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M3TH (Mazda 3 Turbo Hatchback 2021) Polymetal Grey PP
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With the new brake set up. Powersport Z23 drilled and sloted rear rotors with ceramic pads and Ceramic pads for the OEM front rotors,,,,,,, it's a day and night performance. Remember the beding is a very important component after install.
 

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2021 Mazda 3 Premium Plus Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
With the new brake set up. Powersport Z23 drilled and slotted rear rotors with ceramic pads and Ceramic pads for the OEM front rotors,,,,,,, it's a day and night performance. Remember the beding is a very important component after install.
Sorry took a bit to get back to you. I saw you got in contact with them. SP is moving to Connecticut, guess I had good timing on getting mine. Spent the weekend flushing the old B. Fluid cleaning the Calipers and, (against my better judgment), painting them. Extra 5hp when they are red I'm told! Definitely happy with the color and braking improvements.
 

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Sorry took a bit to get back to you. I saw you got in contact with them. SP is moving to Connecticut, guess I had good timing on getting mine. Spent the weekend flushing the old B. Fluid cleaning the Calipers and, (against my better judgment), painting them. Extra 5hp when they are red I'm told! Definitely happy with the color and braking improvements.
Good decision on painting the calipers. Cheapest 5 hp you can get. As long as you bed it right,,,, it's a night and day performance. No more sponginess or waiting for brakeboost.
 

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Agree with @arathol about Tires being your first better way to go faster and stop faster.
The other is .. upgrade your brake pads - better compound and then go bigger in the front with rotors ( no need to increase rear rotor size)
Braided brake lines do that too .
I see this so many times at the track / open lapping. just this weekend BMW M4 and BRZ going on with oem pads and they heating up and fading and starting to cook and smoke after a few laps. Its maybe not your daily conditions but if you are a spirited driver / aggressive driver you want every foot of stoppping distance.
Takeaway for daily drive use is having less fade but overall upgraded pads will reduce stopping distance.
Upgrading rotors (front and rear) the thought is to go better materials / bigger or same size and without increasing weight.
 

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Agree with @arathol about Tires being your first better way to go faster and stop faster.
The other is .. upgrade your brake pads - better compound and then go bigger in the front with rotors ( no need to increase rear rotor size)
Braided brake lines do that too .
I see this so many times at the track / open lapping. just this weekend BMW M4 and BRZ going on with oem pads and they heating up and fading and starting to cook and smoke after a few laps. Its maybe not your daily conditions but if you are a spirited driver / aggressive driver you want every foot of stoppping distance.
Takeaway for daily drive use is having less fade but overall upgraded pads will reduce stopping distance.
Upgrading rotors (front and rear) the thought is to go better materials / bigger or same size and without increasing weight.
I have experienced brake fade on only one daily driver and when I pressed the pedal down and had very little brake it scared me at first only to learn what was going on at the time. It will definitely get your attention.
 

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M3TH (Mazda 3 Turbo Hatchback 2021) Polymetal Grey PP
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Just a question, I purchased a new ceramic brake pads and used it with my stock brake rotors. I bed the brake pads based on the manufacturers instructions. Now if I install a new rotor in the next week or month SHOULD I do the bedding process again? COULD I still bed this brake pads since I already bed it before?
 

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The bedding process transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor face. New rotors means you probably should repeat the bedding process.
Will the Bedded pads still able to transfer material to the new rotors or those pads are already "cooked".
 

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I won’t argue, only just mention I just put tires on one our trucks and I promise the contact patch is longer (and wider for that matter), I went from a 265/65-17 to a 285/75-17.
The OP mentioned going to a 19” wheel to fill in the wheel gap, I don’t know how much it would change to patch shape but it will, I suspect the extra leverage from larger diameter wheel/tire combo may hurt some of the new found braking performance or perhaps not, if the weight it less than stock it will help with momentum.
It's the jump from 265 width to 285 width that helped, likewise, it depends on how wide of 19" he goes with, the wheel diameter doesn't matter.
 

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I just ordered the z23 brake pads for front and rear... will eventually do the CS BBK for the front and full z23 w/rotors for the rear. Started by upgrading from the stock 215/45/18 et45 on touring tires to a 235/40/18 UHP all season on 3lb lighter 18x8 et40 wheels, all for only $1200 total out the door with tire certificates, nearly identical to stock total diameter and sidewall.

I only had the stocks on for less than a week, the difference is night and day, Mazda really shouldn't have cut cost in the wheel/tire dept. so much! Less weird dead center steering feel, better handling with much better quick maneuvering response, more absorption of rear torsion shudder over bumps and yes... improved braking, as when you have better grip the tires won't let loose triggering ABS, it's really the first step in better braking!
 

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It's the jump from 265 width to 285 width that helped, likewise, it depends on how wide of 19" he goes with, the wheel diameter doesn't matter.
The OP mentioned running 19s instead of dropping the car to close the wheel well gap. Extra width will add tire height but to keep the tire from looking “taller” a 19 would matter.
“FYI When these tires get swapped out the heavy stock rims will become winters and 19’s will be run for summer rather than dropping in order to close wheel well gap.”
 

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The OP mentioned running 19s instead of dropping the car to close the wheel well gap. Extra width will add tire height but to keep the tire from looking “taller” a 19 would matter.
“FYI When these tires get swapped out the heavy stock rims will become winters and 19’s will be run for summer rather than dropping in order to close wheel well gap.”
OK, but he would have to run 235/30/19's to keep the same overall diameter, all to eat up 1/2" (half the additional wheel size) and would be pretty spendy for just 1/2" less gap, but that's just me looking at the value quotient. I guess if you can afford a nice set of 19's and the more expensive tires and have separate winters that works too... Looking at tire size calculations could prob do 235/35/19's I guess... But my original comment was in regards to what you had been saying, it's the width that gives you additional contact patch/traction, regardless of wheel diameter or sidewall ratio.
 

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@Sprocket_mzzoom
Finally received my front slotted diamond front rotors from SP Performance. Installing this tomorrow. Compliments my rear Power Stop Z23 slotted drilled rotors., front and back on Z23 ceramic break pads.


 

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@Sprocket_mzzoom
Finally received my front slotted diamond front rotors from SP Performance. Installing this tomorrow. Compliments my rear Power Stop Z23 slotted drilled rotors., front and back on Z23 ceramic break pads.


Since they aren't officially listed on their web site, may I ask what they are charging for those front rotors? Looking good, TIA!
 
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