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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm adding two 12" subs to my 2011 Mazda 3 i Touring without the Bose sound system. I also have a single channel, class D, monoblock amplifier. I'm new to audio equipment so naturally I have a few questions:

Are my subs and amp compatible?
Each sub requires 470W RMS power (CEA 2031) at 4Ω rated impedance. My amplifier puts out 900W RMS power at 4Ω and 1400W RMS power at 2Ω.

Which wiring diagram should I use, or should I do something completely differnet?
Diagram 1:


Diagram 2:


I did the best I could to illustrate my design in paint :p. I have an enclosure with clips in the back that hold wires in place. I was wondering if having the wires inside the box would interfere with the port or something like that. Does it not matter? Both of these would require 940W at 2Ω, and not cause a fire, short, or anything crazy, right?

What gauge wire should I use for my amps power, ground, and remote wires?

Should I use the High Level input connections or purchase an LOC?
I popped out my head unit to take a quick peak and I could not see any RCA outputs - just the standard harnesses. My amp came with a port and a connector that has five small wires coming from it. There's two for a right channel, two for a left channel, and a ground wire. However, my amp also has RCA inputs. Would I be able to purchase smaller wire to run each of the five wires from the High Level input to my head unit and splice them to appropriate wires? Or should I go the LOC route?

Thanks for taking the time to read this. Any help is appreciated.
~Peace Love Ganja
 

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So are you trying to add it to the stock sound system is that what your asking?
 

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-_-

Soo.. You spend the time to make that diagram and write out a huge paragraph of information, but pretty much neglected everything you needed to tell us in order for us to help..

1. Are your subs dual or single voice coil?

2. If they're single, do you want to run them at 2 ohm or 8 ohm?

If they're dual, do you want to run them at 1 ohm or 4 ohm?

3. Is your amp even 1 ohm stable, if not you're going to have to run them at 2 ohm or 4 ohm depending on voice coils.

4. It does not matter whatsoever if you wire on the inside of that box, do it that way so you have less distance and less resistance in your wires = better and more power transfer.

5. Your subs are rated at 470 rms a piece and your amp is rated at 900 rms at 4 ohm? So I'd suggest wiring your subs at 4 ohms if possible. That'd make your amp run cooler and it would be a lot cleaner sound with the correct amount of power going to your subs.

6. With 900 rms, I would probably run 0/1 gauge, but you could probably get away with running 4 gauge without any problems as long as you have a big enough fuse and get a really clean/solid ground and you can use any size wire for the remote wire.

7. If you're looking for a good quality sound and for your door speakers to be able to keep up with the bass you'll be producing with that much power, I'd suggest upgrading your head unit, this will give you a higher power signal to the amp and push more power to your door speakers making this loud. If you don't want to do that then LOC minimum.

8. This would be a whole lot easier if you told us the kind of subs you have and the kind of amp. Also, asking if they're "compatible" isn't really much of a question, because any sub and amp can be put together as long as you tune the amp correctly. Contrary to popular belief, under powering subs CAN NOT blow them, as long as the amp is tuned correctly.

9. Give me more information and ask me any more questions you may have. Also, use Rockford fosgate's woofer wiring wizard on their web site to figure out how to get the impedance you want on your subs.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Frnchplayr - yes, I am adding two subs and an amp to my stock sound system. I have the standard system, not the Bose system.

Thanks for the quick response Dwold.

My subs are single voice coil. Here's the manual for them if you need to know more information: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/XSGTX121LW_101_install_EN_ES.pdf
There's a 10" and 12" in the manual, mine are the XS-GTX121LW's.

Amplifier: PowerAcoustik - Amplifiers - Razor - RZ1-2300D

I think I would like to run them at 2 ohms.

Don't think my amp is 1 ohm stable, but not sure if 1 ohm is even possible with single voice coil anyways...

I'd rather not replace my head unit. So if I keep the stock head unit, you're saying to use the LOC rather than running 4 small gauge wires to my head unit for the high level input?

Thanks again, mate.
 

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Frnchplayr - yes, I am adding two subs and an amp to my stock sound system. I have the standard system, not the Bose system.

Thanks for the quick response Dwold.

My subs are single voice coil. Here's the manual for them if you need to know more information: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/XSGTX121LW_101_install_EN_ES.pdf
There's a 10" and 12" in the manual, mine are the XS-GTX121LW's.

Amplifier: PowerAcoustik - Amplifiers - Razor - RZ1-2300D

I think I would like to run them at 2 ohms.

Don't think my amp is 1 ohm stable, but not sure if 1 ohm is even possible with single voice coil anyways...

I'd rather not replace my head unit. So if I keep the stock head unit, you're saying to use the LOC rather than running 4 small gauge wires to my head unit for the high level input?

Thanks again, mate.
I prefer LOC because that gives you the ease of using RCA's.

Yes, you can run them at 2 ohm or 8 ohm, so I'd run them at 2 ohm for sure if I were you! http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=1

Just make sure you have the gains and stuff set right and you'll be fine. I wouldn't go more than 3/4 up on your gain, but also match that with your head unit. If you turn your volume to like 8 and it's super loud, then you know your gain is too high, and if you turn it to like 20 and you can barley hear it then its too low.

You can also pop test the subs once you have them wired by using a drill battery or something. Take your positive lead and your negative lead and touch them to the positive and negative on the battery. If they both go out or in then they're in phase, if one goes in and one goes out then they're out of phase, meaning you crossed your positive and negatives somewhere. Good easy trick to make sure they're wired correctly.




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