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ABS light

I live in North Carolina and. Have a Mazda 3 2010 also. My ABS light is staying on plus the skid picture is on. I took Ito the Mazda dealership in Winston Salem and they said it needed replacing. For 1200.00. My haw dropped open.
 

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I'm having the same issue with my 2011 Mazda 3S. The dealer is quoting ~$1060 to replace the hydaulic unit. Apparently, my ABS and traction will not work unless I replace the hydraulic unit. Anyone found a cheaper option or do you suggest I go with the dealer?
 

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Just purchased a Mazda 3 2010 Sport in West Florida. Within a few days the ABS light turned on and now when I brake there is a crazy grinding clicking sound. Pretty much unable to drive.

Any progress on this with Mazda? Seems to be am epidemic.
 

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Demon Spawn
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the abs pump repair costs so much because to properly replace said pump on these cars you have to bleed the air out of the brake lines afterwards, well of course to get it out of the module it needs a scan tool to cycle it rapidly and correctly to push the air out. and your friendly stealership is not going to hook up their $5000 scan tool for free and do this even if the tech is already getting labor for the job, because the scan tool part will obviously be an extra charge. if you do not have the proper scan tool to do this, find a used part or a cheaper aftermarket one that will fit your car and find an independent shop that has the equipment to do the job right (many shops will) and see if they will let you bring your part to replace and just charge labor, that should save you a ton. I am lucky I have a shop up the street that is happy for me to bring my own parts, as they know me (used to deliver parts to them at my old job) and I have used them forever when I don't have the time or tools etc to do a repair, the owner even told me he likes I get my own parts as it saves him time hunting things down, and I already know the problem so his tech doesn't have to waste time looking for other broken things he can just put the part(s) on and pull it out. anyways 3rd party shops will save you a ton on this. it could even be that the abs pump needs to be cycled with a scan tool and not even replaced but your dealer usually will not tell you this, as they want to replace parts because they get more profit aka $$$$$ by replacing these things you may or may not need and upcharge for every little tiny thing they do. there is a tsb for this, it could also be contaminated brake fluid doing this as well, you have to periodically bleed and change the brake fluid to prevent things like this and sticky caliper, rusted line etc.

The TSB even mentions in areas with high temps and humidity, that leads me to believe the issue lies in either water ingress into your brake fluid (common as brake fluid absorbs water and they don't work well together) hence having to change the fluid every few years to prevent rust, as even the most sealed up system will have a way to let water in somewhere. or the connectors to the pump may get a little too damp and not allow communications and eventually lead to failure of the module. if this is the case try wrapping the pigtail(s) to your abs module in good high temp electrical tape to help prevent water ingress
 

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Hi all, this is my first post here. I am the owner of a nice Mazdaspeed 3 2010.
Do all Mazda 3's 07-13 have the same brake control module? I'm asking because i need one and most sellers don't include a partnumber. Thanks in advance.
 

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Dear all,
I’m the owner of a Mazda 3 I, 2010, 47 000 miles, in Miami FL
8 months ago, I started to have ABS and TSC warning light coming on and off. It could stay on a day or more and then be off for couple of days.
The only pattern I noticed: most of the time, the lights were on when it was hot outside and my car was exposed to the sun.
The speed sensor wire seems to be fine, ABS module looks OK. I have no trouble or weird sensation when I brake. Cruise still works.
Couple of weeks ago, the lights starts to be on constantly. Then I realize it was time for a diagnostic and I brought it to a mechanic: “Faulty ABS Pump”, error C1288 if I remember correctly
After a Google research, looks like it is a factory default. However, this morning, on an unusual “cold” temperature, around 65 F, no lights for more than a hour…and then it came back…probably because the engine was too hot.
According to my mechanic, it will cost more than $1000 to replace the ABS pump or $600 to replace it with a used part.
However, I’m wondering if one of you has a similar experience with it. I’m not comfortable to set a new Pump that has probably the same factory default. And I’m not even sure the pump is the trouble.
Any help will be more appreciated.
best
Way too much money for a used pump. Wreckers charges about 150 a peice. It should take less then 3hr labour to replace. Do the math 600 tops with parts and labour
 
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