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What numbers did you want? The dyno just went up on Wednesday. I am sure he will post something very soon.

It ran the 1/4 mile at [email protected] mph on with the Dragy on 91 octane pump gas. If you look at published data from the usual sources that is some 4-5 tenths faster and 3-4 mph increase vs the stock car/tune. You don't need a dyno and all magazines use is a more complicated version of the VBox, the Dragy is just as accurate.
What numbers did you want? The dyno just went up on Wednesday. I am sure he will post something very soon.
Dyno numbers.....something that actually indicates results.
Actual real world testing posted by actual owners indicates that 5.5 - 5.6 with 91 octane is doable with the factory tune. Car and Driver recorded 5.6 and 14.1 @ 99 for a 2021 car with crappy OEM tires. So, not that big a deal after all. Again, the slight difference can be attributed to the driver, differences in conditions, test methods, margin of error in the timing equipment, etc... Cut a full second off, then come back and post the dyno numbers.....
 

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Err, it gives you a general idea of acceleration. You guys are a little much.
Again, only if its a repeatable significant gain. A couple tenths is meaningless....new tires can do that....
Also, how many drag races are you doing? Realworld driving like accelerating and merging into a highway lane is more telling, or passing at speed on a two lane road. 30 - 60mph or 40 - 70 numbers would be more important.
 

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Again, only if its a repeatable significant gain. A couple tenths is meaningless....new tires can do that....
Also, how many drag races are you doing? Realworld driving like accelerating and merging into a highway lane is more telling, or passing at speed on a two lane road. 30 - 60mph or 40 - 70 numbers would be more important.
[email protected] is not that close to [email protected] speaking as an experience drag racer. That's about a 20 whp gain from the beta JB4 box.

Terry thinks the MAF sensor is preventing more power from being gained.
 

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Hey @arathol have you heard of DIMSPORT from Italy .
Their ECU/Tuning solutions supports many but not all Mazda and other car brands.
A simple plug n play with and offer learn to map on their platform.
Many Skyactiv tuning applications but not all Mazda 3 models and engines.
 

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Why is 0-60 so important when so many other factors enter into it? Somebody needs to explain this to me, it can't because I'm too old.
Err, it gives you a general idea of acceleration. You guys are a little much.
Again, only if its a repeatable significant gain. A couple tenths is meaningless....new tires can do that....
Also, how many drag races are you doing? Realworld driving like accelerating and merging into a highway lane is more telling, or passing at speed on a two lane road. 30 - 60mph or 40 - 70 numbers would be more important.
Gas powered cars with faster 0-60 times generally have better overall acceleration. Close to half a second feels very different and is easy to tell. Basically a Mazda 6 with the 2.5 T and the Mazda 3 with a 2.5T.

You seem very against the idea of the 2.5T and any modifications of it. Can I ask why?
 

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[email protected] is not that close to [email protected] speaking as an experience drag racer. That's about a 20 whp gain from the beta JB4 box.
Since this isn't a drag car or a bracket racer built for exacting consistency, not really relevant. There are lots of factors that can produce widely variable times from the same car. A quarter of a second in real world testing of a street car by different sources is not that unexpected. That is one 0-60 time, is it repeatable by more than one driver under different conditions?
Don't guess at hp. Post actual numbers and a dyno plot....

Terry thinks the MAF sensor is preventing more power from being gained.
What is the reasoning there? Restriction, design, sensors not capable of handling the flow?
This was posted in that thread on the tuning -
I'm finding it's easy to add torque (I can blow the tires off the line now), but something is holding back the power gains.
Its been said that there are apparently some limiters in 1st and 2nd gear. If so, those can be worked around and low end torque can still be increased somewhat, extending the power curve producing a much larger area under the curve. This makes for an appearance of more power without making big maximum hp gains and it would be pretty easy to light up the tires. Chasing maximum peak power is a fools errand. Making the car faster while maintaining the same drivability is what you want.
 

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Gas powered cars with faster 0-60 times generally have better overall acceleration.
No kidding......really? The problem is as said above can it be repeated by the average driver under everyday conditions, or is it a one time thing done under monitored track conditions? That can make a huge difference. Drivability is a real issue....
You seem very against the idea of the 2.5T and any modifications of it. Can I ask why?
Where are you getting that from? What I am against is making claims with no real proof. Its been done before and it will happen again. If you are going to claim you tuned a car and got a 50hp increase, you need to do more than post a link that contains nothing but wishful thinking. Post dyno plots, with the baseline that you started from and at least one end result that shows the gains. Nothing has been offered to prove the claims yet . Whats been posted so far is within the realm of a car with a factory tune..... show the numbers........
 

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What .... 238 HP / 344 torque on 91 octane with the Burger tune. Why only 210 HP / 302 on 91 without burger tune?
The base numbers are off from what Mazda reports .... Mazda specs is 227 HP/310 torque on 87 octane and 250/320 on 93 octane .
 

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Assuming the listed hp are at the crank, and the dyno results show hp at the wheel.
 

