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I'm new to the group and 3 ownership. I've got an '04 3s hatchback with 110k miles. After the AC has run for 15-20 minutes it will turn off. The blower keeps working it it only blows vent air. Turning the blower off and back on fixes it for another few minutes. Does anyone else have this issue? Trying to figure out if it's electrical, compressor or R-134 levels. The return line feels cold when it's running. TIA!
 

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I also have a similar issue with an 06 mazda 3 gt. I haven't been able to solve it just yet. The compressor kicks on initially but occasionally stops, I'm assuming that's normal? (Sorry, pretty new to all this)
 

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i would start with the basics and make sure you are not running low on refrigerant

otherwise hopefully you don't have a bad AC compressor clutch
 

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i would start with the basics and make sure you are not running low on refrigerant

otherwise hopefully you don't have a bad AC compressor clutch
great place to start, you may also need to check/replace the blower motor resistor or the blend door actuator as they control blower speed and temperature respectively. my .02 cents
 

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The AC Refrigerant was a little low, but not too much. Refilled it anyways to give that a go. The compressor engages initially, but after an increasingly shortening period of time it stops. Is there a way to diagnose the compressor clutch? Or any other ideas?

Thanks everyone for the replies
 

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Do you have climate control set to auto?

This will only engage the AC and the compressor when it is needed, there is an ECO mode to reduce the load on the engine so the compressor is used only when very cold air is required.

Topping up the refrigerant will reduce the time the compressor is active as you have more gas making the heat exchange therefore dropping the cabin temperature quicker.
 

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I don't believe my AC has an auto setting. Just an AC button, fan speed, temp and location. The compressor kicks on when I start it, then eventually kicks off, kicks back on after a few seconds, then kicks off after a second, kicks back on, then kicks off and stays off.
 

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Maybe when the inside set temperature is lower than outside temperature it turns off, then it starts again when temperature starts to increase.
 

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The original poster has the symptoms of low refrigerant. After the compressor starts it pumps the system down until it cuts out on low pressure.
 

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I'm new to the group and 3 ownership. I've got an '04 3s hatchback with 110k miles. After the AC has run for 15-20 minutes it will turn off. The blower keeps working it it only blows vent air. Turning the blower off and back on fixes it for another few minutes. Does anyone else have this issue? Trying to figure out if it's electrical, compressor or R-134 levels. The return line feels cold when it's running. TIA!
Hi, hope you sorted out this problem. I'm facing this same issue. Please post your experience and solution for this issue. Thanks
 

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Well I have sorted out this problem by visiting a car ac mechanic and he just changed ac clutch and one fuse in transmission pannel. Now it's working absolutely fine. Attaching images for reference.
how much did you pay for this? i have the same problem for my 08 mazda 3
 

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how much did you pay for this? i have the same problem for my 08 mazda 3
A replacement clutch can be found on ebay for $150ish. For anyone doing this, just keep in mind a few things.

1. You will need to replace the stretch belt going to the pulley. Do not re-use the one currently on it, as removing it can cause damage. A new belt is only $20.

2. You will need a gear puller tool to get the idler pulley off the compressor shaft. C clip pliers are REALLY helpful for getting that clip off. If you don't have some, buy a pair. You will use them a lot anyway!

3. After installing the new idler pulley, you will need to re-shim. I believe the proper air gap is 0.012" to 0.020" but I don't remember exactly.
Overall, the repair can be done for $200 or less if you know what you are doing, and shouldn't take more than a few hours.

A new clutch would be a lot less labour intensive. It's not a Diy job, which requires the refrigerant removed.
 

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A replacement clutch can be found on ebay for $150ish. For anyone doing this, just keep in mind a few things.

1. You will need to replace the stretch belt going to the pulley. Do not re-use the one currently on it, as removing it can cause damage. A new belt is only $20.

2. You will need a gear puller tool to get the idler pulley off the compressor shaft. C clip pliers are REALLY helpful for getting that clip off. If you don't have some, buy a pair. You will use them a lot anyway!

3. After installing the new idler pulley, you will need to re-shim. I believe the proper air gap is 0.012" to 0.020" but I don't remember exactly.
Overall, the repair can be done for $200 or less if you know what you are doing, and shouldn't take more than a few hours.

A new clutch would be a lot less labour intensive. It's not a Diy job, which requires the refrigerant removed.
thank you very much for the response for everyone to see, upon looking at this, i am not qualified for this, im more inclined into lighting and not mechanical.
 
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