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2021 Mazda 3 Premium Plus Turbo
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So after waiting and searching I finally found sensible and affordable rotor and brake pad upgrades for the AWD Turbo. Now here is the reason I say sensible and it was my reasoning and just my opinion as well as my cash...If you don't agree that's fine because its your money as well so do as you wish, as we all should in life, IMO. My requirements were as follows...
1. Same size as stock so it was easy to change back to OEM at any time.
2. No need to use shims or spacers (most* big brake kits require wheel spacers due to new caliper size)
3. Ability to size rim up or down at change of seasons, (I live in snow belt, larger rotors would limit smaller rim to accommodate a larger tire profile)
4. Ability to use the stock spare tire in the event of a flat, (larger rotor and wheel spacers would leave me stranded waiting for a tow)
5. Less Brake dust and quieter/smoother braking
6. Shorter braking distance and quicker response at higher speeds
7. Don't br the bank, Its only a 300lb car with less than 300hp, No NEED for 6 puck calipers,

I went with...

1. SP Performance Drilled, Slotted and Vented Silver ZRC coated front rotors using Carbon Ceramic Pads / (F26-810-P) Rotors and Front pads (CD2218)
Ordered directly through SP Performance / Under $250 Delivered

2. PowerStop Drilled and slotted Silver ZRC coated rear rotors using Carbon Ceramic Pads as well / Z23 EVOLUTION SPORT BRAKE UPGRADE KIT PN# K8334
Ordered Through Rock Auto / Under $140 Delivered

(6-6-2022 edit added #3 below)

3. Upgraded from Dot 3 fluid to full synthetic Prestone Max Dot 4 brake fluid.

All less than $400 for everything on all 4 corners. Wanted to add stainless braided lines but still cant find them.

Got to be able to slow it down quicker before I make it quicker LOL!! I just think paying 1300+ for 2 wheels w/6 pistons is nuts! then you have to use spacers and your screwed if you need to use a spare and that's just for the front and you are stuck with their pads for life. All that size and $$$$ to stop a 3100lb car, LOL this should improve braking astronomically as well as less dust, noise, weight, heat and better looking and less rusting then the OEM's.
These hit all the marks and definitely exceeded my expectations. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade and brings the braking up to the level the Prem + turbo 3 should have straight from Japan….now onward.😝
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Plant
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Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Car


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Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Car

Added some VHT Caliper paint 🎨. Couldn't help myself.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood
 

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Agreed, If your breaking traction. Thats not the case here though.
Uhhh, no.....better tires will allow you to stop faster regardless. Those Turanzas are below average mediocre midgrade touring tires at best. If you are going to put better brakes on the car, a tire that is more performance oriented will allow you to use those brakes.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Uhhh, no.....better tires will allow you to stop faster regardless. Those Turanzas are below average mediocre midgrade touring tires at best. If you are going to put better brakes on the car, a tire that is more performance oriented will allow you to use those brakes.....
The Stocks are average agreed. However the biggest complaint is the car is vastly under power in the braking department. Also I stated what “I” was looking for as a start. Wasn't asking an opinion, just putting the option out there. FYI When these tires get swapped out the heavy stock rims will become winters and 19’s will be run for summer rather than dropping in order to close wheel well gap. To each his or her own. Your money your choice. Cheers
 

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The Stocks are average agreed. However the biggest complaint is the car is vastly under power in the braking department. Also I stated what “I” was looking for as a start. Wasn't asking an opinion, just putting the option out there. FYI When these tires get swapped out the heavy stock rims will become winters and 19’s will be run for summer rather than dropping in order to close wheel well gap. To each his or her own. Your money your choice. Cheers
I'll agree with Arathol on the importance of tires to braking. In my 2003 Accord, it came OEM with crappy tires and I complained about the brakes, but when I put some sticky, wider Continentals on that transformed the grip, it felt like braking distances also were noticeably better. More grip / traction not only improves launching and turning, but stopping too.
 

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Other question...this was $400 in parts, which isn't too bad at all...how much was the labor (or did you do the work yourself)? I never complained about my 3's brakes until I got it on a track and then I noticed they could def. be stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll agree with Arathol on the importance of tires to braking. In my 2003 Accord, it came OEM with crappy tires and I complained about the brakes, but when I put some sticky, wider Continentals on that transformed the grip, it felt like braking distances also were noticeably better. More grip / traction not only improves launching and turning, but stopping too.
Agree…if you are breaking traction than you are loosing grip there by increasing breaking distance. If you can’t slow the tires down quick you won’t ever break traction. The ability to slow the tire down is the first step, maintaining grip/traction is the second step. Stickiest tire in the world wont help you In a straight line if you cant slow the rotation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Other question...this was $400 in parts, which isn't too bad at all...how much was the labor (or did you do the work yourself)? I never complained about my 3's brakes until I got it on a track and then I noticed they could def. be stronger.
Tracking definitely makes you aware of this however “Attempting” Rapid deceleration at highway speeds can be pretty scary at times too. I installed myself. Task difficulty depends on your mechanical ability. If you cant change your oil or spark plugs by yourself…I wouldn’t start with this project alone. Lotts of reference materials out there if you want to learn though. I’ve worked on my own cars and friends since I was in my teens now late 40’s. It took me around 2.5-3 hrs without rushing while and showing my 17yr old and using crank jack, jack stands, socket and hex sets not to mention a nice rubber mallet, (if you know you know). The idea was to do it using basic inexpensive tools for my son to learn with. Good luck, both on and off the track.
 

