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I'm running on miles. However, recently, I've been running that snake oil from Lucas. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Cylinder-Lubrication-Injector-Cleaner/dp/B000ARPVOI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lucas+treatment&qid=1577391806&sr=8-5

After multiple tanks and a whole bottle which comes out to a cost of .08 per gallon for usage. I can say this, my gas mileage on the freeway 70-75 hasn't changed much at all. But in the moderate speeds 40-50mph it's certainly spiked up a bit. I've also gained back a ton of low end power this car once had and was slowly losing over time due to what I thought was age. Even my bigger tires break traction like they did when the car was new.
 

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Oil all over it
What were the sign and symptoms of your bad hydraulic tensioner?
Oil all over it and slipping belt which made some noise every time I had the air conditioner on and would rev it.

When you replace it, I recommend letting a shop or a dealer replace it. I bought one off ebay with factory part number etc. that ended up failing in less than a year with the plastic piece on top failing. So, I ended up buying one from Oriellly and it's certainly not better than factory design. But it was solid enough and haven't had any problems yet.
 

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If I were planning to keep a car that long (and I might with this car as it's not only a great vehicle for the category it's in, but it'll probably be my last internal combustion vehicle as there's a Tesla Model 3 Performance out there with my name on it someday), I'd buy some OEM parts while they're still available as new and keep them on a shelf on the garage.

They'd include:

  • The hydraulic tensioner
  • L & R halfshafts
  • F & R Hub & Bearing assemblies
 

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If I were planning to keep a car that long (and I might with this car as it's not only a great vehicle for the category it's in, but it'll probably be my last internal combustion vehicle as there's a Tesla Model 3 Performance out there with my name on it someday), I'd buy some OEM parts while they're still available as new and keep them on a shelf on the garage.

They'd include:

  • The hydraulic tensioner
  • L & R halfshafts
  • F & R Hub & Bearing assemblies

I hear ya, my work bought me a prius prime, and I actually love plugging it in. My average fuel mileage on it has been 62mpg since new. Doesn't handle as well but it has a host of other benefits.
 

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How many miles per set of tires are you getting out of those Falkens? I have the Goodyear 16s and they are pretty bouncy...thinking of my next ones...
 

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If you are getting bouncy ride on the tires, that's likely something to do with the suspension and tire inflation combo. Try increasing the PSI or decreasing it(within 10 psi of 35 psi) and see if it makes a difference.
 

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Great feed. Love the info. Have a 2017 sport. 46k. I also drive a lot for work, mostly freeway in Phoenix area. Getting 34mpg combined with 16 inch Falkens.
 

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2014 with 300K miles wow...I thought 250K Kilometers was alot on my 2012. I have used the Lucas additve (gas stabilizer /upper valve lube stuff) . I switched to using Liqui Moly additves... especially Ceratec for high mileage and even the liqui moly motor oil saver to here re hydrate valve seals and gaskets.
 

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2014 with 300K miles wow...I thought 250K Kilometers was alot on my 2012. I have used the Lucas additve (gas stabilizer /upper valve lube stuff) . I switched to using Liqui Moly additves... especially Ceratec for high mileage and even the liqui moly motor oil saver to here re hydrate valve seals and gaskets.
You've done well so far, but curious to see how far it goes. Most cars can break 300k kms without a problem these days. It's beyond that where shit happens. I had an old Hyundai accent previously and it went over 320k kms before I sent it to the junkyard. It still ran fine, but there was too much other stuff breaking down to be worthwhile my time fixing.

I'm more of the opinion that additives generally do very little if not nothing. I never use anything truth be told. So I'm curious how far you'll get putting that stuff in your car compared to those who do not. I'm certainly not going to tell you what you should or should not be putting into your engine, it's your car to do with as you wish after all.
 

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You've done well so far, but curious to see how far it goes. Most cars can break 300k kms without a problem these days. It's beyond that where shit happens. I had an old Hyundai accent previously and it went over 320k kms before I sent it to the junkyard. It still ran fine, but there was too much other stuff breaking down to be worthwhile my time fixing.

I'm more of the opinion that additives generally do very little if not nothing. I never use anything truth be told. So I'm curious how far you'll get putting that stuff in your car compared to those who do not. I'm certainly not going to tell you what you should or should not be putting into your engine, it's your car to do with as you wish after all.

Hey Thanks for the feedback.
So far so good ... I have been running only 0w20 and oem filter until about 230K KMs ... Only recently on Liqui Moly 5w30 Molygen oil. Its actually green florescent so it its leaking you can see it on the pavement / engine. Went higher weight Mechanic recommendation (when hes not in the shop he is on the track). I track the car engine runs amazing. I upgraded everything around the engine so the engine load is less. Turned a GX sedan into a nice little sport/fun car. Correct about parts /problems coming in the 300k ... ive already started upgrading or replacing parts in advance that are have to replaced later on or have heard on the TM3 forum. You should join the Toronto Mazda 3 forum if you live in ON. Alot of resources there like on here.
 

