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The proper way to shift a manual is to do it quickly enough so that the rev's don't fall too far, therefore matching speeds, however not to FORCE the shift. You should always GUIDE the stick, not force it. When I have taught people to drive stick, I have instructed them to use an open hand to push the stick where is has to go, so it will go in on it's own.

My point is that if you aren't ramming the stick into position, it should just go in without any drama. If it doesn't and you need to do things such as release it and try again, engage and disengage the clutch, rev the engine and engage as the revolutions fall, etc, something is wrong. Especially with a new car, with new synchros.

I currently have about 300 miles on mine.

My hope is that there are some burrs or sharp edges on the dogs of 4th gear and that they will wear in and the problem will go away. I'm pretty sure it's not a synchronizer issue because it never grinds.

When you are able to drive it again and as you put a few more miles on, let us all know what your experiences are. I will do the same.
 

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I definitely will let you know how it goes. I have driven standards since i was 16 and never had problems with them shifting. The only thing similar I have ever felt was on a 2012 Honda Civic that had about 600 miles on it. I am crossing my fingers that it is just breaking in new cars these days. If it still persists after break in I am definitely going to be taking it in.
 

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Just refinanced and traded in my '12 6MT. Had 7k miles or so. 2nd was almost always notchy, less so as weather got warmer. Temps got down to -10 in my part of Missouri this winter and, while annoying, I can say the notchy-ness never completely prevented a shift. To directly address your question, the issue never went away for me.
 

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The actual inner workings of a standard transmission and shifter are beyond my automotive expertise...but would the swapping out for after market bushing and shift plates like corksport sells perhaps remedy this issue?

Albeit I know they do not make them currently for the Skyactiv but I am sure they will.
 

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We got into another '12 Sky 3, GT this time instead of Touring, auto. Wifey didn't like the manual in our usual stop n go routine, and they were able to put us in the GT for $40 less per month. I'll end up paying another grand or so extra in the long run but.. well, not gonna lie, the added luxury of the GT and the super smooth shifting of the AT has outweighed my sadness of losing a manual in this car.

Couldn't convince the wife to go for a Speed. To be fair I think she'd shit herself the first time she experienced torque steer. :p Doubtful we could afford those payments anyway.
 

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The 4th gear issue with mine HAS prevented a shift, including this morning. Funny thing is, though, that the weather was about the same this evening as it was this morning (remnants of that tropical storm coming through - low 60's and very humid and wet) and NOW the shifting is precise and smooth, with no problems...
 

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Most speed 3's are actually slightly less than auto iGT's, by about a grand, believe it or not. The big problem is the crappy gas mileage and the fact that they take super...
Don't you find that the auto, good as they are, don't quite land you in the correct gear a lot of the time? You end up having to give a lot of gas to elicit a downshift, then it overrevs and then it immediately upshifts again...
 

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Just drive in manual mode all the time man, shifts faster than the 6MT anyways for the vast majority of people. :)
 

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The manual mode is not truly manual, though and will downshift when you're not expecting it, so you smack the shifter and think you're getting 2nd and you get 1st instead. Surprise!! Also will upshift when you don't want it to. Sorry - not a fan of almost any automatic. Automated manuals are a different story, but even so, greatly prefer true manuals.
The other thing is that the automatic shifts SO much, what does that say about longevity? Don't know face about this, of course, but SO many operational cycles...
 

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*facts
 

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We got into another '12 Sky 3, GT this time instead of Touring, auto. Wifey didn't like the manual in our usual stop n go routine, and they were able to put us in the GT for $40 less per month. I'll end up paying another grand or so extra in the long run but.. well, not gonna lie, the added luxury of the GT and the super smooth shifting of the AT has outweighed my sadness of losing a manual in this car.

Couldn't convince the wife to go for a Speed. To be fair I think she'd shit herself the first time she experienced torque steer. :p Doubtful we could afford those payments anyway.
Great deal.. It saves you some money on your payments & wifey is happy. Shifting can be tiresome in stop n go, so I totally get that. $1000 long term is not that big of a deal anyways.. The cost is dispersed so it doesn't pinch much. And the added luxury is always nice.

