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I’m attempting to do this as well with a non Bose system and I’ve done a lot of installs but I haven’t seen a system like this before where I can’t get behind the head unit to put a LOC without ripping have the car apart. So any help will be appreciated
Yea trying to get behind the head unit seems like an exercise in futility. I'd image you could get it apart and try to piece it together again, but I would assume it would never fit together properly again lol.

It's not like my old Honda where things were nice and easy
 

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I assume you should not have any major issues with that. Have you completed your installation procedure? I wonder if you do it yourself or you asked somebody to do it for you. I am from the US, live Beach Webcam. And I am really keen on the result you got. Please let us know how it all worked. And please also share the places from where you buy spare parts for your mazda.
 

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So i just did this install, not too bad, first i decided to tap into the rear door speakers to a LOC2SL, found out that the rear speakers dont handle any bass... so i had to tap into the built in Sub, located under the diver kickpanel, there is two wires going to it, one Blue and One Red. i found out that you could only tap into the Red one, the blue one didnt provide any signal for RCA, for the 12v power i ran a 0 gauge from the battery to the amp, but for the remote 12v i found that under the passenger seat there is a remote 12v there that turns on and off with the car. it was a yellow wire.

it works good. also i have a 2019 Mazda 3 sport premium package.

if you want i can provide pictures.
 

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So i just did this install, not too bad, first i decided to tap into the rear door speakers to a LOC2SL, found out that the rear speakers dont handle any bass... so i had to tap into the built in Sub, located under the diver kickpanel, there is two wires going to it, one Blue and One Red. i found out that you could only tap into the Red one, the blue one didnt provide any signal for RCA, for the 12v power i ran a 0 gauge from the battery to the amp, but for the remote 12v i found that under the passenger seat there is a remote 12v there that turns on and off with the car. it was a yellow wire.

it works good. also i have a 2019 Mazda 3 sport premium package.

if you want i can provide pictures.
I'm a newbie to self installs. I have an 10" Infinity BassLink just sitting in storage. It's a compact powered sub about 7 years old. Pictures of what you did would be awesome. I'm willing to do the install myself... Just want to make sure I can. Thanks.
 

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I'm a newbie to self installs. I have an 10" Infinity BassLink just sitting in storage. It's a compact powered sub about 7 years old. Pictures of what you did would be awesome. I'm willing to do the install myself... Just want to make sure I can. Thanks.
i will take pics tomorrow, i am running two 10inch subs with a kenwood amp power them. im unaware of the sub you have, are you running a amp?
 

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ok what does that need to power it? im assuming like a regular amp, 12V from battery, remote 12v to trigger it to turn on, and RCA connections ?
I've reached the end of my understanding in this area. Thankfully I'm not afraid to learn. Here's the description I found off of crutchfields:

Class D 200-watt amplifier
wired volume control with 16-foot cable
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
speaker and line-level inputs
phase switch
bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
20-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
19' speaker-level input wires with plug-in harness included
 

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I've reached the end of my understanding in this area. Thankfully I'm not afraid to learn. Here's the description I found off of crutchfields:

Class D 200-watt amplifier
wired volume control with 16-foot cable
frequency response 20-120 Hz
low-pass crossover variable from 50-120 Hz at 12 dB per octave
speaker and line-level inputs
phase switch
bass boost adjusts from -6 dB to +3 dB at 40 Hz
20-amp fuse
auto turn-on with speaker-level inputs
remote turn-on lead (12V) required for use with RCA inputs
19' speaker-level input wires with plug-in harness included
so most likely you will need to run the same wires i did. power wire straight from battery, remote 12v (grabbed mine from under passenger seat(see pic). and also the RCA cables, i tapped into the excisting sub (Pic included)

now i still have to tidy mine up with plastic conduit to make it look cleaner.



