I am about to pull the trigger on a new car, looking at the 2020 Mazda3 select. I am pretty sure these do not have the Bose setup. Has anyone put an amp into the 2019 or 2020 without the Bose system?
I am thinking I will be. It may be a few weeks, I like to haggle and get a good price on my vehicle. I will take plenty of pictures of the disassembly process and upgrade. From what little I can gather these vehicles have a mix of 3.5" and 4" speakers, damn that is small. I guess on a positive note they are a lot cheaper for each set but there are so few options compared to a standard 6.5" speaker.
Think I've seen a couple posts where people did it. The last one I recall they tapped the high level output from a speaker in the kick panel and used the amp's built in high level input. I'm not convinced this is the best route as I'm fairly sure there is some bass roll-off in our cars at higher levels. Best current option would probably be the AudioControl LC2i I'm thinking. I'd love for someone to find a way to get an unprocessed low level signal from the head unit, but I'm not holding my breath.
I highly doubt Mazda made both an unamplified and amplified TAU, so theres got to be an amp, just not a Bose amp and the input to that is gonna be a clean 20-20 signal like the Bose cars. Dont posture, dont guess and dont use an LOC when not needed.
What about the Bose system? If I went to the preferred instead of select I think that comes with a Bose. Would it be easier to hook my amp and speakers up to the Bose or the base model?
The Bose is known to have a line level input from the HU, so unless theres an amplified version in the non Bose, i would say the Bose is "easier" in that you can tap off the wires or solder in RCA's and no LOC needed. Youll retain 100% function of the CMU and TAU including steering wheel controls.
The Bose is known to have a line level input from the HU, so unless theres an amplified version in the non Bose, i would say the Bose is "easier" in that you can tap off the wires or solder in RCA's and no LOC needed. Youll retain 100% function of the CMU and TAU including steering wheel controls.
Mazda doesnt seem to be one to make major changes from year to year. Toyota still uses the main harness from 30 years ago, so im willing to bet that if you look under the pass seat youll find SOMETHING to look at.
Well I ended up getting the 2019 Mazda 3 Preferred. I will be tearing it all down in a few months slowly as I have time and money. I do not plan on doing anything to the car other than the audio and window tint.
This previous thread mentions that someone tapped into the outputs of the interior amp, I guess it was located under the passenger seat. Does this seem like a reasonable solution to anyone? If so I may pull out that seat this weekend so I have better visual on what is there and then start checking the pinout.
If you know for a fact that the input to a factory amp is a clean 20-20 line level signal why the hell would you ever tap the output of it with all the signal processing done to color it? Read the link in my sig...
If you know for a fact that the input to a factory amp is a clean 20-20 line level signal why the hell would you ever tap the output of it with all the signal processing done to color it? Read the link in my sig...
After reading the entire thread I can see that some were confused and wanted to use the high level outputs which is counter productive. I am guessing that you (Talontsi90) still have your setup? If someone could find a the same fitting connector we could make a harness with low level outs.
I haven't cut into mine yet, was hoping the same thing, cause I'll just run 16ga wire to the back and solder RCA's on. Plug n play would be nice. I guess I could head up to Best Buy and see if Metra has something that fits...
I haven't cut into mine yet, was hoping the same thing, cause I'll just run 16ga wire to the back and solder RCA's on. Plug n play would be nice. I guess I could head up to Best Buy and see if Metra has something that fits...
I do not think we will be that lucky yet. Also looking at the rear sub, I am wondering if that is a regular 8" hole. What the hell is up with the three small speakers in the rear deck? I am not sure if I am going to bother with that third small speaker when redoing it. I have a huge old model PPI that is in excellent physical condition. The problem is where to mount that thing. I think that amp is probably a good 2 foot long and 10 inches wide which limits my options.
I do not think we will be that lucky yet. Also looking at the rear sub, I am wondering if that is a regular 8" hole. What the hell is up with the three small speakers in the rear deck? I am not sure if I am going to bother with that third small speaker when redoing it. I have a huge old model PPI that is in excellent physical condition. The problem is where to mount that thing. I think that amp is probably a good 2 foot long and 10 inches wide which limits my options.
You obviously have a sedan, right? I'm not sure what 8" speaker you're referring to but I'll drop this in here just for the hatchback folks. Maybe an earlier model year when they had the spare tire unit?
On the 2016 hatch with Bose there are two 8" drivers, one in each of the front doors. Two 5.5 or 5.75“ speakers, one in each of the back doors. Two 3-4" speakers in the D pillars. And 3 dash speakers of which, I would leave the center one alone. By far the speakers that have the most impact and the corner dash ones and the two larger front door ones.
As I layout my system, those 4 are going to get the best quality speakers. By that I mean component speakers, driven by a super clean AMP (probably AB), with tightly controlled frequencies delivered to each. I am also flirting with the idea of adding a pair of compression drivers under the dash as well.
All the rear speakers (with the exception of a separate sub) are far less critical. I am more than happy to install a good pair of coaxial units in the doors, and I may do nothing to the small ones in the pillars.
As for the connections, I understand the desire for a wiring harness specifically made for our vehicles but I don't see the lack of one as any real hurdle. We are fortunate in all honesty. There are many applications that don't offer us the biggest gift, and that is (as @Talontsi90 pointed out), a clean, low power signal to tap. We don't even have to touch the head unit, hooray!
Anyway, this is a nice thread where we can exchange ideas!
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CONNECT II UPDATE FIRMWARE
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https://my.hidrive.com/share/mbfr7yqxva
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