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Hey Thanks for the feedback.
So far so good ... I have been running only 0w20 and oem filter until about 230K KMs ... Only recently on Liqui Moly 5w30 Molygen oil. Its actually green florescent so it its leaking you can see it on the pavement / engine. Went higher weight Mechanic recommendation (when hes not in the shop he is on the track). I track the car engine runs amazing. I upgraded everything around the engine so the engine load is less. Turned a GX sedan into a nice little sport/fun car. Correct about parts /problems coming in the 300k ... ive already started upgrading or replacing parts in advance that are have to replaced later on or have heard on the TM3 forum. You should join the Toronto Mazda 3 forum if you live in ON. Alot of resources there like on here.
Yeah I'll probably give it a look. I've always loved this car since the day I got it, but I'm also cheap lol. I do my own maintenance as both a hobby and money saving venture. Therefore, she's stock. I'm too cheap and lazy to upgrade anything.
 

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Yeah I'll probably give it a look. I've always loved this car since the day I got it, but I'm also cheap lol. I do my own maintenance as both a hobby and money saving venture. Therefore, she's stock. I'm too cheap and lazy to upgrade anything.
Hey i get it..for 7 years i did regular oil changes and required maintenance...she ran amazing. Even better now. So when the time came to consider upgrading ( divorced/adult kids/sortof getting to mid life crisis)...what i wanted was too expensive (GT3) and anything new sporty was atleast $500+ per month ($6000 per year) . So thats my bugdet to play with every year on this car and shes rust free ... its a no brainer.
 

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Hey i get it..for 7 years i did regular oil changes and required maintenance...she ran amazing. Even better now. So when the time came to consider upgrading ( divorced/adult kids/sortof getting to mid life crisis)...what i wanted was too expensive (GT3) and anything new sporty was atleast $500+ per month ($6000 per year) . So thats my bugdet to play with every year on this car and shes rust free ... its a no brainer.
I'm kinda in the same boat. I was divorced nearly 10 years ago and now have a little boy turning 3 in the spring. Life's good, but not much time for my old hobbies. Plus I work a pretty rediculous shift schedule which doesn't help.

I really wanted to get an old Toyota Supra and put a 2jz into it or even a 1jz would have been fun but the cost and time I'd need to put into it was just way too much. Plus unless you're on the track, you really can't use something like that on our roads.

So I leaned to be happy with a 3 that handles very well and a stick shift to keep me entertained.

Still, I do enjoy tinkering. Solving a problem under the hood is a lot like a puzzle to me.
 

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Hey same here ..divorced 10 years too moved toronto from montreal...my kids are older and both moved to TO. Supra would be nice ...im kinda leaning toward a 3rd gen mx5 or an RX7. as a second hobby car.
 

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You've done well so far, but curious to see how far it goes. Most cars can break 300k kms without a problem these days. It's beyond that where shit happens. I had an old Hyundai accent previously and it went over 320k kms before I sent it to the junkyard. It still ran fine, but there was too much other stuff breaking down to be worthwhile my time fixing.

I'm more of the opinion that additives generally do very little if not nothing. I never use anything truth be told. So I'm curious how far you'll get putting that stuff in your car compared to those who do not. I'm certainly not going to tell you what you should or should not be putting into your engine, it's your car to do with as you wish after all.
In general you are correct.

But, I've had good luck with this on the Mazda3. One bottle treats basically 10 tanks of fuel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPVOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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In general you are correct.

But, I've had good luck with this on the Mazda3. One bottle treats basically 10 tanks of fuel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPVOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My question would be what would have been the result without this product? I honestly don't care what you want to put in your fuel tank, this is more of a semi-scientific exercise.

My experience has been that injector cleaners are rarely required if at all provided that you're putting decent fuel in it. All fuel in Canada and the US already has detergents in it right from the pump. Similar to washing your clothes, adding more detergent doesn't help any. If it's clean, it's clean. I'm at 150k kms and never used any. Never used it on my previous vehicles either and never a problem.
 

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Bravo, what intervals are you changing spark plugs. Good to know you have not had to replace injectors or have had carbon fouling issues. Highway miles are really easy on vehicles. I really enjoy my Mazda 2.5s, the 6MT is not great but otherwise its a lovely automobile!

I am curious how long the motors in the active headlights will last.....
 

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My question would be what would have been the result without this product? I honestly don't care what you want to put in your fuel tank, this is more of a semi-scientific exercise.

My experience has been that injector cleaners are rarely required if at all provided that you're putting decent fuel in it. All fuel in Canada and the US already has detergents in it right from the pump. Similar to washing your clothes, adding more detergent doesn't help any. If it's clean, it's clean. I'm at 150k kms and never used any. Never used it on my previous vehicles either and never a problem.

Actually, I didn't use it for 200k, then I used it. Every tank got better until around tank 6. Especially on the low end with the 2k hole pretty much gone. Going from not being able to lose traction in first to being able to do so again like I could during the first 75-100k or so. Nothing else changed during time frame.
 

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Actually, I didn't use it for 200k, then I used it. Every tank got better until around tank 6. Especially on the low end with the 2k hole pretty much gone. Going from not being able to lose traction in first to being able to do so again like I could during the first 75-100k or so. Nothing else changed during time frame.

Interesting...I have noted no such problems. I'm starting to wonder how our fuel quality differs.
 
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