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30K Manual Transmission Change

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#1 · (Edited)
30K Manual Transmission Fluid Change

Just got back from the dealer and they recommended a manual transmission fluid change at 30K (I'm just over 25). I searched this and only saw some discussion on what type of fluid to use. I'm wondering what the interval for the change is since it doesn't state in the owners manual. Also, the quote from the dealer is $175 for the change. Seems a bit pricey. Is changing the fluid as easy as changing the oil? I need to look at the service manual posted, but I want to see if anyone has any input.

PS: The 30K recommended service they do is basically a glorified oil change that costs $265. This is an immense rip-off, especially since they change $75 for the cabin filter that takes 30 seconds to replace. So, I'm understandably concerned about their manual trans fluid recommendation.
 
#2 ·
Just got back from the dealer and they recommended a manual transmission fluid change at 30K (I'm just over 25). I searched this and only saw some discussion on what type of fluid to use. I'm wondering what the interval for the change is since it doesn't state in the owners manual. Also, the quote from the dealer is $175 for the change. Seems a bit pricey. Is changing the fluid as easy as changing the oil? I need to look at the service manual posted, but I want to see if anyone has any input.

PS: The 30K recommended service they do is basically a glorified oil change that costs $265. This is an immense rip-off, especially since they change $75 for the cabin filter that takes 30 seconds to replace. So, I'm understandably concerned about their manual trans fluid recommendation.
You may want to look at the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. If Mazda recommends it, it will be in the manual.

My local dealer is the same way. The oil change isn't bad for $60. However, they want $60 for the air filter and $50 for the cabin filter. I think it's pretty standard practice for dealers to charge exorbitant amounts of money for work.
 
#3 ·
It does not state anything about how often to change the manual trans fluid in the owners manual. Also, the service manual that I found in the "How-to" section of this forum doesn't specify either. However, it looks like changing the fluid on the 6-speed cars (2.0L) is as easy as an oil change.

Here's some fluid that matches Mazda's recommendation:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50204-Transmission-Transaxle/dp/B000CPCBEG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459189478&sr=1-1&keywords=75w-80[/ame]

Looks like I would need two quarts according to the service manual. At a total cost of just under $40 plus maybe two hours of my time, the $175 quoted to me is laughable. I hope this info is helpful to someone.

Edit: It's looks even easier than an oil change as there is no transmission oil filter.
 
#16 ·
It does not state anything about how often to change the manual trans fluid in the owners manual. Also, the service manual that I found in the "How-to" section of this forum doesn't specify either. However, it looks like changing the fluid on the 6-speed cars (2.0L) is as easy as an oil change.

Here's some fluid that matches Mazda's recommendation:

Amazon.com: Red Line (50204) SAE 75W80 API GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart: Automotive

Looks like I would need two quarts according to the service manual. At a total cost of just under $40 plus maybe two hours of my time, the $175 quoted to me is laughable. I hope this info is helpful to someone.

Edit: It's looks even easier than an oil change as there is no transmission oil filter.
I ran redline in my 2006 miata for a while. Changed to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS 75W-90 GL-4 (WSD-M2C200-C) and the results were amazing.
Motorcraft MTX-75 IB5 transmission fluid XT-M5-QS
Shifting is so much smoother. If you do not believe me there is 55 pages of posts on this oil at the miata forum.
Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - Page 55 - MX-5 Miata Forum
This summer I intend to try the Motorcraft in my 3.
 
#4 ·
If my memory is correct, the maintenance schedule states simply to inspect the oil level and quality of the oil. Discolouration is fine, you're really looking for any debris or change in the viscosity.

This is pretty much the same for almost all manual transaxles out there. 30k seems a little early, I usually do this around 100k kms.

With this in mind, changing the oil isn't a bad idea. Provided you do this simple job correctly, it'll only do good.

There's never a filter for manuals, just a drain and refill. A couple tips: remove the fill plug first. That way you eliminate the problem of not being able to refill after a drain if the fill plug seizes. A long neck narrow funnel and some tubing make a great filler tool. Get yourself 3 quarts of oil. Be a shame if you plan for two and be short a little bit.