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Tracking definitely makes you aware of this however “Attempting” Rapid deceleration at highway speeds can be pretty scary at times too. I installed myself. Task difficulty depends on your mechanical ability. If you cant change your oil or spark plugs by yourself…I wouldn’t start with this project alone. Lotts of reference materials out there if you want to learn though. I’ve worked on my own cars and friends since I was in my teens now late 40’s. It took me around 2.5-3 hrs without rushing while and showing my 17yr old and using crank jack, jack stands, socket and hex sets not to mention a nice rubber mallet, (if you know you know). The idea was to do it using basic inexpensive tools for my son to learn with. Good luck, both on and off the track.
That's awesome...def a good value for a big brake upgrade. I can change my oil, but given how 'mission critical' brakes can be, I'd maybe leave that to a pro lol.
 

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Tracking definitely makes you aware of this however “Attempting” Rapid deceleration at highway speeds can be pretty scary at times too. I installed myself. Task difficulty depends on your mechanical ability. If you cant change your oil or spark plugs by yourself…I wouldn’t start with this project alone. Lotts of reference materials out there if you want to learn though. I’ve worked on my own cars and friends since I was in my teens now late 40’s. It took me around 2.5-3 hrs without rushing while and showing my 17yr old and using crank jack, jack stands, socket and hex sets not to mention a nice rubber mallet, (if you know you know). The idea was to do it using basic inexpensive tools for my son to learn with. Good luck, both on and off the track.
I’m happy to hear you’re, first passing on some knowledge to the next generation and second using proper safe steps/gear (jack stands). I really enjoy the automotive hobby and have seen so much in my lifetime and I’ve seen and learned from many different people, some of the first things to learn (after you learn proper removal/installation of the wheels/tires) is how to properly secure the car with the wheels off the ground to allow removal of the wheels.
 

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The Stocks are average agreed. However the biggest complaint is the car is vastly under power in the braking department. Also I stated what “I” was looking for as a start. Wasn't asking an opinion, just putting the option out there. FYI When these tires get swapped out the heavy stock rims will become winters and 19’s will be run for summer rather than dropping in order to close wheel well gap. To each his or her own. Your money your choice. Cheers
If you have a taller tire/wheel combo it will change the gear ratio which can affect your acceleration but it also gives a longer contact patch which adds traction, it does add more leverage the brakes have to stop, I changed wheels and tires to something lighter with the idea of adding a big brake kit in the future. If you’re happy though congratulations, I know better friction coefficient will most definitely add stopping power. More rotor will add more “meat” to dump heat into. My fear is brake fade after lots of hard driving.
 

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If you have a taller tire/wheel combo it will change the gear ratio which can affect your acceleration but it also gives a longer contact patch which adds traction
Umm....no....The only way to change the shape of the contact patch is either change the width of the tire or change the pressure. Changing the diameter does not do anything.
 

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Umm....no....The only way to change the shape of the contact patch is either change the width of the tire or change the pressure. Changing the diameter does not do anything.
Yes it does, high horsepower drag cars have taller tires (wider as well) for the longer contact patch, the prime objective is pure acceleration, on some of the cars the tires increase in diameter as they travel down the track which is like have extra gearing and it adds speed.
Air pressure does affect contact patch as well, off roaders lower it but the desired effect is a more pliable tire and larger contact patch for more traction, of course the low pressure would cause the tire to heat up if driven anywhere near hwy speeds.
 

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Yes it does, high horsepower drag cars have taller tires (wider as well) for the longer contact patch, the prime objective is pure acceleration, on some of the cars the tires increase in diameter as they travel down the track which is like have extra gearing and it adds speed.
Air pressure does affect contact patch as well, off roaders lower it but the desired effect is a more pliable tire and larger contact patch for more traction, of course the low pressure would cause the tire to heat up if driven anywhere near hwy speeds.
Again, no.......apples and oranges.....The dynamics of how drag car ties work just don't apply to passenger car tires. Drag car tires work by using expanding sidewalls that allow the tire to change diameter. Changing diameter increases the final drive ratio, and when the tire changes diameter they get much narrower. A narrower tire changes the contact patch to a much more favorable shape for forward acceleration, ie long and thin. It does not however change the size of the contact patch.
The size contact patch is determined solely by the weight of the car, and the shape is ultimately determined by the width of the tire. A wide tire has a contact patch that is wider L to R, but shorter F to R. A narrower tire has a contact patch that is not as wide but a bit longer. However it is shaped though it will cover the same surface area no matter the tire diameter.
 

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I won’t argue, only just mention I just put tires on one our trucks and I promise the contact patch is longer (and wider for that matter), I went from a 265/65-17 to a 285/75-17.
The OP mentioned going to a 19” wheel to fill in the wheel gap, I don’t know how much it would change to patch shape but it will, I suspect the extra leverage from larger diameter wheel/tire combo may hurt some of the new found braking performance or perhaps not, if the weight it less than stock it will help with momentum.
 

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M3TH (Mazda 3 Turbo Hatchback 2021) Polymetal Grey PP
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@Sprocket_mzzoom
My rear Z23 brake kit is comming this Monday. I have been looking for a front brake kit. Can you share me the link, contact number or contact person where I can order the SP Performance F26-810-P.
 

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No stocks at this time.They are in the process of transferring their manufacturing plant.
 
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