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Assuming the listed hp are at the crank, and the dyno results show hp at the wheel.
Yes, most manufacturers list power numbers at the crank show the numbers look better. Dyno numbers are what you actually get to the ground.
Are those numbers with a just tune, or with boost added, or both?
Seems like power should be more evenly distributed across the powerband though. A big torque spike right at the bottom and nowhere but down from there isn't real promising....I can see why its so easy to spin the tires off the line while 0-60 times have not improved much at all. That sort of increase should put the car close to or under 5 seconds.
 

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Assuming the listed hp are at the crank, and the dyno results show hp at the wheel.
My bad ... should have know ...most all advertised HP from manufacture are crank
 

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Yes, most manufacturers list power numbers at the crank show the numbers look better. Dyno numbers are what you actually get to the ground.
Are those numbers with a just tune, or with boost added, or both?
Seems like power should be more evenly distributed across the powerband though. A big torque spike right at the bottom and nowhere but down from there isn't real promising....I can see why its so easy to spin the tires off the line while 0-60 times have not improved much at all. That sort of increase should put the car close to or under 5 seconds.
So why all the massive torque under 3.5 K ? The skyactiv head and exhaust headers ?
Is what is maximizing torque and HP under 4K also restricting the engine above 4k?
 

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So why all the massive torque under 3.5 K ? The skyactiv head and exhaust headers ?
Is what is maximizing torque and HP under 4K also restricting the engine above 4k?
Without knowing exactly what was done.....??
Thats how Mazda engineered the car. Lots of low rpm power to keep the engine from revving high, 5k is about as far you'd want to go. This is part of the Mazda driving philosophy of making everything feel relaxed and effortless, putting less stress on the driver. Unfortunately this might not translate to big useful tuning gains. An extra 50 ft/lbs of torque means nothing if you can't apply it towards forward motion. More power needs to be added at the mid and upper parts of the power band, maybe from 3.5k to 4.5k. Power needs to be dialed back in the lower end to make for a good launch without a lot of wheel spin. This is what I mean when I say chasing maximum numbers is a fools errand. Sure, you can claim you are getting 20 or 30 more hp and 40 or so more ft/lbs, but to what end? To smoke the tires? 0-60 times are still within the realm of the OEM tune. With a set of sticky tires an OEM car would be even faster.....
 

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Looks like a significant boost in the high end, seems that’s the biggest gain on the graph? I don’t think this is at all a final product.
 

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Looks like a significant boost in the high end, seems that’s the biggest gain on the graph? I don’t think this is at all a final product.
Final product? I seriously doubt that...I hope not anyway.....
The discussion was about the torque curve, not the hp gains. This motor has a really big initial torque spike down low because thats were the most torque is needed in daily driving situations, and the torque curve drops continuously from that early peak. Its not designed for drag racing, its made for sedate effortless cruising in the lower part of the rpm range. This is why Mazda has said from day one that this car is not a replacement for the MazdaSpeed3.
Increasing the torque without moving the curve could result in serious drivability issues if the increases were sufficient. Spinning the tires at every start if you aren't paying attention for instance, and in the rain or snow it will be miserable to drive. Also, how much driveline shock do you think this car can handle? Thats a bunch of torque being applied in a hurry...would be better if the numbers were dialed back a bit, peaked later and stayed higher at least to 4k rpm or so before dropping significantly. More power under the curve is much better than peaking too high and too early then steadily declining from there. This is not a high rpm motor, you need to keep the torque curve pretty flat if you want decent performance from it.
 

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Looks like a significant boost in the high end, seems that’s the biggest gain on the graph? I don’t think this is at all a final product.
Yeah, it does look like it adds to the area's the engine is currently strong in. Given the right tires, the car should pull even better.
 

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Final product? I seriously doubt that...I hope not anyway.....
The discussion was about the torque curve, not the hp gains. This motor has a really big initial torque spike down low because thats were the most torque is needed in daily driving situations, and the torque curve drops continuously from that early peak. Its not designed for drag racing, its made for sedate effortless cruising in the lower part of the rpm range. This is why Mazda has said from day one that this car is not a replacement for the MazdaSpeed3.
Increasing the torque without moving the curve could result in serious drivability issues if the increases were sufficient. Spinning the tires at every start if you aren't paying attention for instance, and in the rain or snow it will be miserable to drive. Also, how much driveline shock do you think this car can handle? Thats a bunch of torque being applied in a hurry...would be better if the numbers were dialed back a bit, peaked later and stayed higher at least to 4k rpm or so before dropping significantly. More power under the curve is much better than peaking too high and too early then steadily declining from there. This is not a high rpm motor, you need to keep the torque curve pretty flat if you want decent performance from it.
As seen in several head to head drag races (1/4 mile) . Its amazing off the line.
Increasing torque off the line or too much torque off the line can wheel spin and that will engage traction control and there goes your momentum.
Rain or Snow will feel like cheap all seasons looking for traction even second. More torque in the mid to redline would be ideal .
Can the AWD , launch control , traction ... (with the extra low end torque) be re programed?
Off line ... more hp to the rear to take advantage of launch shift in weight to rear.
Once launch weight re balances , 50/50 delivery and then keep the awd on longer before going to front only.
 
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