[mariasymeou7]

Hi, I'm having problems with my ABS pump needs replacing. I was quoted
AU$3,000+ to replace it. I have a 2011 Mazda 3S
Any suggestions if I should fix it up or could I disconnect it?

 

[RocketmanKarl]

The part itself is ~AU$1200 for an OEM part I think, the rest would be labor, and I think that might be too much. I don't think you want to drive it without the ABS working. Modern cars are designed around having that ABS working. Your brakes still sort of work without it, but it's a bit like driving around on your dinky spare tire. You can drive on that thing for months, but you shouldn't.

Replacing the ABS pump can be tricky. The way the dealer or professional mechanic will fix it is to undo the brake lines into and out of it and replace it with the new pump. Then they bleed the brake lines. Then they will "exercise" the ABS pump using a computer that commands the ABS pump to run, which pushes all of the air out of the ABS pump. Then they re-bleed the brakes to make sure there's no air in the system (air in the system will make the pedal feel "spongy" and not work as well as they should).

The tricky bit is the aforementioned computer. It's thousands to buy one, and hundreds every year for updates, so mechanics make sure to be well-paid for anything that requires it. Now, anybody who is a shade-tree mechanic can replace the pump and bleed the brakes, but exercising the ABS pump is tricky without the computer. There is a "*******" way to exercise the ABS pump without the computer, but nobody will recommend it, it isn't guaranteed to work, and might be dangerous if you hit something. Do this at your own risk and don't sue me.

******* method: After replacing the pump and doing a brake bleed, drive the car on a slippery surface, slippery enough that you can reliably get the ABS to trigger for a while before you stop. Slippery like a gravel or grassy road/lot, icy or snowy lot, etc and open enough that there isn't other traffic or stuff to run into. Get up to ~30 mph (50 km/h), then mash the brake pedal, making the ABS engage (pulsing brake pedal). You need to be going fast enough that the ABS pump is running for at least a few seconds (this is the key, if it doesn't run the ABS pump at all or long enough, this method won't work), but not so fast that you run out of space and hit something. Adjust your speed as necessary to get a few seconds of ABS per run. Repeat this 4-5 times, then bleed the brakes and you should be good to go. I used this method in a dodge pickup several years back and it worked fine. Again, this is very *******, not an approved method, and to be done at your own risk.

 

[mariasymeou7]

The part itself is ~AU$1200 for an OEM part I think, the rest would be labor, and I think that might be too much. I don't think you want to drive it without the ABS working. Modern cars are designed around having that ABS working. Your brakes still sort of work without it, but it's a bit like driving around on your dinky spare tire. You can drive on that thing for months, but you shouldn't.

Replacing the ABS pump can be tricky. The way the dealer or professional mechanic will fix it is to undo the brake lines into and out of it and replace it with the new pump. Then they bleed the brake lines. Then they will "exercise" the ABS pump using a computer that commands the ABS pump to run, which pushes all of the air out of the ABS pump. Then they re-bleed the brakes to make sure there's no air in the system (air in the system will make the pedal feel "spongy" and not work as well as they should).

The tricky bit is the aforementioned computer. It's thousands to buy one, and hundreds every year for updates, so mechanics make sure to be well-paid for anything that requires it. Now, anybody who is a shade-tree mechanic can replace the pump and bleed the brakes, but exercising the ABS pump is tricky without the computer. There is a "***" way to exercise the ABS pump without the computer, but nobody will recommend it, it isn't guaranteed to work, and might be dangerous if you hit something. Do this at your own risk and don't sue me.

*** method: After replacing the pump and doing a brake bleed, drive the car on a slippery surface, slippery enough that you can reliably get the ABS to trigger for a while before you stop. Slippery like a gravel or grassy road/lot, icy or snowy lot, etc and open enough that there isn't other traffic or stuff to run into. Get up to ~30 mph (50 km/h), then mash the brake pedal, making the ABS engage (pulsing brake pedal). You need to be going fast enough that the ABS pump is running for at least a few seconds (this is the key, if it doesn't run the ABS pump at all or long enough, this method won't work), but not so fast that you run out of space and hit something. Adjust your speed as necessary to get a few seconds of ABS per run. Repeat this 4-5 times, then bleed the brakes and you should be good to go. I used this method in a dodge pickup several years back and it worked fine. Again, this is very ***, not an approved method, and to be done at your own risk.

Thank you very much for all the information is helped me to learn a lot. One more question, do you think it's better to have the ABS pump changed at a MAZDA dealer machanic or any auto electrician machanic that will charge me $300 less than the MAZDA dealer?

 

[RocketmanKarl]

Personally, I'd do the work myself. There are lots of ways to get the part, ranging in price from a $100 US for a used one on ebay, to ~$600 US for a new OEM part from an online seller like CarID.com. You'd need only some basic tools like a socket set, a set of wrenches, some penetrating oil, and brake fluid. There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to replace the pump and how to bleed the brakes, neither of which is very hard. I'd only have to spend ~$150 and an afternoon to fix it with a used part, or $650 for a new one.

I'd watch a few videos on these repairs, then make the decision on doing it yourself. It's worth half an hour to maybe save yourself $2k. I use this method to see if I want to tackle a repair or take it elsewhere.

If you have watched the videos on how to do it, and still think you aren't up to doing it yourself, then by all means don't feel guilty about paying someone else to do it. These are your brakes after all. If the difference between the dealer and another mechanic is only $300 (a 10% savings), you might as well go to the dealer. If you know that mechanic really well and have absolute trust in their work, maybe the savings is worth it.

