wires by the stock power amp under passenger seat?
 

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Yeah I had read that and tried it but there are a couple things in the way that plug into something behind it but I guess thats the place.
Did you tap into wires by the stock power amp under passenger seat?
Yes, but only for high/speaker level signal for the amp. I originally thought I could tap remote 12v off the amp, but that wasn't the case. The speaker colors and polarity are in a chart in this thread a few pages back.

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The Bose is known to have a line level input from the HU, so unless theres an amplified version in the non Bose, i would say the Bose is "easier" in that you can tap off the wires or solder in RCA's and no LOC needed. Youll retain 100% function of the CMU and TAU including steering wheel controls.
Hello, I see you mention not to use an LOC when I dont have to. Well I had a shop install an 8" sub at 400 rms with an amp at 500rms in m y 2021 mazda 3 sub. It has a non Bose thats amplified.
ANyway, I also gave them a passive LOC and theres no bass coming out unless the gain is all the way up
Im wondering, did they tap a wire PRE amplifier? Is that why its so low?
 

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Oh and regarding your 5.25 speakers, there are definitely options. That's provided that you are not satisfied with them. It sounds like you might be however. Do you know what frequencies those are handling at this point? If they are only delivering "low" frequencies, where are the highs coming from? In mine, the 8" door woofers are paired with the corner dash speakers so as I build my system, I am developing a solution that addresses them "together". Just how I'm choosing to address mine. There are different ways to go of course.
You didnt notice the question said 2020 year in it? Ok, but then you discovcer were talking about 4th ngen...and you stay here and eff up the thread with this other guy?
 

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I wasn't sure of the legality of publicly posting official wiring diagrams, so I've messaged it to you. I'm happy to share it with anybody else; just let me know.



I also was between the JBL and Rockville; for me, it came down to both the price and size concern. The subwoofer sits nicely on top of the spare tire, but the top of the subwoofer sticks out just barely over the liner. You still have a completely flat load floor with the liner installed, you just lose about 1/4 inch of vertical trunk space (I've had it installed for around 2 months, and it's definitely not noticeable in daily use). I don't think the JBL (which I think is larger than the Rockville) would fit in the spare tire area; it would stick out too much (unless you remove the tire completely). And besides, the Rockville still pumps a ton of bass (I keep it at 40% gain and it still shakes the mirrors).

View attachment 277922

I needed two minor modifications to install it with the lowest possible profile. The stock bolt that's provided has a wing nut that would stick out another 1/2 inch on top of the sub, which would poke into the trunk liner by half an inch, so I bought a similar bolt, washers, and some plastic spacers (I just eyeballed the bolts and spacers at home depot) to prevent the bolt from sticking out above the sub (you can see the new bolt sits in the center hole of the subwoofer). I've also stacked a few towels under the styrofoam supports (you can see the blue in the pictures) so they are elevated enough to support the liner.

View attachment 277923 View attachment 277924
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I wasn't sure of the legality of publicly posting official wiring diagrams, so I've messaged it to you. I'm happy to share it with anybody else; just let me know.



I also was between the JBL and Rockville; for me, it came down to both the price and size concern. The subwoofer sits nicely on top of the spare tire, but the top of the subwoofer sticks out just barely over the liner. You still have a completely flat load floor with the liner installed, you just lose about 1/4 inch of vertical trunk space (I've had it installed for around 2 months, and it's definitely not noticeable in daily use). I don't think the JBL (which I think is larger than the Rockville) would fit in the spare tire area; it would stick out too much (unless you remove the tire completely). And besides, the Rockville still pumps a ton of bass (I keep it at 40% gain and it still shakes the mirrors).

View attachment 277922

I needed two minor modifications to install it with the lowest possible profile. The stock bolt that's provided has a wing nut that would stick out another 1/2 inch on top of the sub, which would poke into the trunk liner by half an inch, so I bought a similar bolt, washers, and some plastic spacers (I just eyeballed the bolts and spacers at home depot) to prevent the bolt from sticking out above the sub (you can see the new bolt sits in the center hole of the subwoofer). I've also stacked a few towels under the styrofoam supports (you can see the blue in the pictures) so they are elevated enough to support the liner.

View attachment 277923 View attachment 277924
Could you share me the wiring diagram for the factory amp and harness please? I have a 2021 mazda 3 without bose and want to add amp and speakers!
 
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