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Has your Skyactiv engine made it over 200K miles without major repair?

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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'll first say that I'm not having any major issues and no minor issues with engine or manual transmission. However, I'm trying to decide how long my car may make as the miles continue to progress.

Starting at the beginning, I've bought my 2012 2.0L Skyactiv Hatchback when it had just 6,800 miles. As for maintenance, I've always used Mobile1 extended performance synthetic for all oil/filter changes every 7K miles or so, give or take, performed by me. I've replaced tires a few times, brakes and rotors, wiper blades, air filter, spark plugs at 150K miles (I wouldn't have gone that far, but I had no issues at all, and I did use the factory plugs since they had no sign of wear even at 150K and even the gaps will still correct), headlight bulbs, etc. However, I've never had a major or even minor repair. I finally did the rear shocks about 6 months ago. Still haven't done the front struts. Also, I haven't changed the manual transmission fluid.

Other minor issues: Sometimes the rear doors show on the dash that they are open. Easily addressed with a little WD-40 and working the mechanism to address the sensor. Sometimes the rear hatch doesn't work when you unlock the car with the key FOB. No biggie, just lock it and try again. Around 60K miles, I got the slight shudder in 1st gear when starting cold, but after a few shifts (manual), the issue doesn't happen again in the same day. That issue continues through today, but doesn't seem to affect anything. The inside door lock controls on the passenger side doesn't work. Again, no issue since I don't really care.

At this point in its life, I think I'm just going to run it until it gives way or other major repairs. I am a home mechanic and have swapped engines and done major repairs which brings me to my questions:
1. I've never replaced the clutch in my manual transmission. I'm sure it has to give up at some point, but that is not a show stopper when it starts to act up. Until then, I'm thinking I'll let it ride. Does anyone know how long the clutch really lasts in these manual transmissions? I've driving manual transmission vehicles for years and even my old Dodge pickup went 200K on the original clutch.
2. I've never replaced the timing chain or tensioner. At this point, it may be cheaper to get a new short block (replacing myself) for this same engine if it does have a problem with the interference engine and damage incurred by bent rods, etc. However, that might be just when it is time to get a newer vehicle. The engine has always been a little loud when you first start it until the auto idle calms down. However, still no sounds of clicking or clacking from the timing chain (and yes, I'm very familiar with how this sounds as I've worked on many vehicles with stretched timing chains or failed tensioners).
3. I've never used a fuel additive or injector cleaners. I have never noticed a change in power or anything like that. It still gets, on average with a heavy foot, around 37.3 average mpg. Also, at this point, I'd be afraid that dislodging something would cause other damage. In addition, my car does not burn oil at all. I check it often, but clearly the rings are still happy since I'm usually only 1/4 quart down in oil when it comes to the 7K oil change.

I've never really been particularly kind to the vehicle and I do floor it regularly, even to higher RPM. I used to race rally cars back in the 90s and I do match RPM during manual gear changes. I know that many will chastise me for the lack of regular maintenance with respect to coolant flushes, timing chain, injector cleaning, etc. However, you can't really argue with how far I've made it without issues. I know that I'm living a relatively 'charmed' life as it relates to not a lot of maintenance care on this vehicle. Really, I'm curious about the feedback on the 3 elements listed above. Are there others out there who have just primarily done spark plugs, regular oil changes, etc. and are still going along strong?

I am very familiar with cars and maintenance and there's no need to give me a bunch of things that I should have already done. This is my primary commuter car and it is no sweat off my back if it does quit. I have other cars I can drive while doing a major repair or shopping for a newer replacement vehicle. Like I said, I'm mainly curious if there are other folks out there that are experiencing similar positive reliability.
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5 non sky
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2012 non Sky 2.0L
1.OEM Clutch is dependant on driver - my opnion as mine had to change at 200k kms and it was the throw out bearing that melted
2. I tracked and autox this car at the 200K kms mark and at 238K a rod bearing wore out and i had the engine rebuilt and not continue to track and autox with it.
(I can detail the upgrades that went into the engine if you want to go that route )
3. I have used injection cleaners and oil flushes from the beginning to keep it all as clean as possible/residue/glum free as possible. I am finding the local fuels as gumming injectors with ethanols if car remains idle too long. I only use 91 ron with no ethonal.
 

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2012 non Sky 2.0L
1.OEM Clutch is dependant on driver - my opnion as mine had to change at 200k kms and it was the throw out bearing that melted
2. I tracked and autox this car at the 200K kms mark and at 238K a rod bearing wore out and i had the engine rebuilt and not continue to track and autox with it.
(I can detail the upgrades that went into the engine if you want to go that route )
3. I have used injection cleaners and oil flushes from the beginning to keep it all as clean as possible/residue/glum free as possible. I am finding the local fuels as gumming injectors with ethanols if car remains idle too long. I only use 91 ron with no ethonal.
You probably mean 91 AKI (Anti Knock Index). That's the same as (MON+RON)÷2. It actually used to be known as CLC 91, CLC being "Cost-of-Living Council". Strange way of describing it. It's actually the average between "Motor Octane Number" and "Research Octane Number".
 

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2012 Mazda 3 GX MT5 non sky
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You probably mean 91 AKI (Anti Knock Index). That's the same as (MON+RON)÷2. It actually used to be known as CLC 91, CLC being "Cost-of-Living Council". Strange way of describing it. It's actually the average between "Motor Octane Number" and "Research Octane Number".
My bad
What i Call 91 gas in the USA/Can(actually measure as 91 AKI ) = 95 RON worldwide.
My point being the 91 gas sold here locally at Shell is non ethanol contaminated.
Ethanol is an inexpensive way to increase the RON or AKI in a gas.
If you want to stay away from ethanol here is a website that list them across USA & Can
 
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2013 Mazda 3 i Hatchback
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I'd just continue with the regular fluid changes and normal maintenance. With that many miles, the car doesn't owe you a thing. At some point, there will be a failure that will cost more to fix than the car is worth. At that point you pat it on the dashboard, thank it for its loyal service, and trade it in on a new one. :)
 
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