I think I'm becoming like a lot of the people here. Came to the sky for mileage, but the speed sounds nicer each passing day. I have been burned by a VW turbo before, so I think I won't make the jump. And the money lost by driving that new car off the lot needs to be recovered.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I have a '13 MZ3 6MT with 1000 miles on it and I also experience this issue when shifting from 1-2 quite regularly. I have only had it happen once or twice when shifting from 2-3. I wouldn't say it is grinding, it just takes a little more effort to get it into gear and it feels a little notchy. I am contemplating on taking it into the dealership and asking them about it, but if it is a known issue and it is not causing damage I might just live with it.
 

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The proper way to shift a manual is to do it quickly enough so that the rev's don't fall too far, therefore matching speeds
I know this is an old quote but since we're on this topic, whenever I do that it causes the car to jerk and the engine to still drop, meaning if I shift quick then I'll end up shifting too early. The only time its really smooth is shifting into 2nd at extremely low engine speed (2-2.5k). If I push it over 2.5 in 2nd, I have to wait for it to drop below 1.5k in order for it to shift into 2nd smoothly.
 

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I'm not sure what you mean by 'smooth'. You don't necessarily want to be smooth, depending on what you mean. You don't want the car to jerk the engine speed too much up or down, when the clutch engages, but on the other hand, you don't want to gradually feather it in, because not only is that inefficient, but it also wears the clutch more. You want the speeds matched well and you want a firm shift, where you let the clutch up fairly rapidly. You should feel a SLIGHT clunk when the plate contacts the flywheel. If this is happening when the speeds are well matched, this is a good thing, not a bad thing.

Above being said, the VERY soft clutch on the skyactiv, coupled with the fact that it has a broad engagement with correspondingly low feel, DOES make this difficult to master. On my Honda's (which have low, narrow engagement with tons of feel and Nissan's and Subaru's (somewhere in the middle), it is easier. Practice, practice, practice...
 

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if you havent done the following..

- adjust the shifter position per JBR (if it is at all similar to 2010 model)
- change the tranny fluid

you havent tried.

as well, cant really rush the shifter cable cuz the notchy feeling is cable binding before the gear selector engage.
 

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Asian Infatuation
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I'm not sure what you mean by 'smooth'. You don't necessarily want to be smooth, depending on what you mean.
When the car doesn't jerk and the engine doesn't jump when shifting.

You should feel a SLIGHT clunk when the plate contacts the flywheel. If this is happening when the speeds are well matched, this is a good thing, not a bad thing.
I was a tad confused by this, so basically if the engine jumps a tad, its not bad? I worry about this mostly when downshifting because I feel like I take too much time trying to find the right engine speed. By the time I shift down, the engine may drop to 2k, and if I press down I sometimes rev it too high. But I worry about engaging and forcing the engine to rev itself that high.

Even after a month I still sound like a novice.
 

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It goes away once the gears get to know each other better. I'd say after 3-4k you wont notice it anymore
I have a while until I hit those kind of miles.. My concern is what if any damage is happening to the car?


The only time its really smooth is shifting into 2nd at extremely low engine speed (2-2.5k). If I push it over 2.5 in 2nd, I have to wait for it to drop below 1.5k in order for it to shift into 2nd smoothly.
I typically shift around 2.5k - 3k so I will give this a try and see what happens.


if you havent done the following..

- adjust the shifter position per JBR (if it is at all similar to 2010 model)
- change the tranny fluid

you havent tried.

as well, cant really rush the shifter cable cuz the notchy feeling is cable binding before the gear selector engage.
The car is a lease and I have had it for 2 weeks, my odometer reads 1081 miles.. Is changing the tranny fluid really necessary?

Like I said it is a lease so I don't want to mess with the car too much, but maybe I will take a look into adjusting the shifter position.
 

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What I meant by a slight clunk was this:

If the flywheel (engine speed) and friction plate (transmission speed) are about the same, when they come together it should be like gently clapping your hands together. This should be done firmly (but not hard).

If the flywheel and friction plate speeds are too far apart, your hands are turning with respect to each other as they come together and therefore may wear excessively.

Don't be afraid to rev the engine up a little bit if it drops too much before you let the clutch out. And if it is reving (either up or down) freely, versus holding your foot on the gas, the car will 'grab' the engine and correct the speed with less friction taking place at the clutch. More smoothly.

It should be mentioned that the drive-by-wire throttle on this car also makes things a little difficult, as what it does, does NOT correspond directly to what your foot does, but rather the computer's interpretation of what is required....

I have been driving almost exclusively stick shift cars for about 32 years and motorcycles before that and I find this particular clutch/throttle challenging to totally master, so if you've only been driving it a month, cut yourself some slack. You'll get it.
 
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