The one thing NEVER to do is mix the two. Never pay a professional to do part of any job. They have no incentive to do quality work, and have a perfect excuse if anything goes wrong ("the person who finished it screwed up, not me").

 

[mariasymeou7]

Personally, I'd do the work myself. There are lots of ways to get the part, ranging in price from a $100 US for a used one on ebay, to ~$600 US for a new OEM part from an online seller like CarID.com. You'd need only some basic tools like a socket set, a set of wrenches, some penetrating oil, and brake fluid. There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to replace the pump and how to bleed the brakes, neither of which is very hard. I'd only have to spend ~$150 and an afternoon to fix it with a used part, or $650 for a new one.

I'd watch a few videos on these repairs, then make the decision on doing it yourself. It's worth half an hour to maybe save yourself $2k. I use this method to see if I want to tackle a repair or take it elsewhere.

If you have watched the videos on how to do it, and still think you aren't up to doing it yourself, then by all means don't feel guilty about paying someone else to do it. These are your brakes after all. If the difference between the dealer and another mechanic is only $300 (a 10% savings), you might as well go to the dealer. If you know that mechanic really well and have absolute trust in their work, maybe the savings is worth it.

The one thing NEVER to do is mix the two. Never pay a professional to do part of any job. They have no incentive to do quality work, and have a perfect excuse if anything goes wrong ("the person who finished it screwed up, not me").

Personally, I'd do the work myself. There are lots of ways to get the part, ranging in price from a $100 US for a used one on ebay, to ~$600 US for a new OEM part from an online seller like CarID.com. You'd need only some basic tools like a socket set, a set of wrenches, some penetrating oil, and brake fluid. There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to replace the pump and how to bleed the brakes, neither of which is very hard. I'd only have to spend ~$150 and an afternoon to fix it with a used part, or $650 for a new one.

I'd watch a few videos on these repairs, then make the decision on doing it yourself. It's worth half an hour to maybe save yourself $2k. I use this method to see if I want to tackle a repair or take it elsewhere.

If you have watched the videos on how to do it, and still think you aren't up to doing it yourself, then by all means don't feel guilty about paying someone else to do it. These are your brakes after all. If the difference between the dealer and another mechanic is only $300 (a 10% savings), you might as well go to the dealer. If you know that mechanic really well and have absolute trust in their work, maybe the savings is worth it.

The one thing NEVER to do is mix the two. Never pay a professional to do part of any job. They have no incentive to do quality work, and have a perfect excuse if anything goes wrong ("the person who finished it screwed up, not me").

Once again thank you very much for your advice. Since I have no idea how to do anything mechanical I will take it to the dealer. At least they said they can get the part in for me in 2-3 days instead of 2-3 weeks.

 

[MrCrudley]

Once again thank you very much for your advice. Since I have no idea how to do anything mechanical I will take it to the dealer. At least they said they can get the part in for me in 2-3 days instead of 2-3 weeks.

Hi, I have my ABS LEDs coming on intermittently also. I suspected the ABS pump too but there are times when it works fine and it could be the a wheel sensor instead. It seems to happen more in drier, less humid weather also and will turn on if the wheels spin.

If you have had any wheel kind of work since it happened, like new tyres or a tyre rotation then it might be worth considering in case it has been accidently bumped and out out of alignment.

From what I understand so far, it is the ABS LED stays on hard all of the time then it might most likely be the pump but intermittently turning on could be ta wheel sensor. Interrogating the fault codes from the engine should give finer details - is it the pump or sensors or something else etc, but would be nice to get some confirmation on what is busted first up

If it is the the pump, then one option might be these company that recondition your ABS module. They are located in Sydney and I think your mechanic would have to remove the pump and send it off to get the magic done. I haven't used them but it is an option over a dealership $3k pump. Home

Alternatively, you might be able to fish out a pump from a Mazda wrecker like Formaz but of course YMMV and may need a recondition anyhow.

OPS

I share your pain on a $3k ABS pump which is even bigger that the $1700 for front discs that a Mazda dealership quoted

 

[mariasymeou7]

Hi, I have my ABS LEDs coming on intermittently also. I suspected the ABS pump too but there are times when it works fine and it could be the a wheel sensor instead. It seems to happen more in drier, less humid weather also and will turn on if the wheels spin.

If you have had any wheel kind of work since it happened, like new tyres or a tyre rotation then it might be worth considering in case it has been accidently bumped and out out of alignment.

From what I understand so far, it is the ABS LED stays on hard all of the time then it might most likely be the pump but intermittently turning on could be ta wheel sensor. Interrogating the fault codes from the engine should give finer details - is it the pump or sensors or something else etc, but would be nice to get some confirmation on what is busted first up

If it is the the pump, then one option might be these company that recondition your ABS module. They are located in Sydney and I think your mechanic would have to remove the pump and send it off to get the magic done. I haven't used them but it is an option over a dealership $3k pump. Home

Alternatively, you might be able to fish out a pump from a Mazda wrecker like Formaz but of course YMMV and may need a recondition anyhow.

OPS

I share your pain on a $3k ABS pump which is even bigger that the $1700 for front discs that a Mazda dealership quoted

Thanks for your feedback. I took my car to the dealers even though it cost me over $3k
The good thing is they changed the ANS pulp and it is now working great. All the lights that were coming up on the dashboard are now off. I'm glad I fixed it, I left it too late to do the job in the first place. By the time i took it to be fixed my car had lost so much power, the during wheel was very hard to use and my speedometer want working.
I did try to find a second hand pump but for six months I had no luck unfortunately. One of the reckers wanted $2.5k

Anyway hopefully the car drives well for me for another few years 🙂