FYI the oil spec is indeed in the owners manual. It's just not with the maintenance section. They put that near the back in the specification charts.
 
#7 ·
Great advice! Also, the removal of the drain plug first is also a good idea. I should clarify that my 30K is in miles and not kilometers.

Referring to the post about the warranty, I'm not sure how that would play out. If you did your own motor oil changes properly at home and then had an engine issue, would there be a breach in warranty? It depends on the situation. Anyways, with a little bit of planning and research, the trans fluid change seems like a low risk job.
 
#9 ·
Warranty with diy maintenance is a precarious thing... I do it myself and you must do everything exactly correctly and keep records of what you do.

Read Mazda's warranty documents. They actually make provisions for diy maintenance. It tells you what is required to maintain your warranty.

Keep all receipts for supplies. Never give the dealer originals, only copies.

Get Mazda's service manual (link on these forums somewhere) and follow it exactly. Example, I use the torque spec on the drain plug while changing oil.

Keep a good paper trail of what you do with dates and times.

Finally, I went the extra mile and video tape all my maintenance with my cell phone.

The idea is to make it impossible for the dealer to claim that something was done incorrectly.
 
#10 ·
This is fantastic advice. You have been very helpful. I really hope some people see this so they can avoid headaches later.

I'm not quite at the mileage to do any of this yet, so this project will be up and coming in the next couple of months. I plan to update with pictures and a DIY tutorial when I do.
 
#11 ·
As others have said, you do not have to change your manual tranny oil to maintain your warranty, and the gearbox doesn't really require it. If it did, it would be in the maintenance section of your owners manual. That said, I always change the gearbox oil in a new car within the first year just to flush out the initial wear particles that might come from the final drive and the synchros. Do it if you are fussy about your car and/or you want to keep it well beyond the warranty period.

Changing the gearbox oil is not as easy as an oil change due to the difficulty in refilling the transaxle from the side filler. And cleanliness is really important when you do this job, if you use a long funnel, make sure the funnel and tubing are spotlessly clean before you start. Same with a bottle or transfer pump; you don't want to introduce any small dirt particles along with the nice clean new lubricant. Clean the outside of the gearbox in the vicinity of the side filler before you start the job.

There is a Federal law that covers us home-mechanics who prefer to do our own maintenance. As long as you use proper (not necessarily Mazda) parts and materials, and you have your receipts; you will not risk your warranty.

Dave
 
#17 ·
Changing the gearbox oil is not as easy as an oil change due to the difficulty in refilling the transaxle from the side filler. And cleanliness is really important when you do this job, if you use a long funnel, make sure the funnel and tubing are spotlessly clean before you start. Same with a bottle or transfer pump; you don't want to introduce any small dirt particles along with the nice clean new lubricant. Clean the outside of the gearbox in the vicinity of the side filler before you start the job.
^Good advice here. To make the job much easier, you can buy one of those expensive pressurized tank type gear oil refill tools that Motive sells, or you can easily build your own tool that does the same thing for a lot less. That's what I did, below is a picture of what I put together. Basically I started with a small tank sprayer that you can pick up for <$20 at any big box hardware store. Replaced the sprayer wand/hose as shown with some vinyl hose, fittings and a compressed air blower nozzle valve. Put your gear oil in the tank, pump it up to get some pressure, then use the nozzle valve to dispense oil into your tranny's fill plug.
 

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#12 ·
I dumped the original factory fill at like 5 or 10k miles, I don't remember exactly and replaced it with the same oil that I ordered from Mazda. Shifting got smoother. I'm now nearing 36k and wouldn't mind dumping the 1.x quarts out and replace with two fresh quarts of oil. If you do it yourself, it's not that expensive and will help prolong the transmission life.
 
#13 ·
I'm very familiar with this type of maintenance and plan to do it on my new Mazda3 when it reaches about 50k miles, or if I feel like finding out if the oil change improves shifting. For now, with only 4k on my car, shifting is buttery smooth. It is a simple task and good advice is given in previous posts about removing the fill plug first and cleanliness.

For reference, all of my previous cars have had manual transmissions, and I find that this type of oil change often improves shifting ... slightly. It is very important to use the correct fluid and the modern fluids are excellent in terms of how long they last compared to earlier formulations. Previous cars include, in reverse chronological order: '03 Honda S2000, '93 Mazda Miata, '00 Honda S2000, '96 Mustang GT, '89 Honda Civic Si, '79 VW Scirocco, '68 VW Type 1 (Beetle), and '69 VW Type 3 (Squareback).
 
#15 ·
Nothing is sealed for life. There's always a way in.

The whole sealed transmission thing is simply a way for manufacturers to look cool on paper.

90% of the cars won't ever reach 200k miles. Most will be crashed and the rest will be driven nice and easy and take many many years to reach such mileage. I'm sure auto manufacturers know this and if the fluid is of high quality and the transmission is sealed (meaning there's no way for contamination to get in, and degrade the oil) then that oil perhaps has a chance to last 200k miles before eventually going bad slowly but at that point, the rest of the car will probably be falling apart and the transmission, which is now shifting a bit harsher then it was when new, will be the least of your worries.

I just don't believe in oil that can last 200k, 300k, or 500k miles and 10, 15, or 25 years inside the transmission and not degrade and be in need of changing. I call BS. Mazda and other manufacturers simply know that 90% of the owners won't ever get that much use out of the car.

Go check out the cars at your local junk yards. Most are under 200k.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I'm practically at 50k miles on mine and maybe the recent cold weather has something to do with it but shifting has been extra crunchy lately (even wifey mentioned it, LOL) so I bought two quarts of Lube to flush the transmission out. I'll post pics of what the oil looks like when I change it this Sunday. This will be the 3rd time the fluid is changed in my beater.

Remember that it's modded with intake and full catback exhaust and OV Tuned on 93 octane. I also have a short shifter and a stiff engine torque mount, so shifting is very firm and direct without any shifter play or engine movement. It's very easy to FEEL the gears and notice even the SLIGHTEST shift that isn't buttery smooth. This has instantly cured for me with a simple fluid change to dump out the metal shavings that get in the way of smooth operation, since there's no damn oil filter in the transmission (I find this strange, to be honest with you)

We also rev the piss out of it (higher redline then stock) and drive it HARD on the street daily. The 2.0L works overtime to produce FULL POWER so I can haul ass around slowpokes. Lol.

Zero issues with the car up to this point. :Racing 1:
 
#23 ·
I change engine oil and filter way more than must, for example always do an extra change of both at 1,000 miles.

However, I have driven over 2,000,000 miles on 52 manual transmission vehicles and never once changed the transmission fluid (seven vehicles over 150,000 miles each) -- and never once have had a transmission issue. Some vehicles were motorcross bikes which as we know, get severe usage (some would say punishment), again not a single tranny issue...

We all get to choose our level of fluid replacement. Mazda dealer, you will not be changing my manual trans fluid...
 
#24 ·
Given that the age of the average American vehicle is 11 years, it's mostly true manual transmissions don't need their fluid changed for the life of its ownership.

Fluid in automatics need regular changing because it heats up often and there's a lot of wear. Manuals don't, even with fast and furious shifting.

Even though the owner's guide says it's not needed, I will change mine around 10 years or 100k. I've read good things about Ford MotorCraft.
 
#25 ·
I don't know how you guy can go 100k without touching it. I start feeling the gears get rougher after about 15k on the fluid and with a simple drain n fill of the 1.8qts, the gears feel MUCH smoother and glide like butter afterward for the next 15k miles of ABUSE.

Maybe if I shifted like the tach suggests (sometimes at 1,500rpm into a lower gear :-0 and never run it to redline and beyond, I could see the fluid lasting longer but both me and wifey CONSTANTLY floor it and redline 1st and 2nd gear around town daily probably 20-30 times without thinking twice.

I'll just continue abusing the car while maintaining it using the EXTREMELY SEVERE service interval that isn't even in the owners manual. Lol.
 
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