(This is the pic for the remote 12V under the Passenger Seat, to pull the clip off you pull the white tab out towards you and then there is a push button thing you push and hold in and pull out the connector)
280571





(This is where i tapped into the sub that came in the car, there is two wires there one blue and one red, tap into the red one. there isnt much room to work there because of the location.)
280572
 

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I thought I noticed a difference between the Bassbox signal and the full range signal when testing an aftermarket sub. I didn't notice it so much on the powered sub, but I think Bose only sends a partial low-end signal for the Mazda subwoofers. If you're adding a separate amp too, I'd suggest tapping the front doors using a green X2 harness.
 

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I thought I noticed a difference between the Bassbox signal and the full range signal when testing an aftermarket sub. I didn't notice it so much on the powered sub, but I think Bose only sends a partial low-end signal for the Mazda subwoofers. If you're adding a separate amp too, I'd suggest tapping the front doors using a green X2 harness.
Can you post a link to this harness? When I tapped into the rear door speakers I got nothing with my LOC, I’m tapped into the excising sub in the kick panel right now but get engine noise feedback, was thinking of putting a ground loop isolator in to see if that would help
 

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Can you post a link to this harness? When I tapped into the rear door speakers I got nothing with my LOC, I’m tapped into the excising sub in the kick panel right now but get engine noise feedback, was thinking of putting a ground loop isolator in to see if that would help

Yea I think that's a mono signal, which probably makes it more susceptible to noise. But I think Bose uses some signal inversion trickery to eliminate that kind of intrusion. It's very clever but a PITA to work with.
 

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Can you post a link to this harness? When I tapped into the rear door speakers I got nothing with my LOC, I’m tapped into the excising sub in the kick panel right now but get engine noise feedback, was thinking of putting a ground loop isolator in to see if that would help
Did you tap a single wire or 2? Also, one or both sides/cowls? If you only tapped one side, I think tapping the other additionally might solve your noise issue (inversion). But if you're going to embark on a trim removal project, I'd stick with the passenger seat and the black X1 from that link. The 2 front doors provide a solid, full range signal coming straight out of that connector at the Bose amp, and you don't have to cut any wires. You can grab the sub signal from that same X1 to compare with the full range signal really easily too.
 

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Did you tap a single wire or 2? Also, one or both sides/cowls? If you only tapped one side, I think tapping the other additionally might solve your noise issue (inversion). But if you're going to embark on a trim removal project, I'd stick with the passenger seat and the black X1 from that link. The 2 front doors provide a solid, full range signal coming straight out of that connector at the Bose amp, and you don't have to cut any wires. You can grab the sub signal from that same X1 to compare with the full range signal really easily too.
so orginally i only tap into the one side, i am now tapped into both side and running them to my LOC2SL, basically using my LOC as a filter and coverting it to the RCA signals that way. Seems to work perfect now, sadly i have to wait for my new 10 inch sub box to arrive as one of the subs i have is blown... so once that arrives it will be good to go!. i also tapped into the other sub kicker on the foot panel on the passenger side. only thing i cant figure out is which line is positive and which is negative. i could alway just use the 9v battery test to determine which is positive and negative.
 

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so orginally i only tap into the one side, i am now tapped into both side and running them to my LOC2SL, basically using my LOC as a filter and coverting it to the RCA signals that way. Seems to work perfect now, sadly i have to wait for my new 10 inch sub box to arrive as one of the subs i have is blown... so once that arrives it will be good to go!. i also tapped into the other sub kicker on the foot panel on the passenger side. only thing i cant figure out is which line is positive and which is negative. i could alway just use the 9v battery test to determine which is positive and negative.
Try combining the 2 into 1 signal. It sounds crazy but will work since they're mono. Still need a ground wire as a negative. Like this:

280621
 

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got it installed and it works great! We tapped into the woofer in the drivers side footwell for the line level converter. The hardest part was getting
got it installed and it works great! We tapped into the woofer in the drivers side footwell for the line level converter. The hardest part was getting the power wire to the trunk, we had to remove the batterie to get at the main wiring grommet.
View attachment 274005
View attachment 274006
do mean the door speakers
 

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The hardest part was getting the power wire to the trunk, we had to remove the batterie to get at the main wiring grommet.
That's probably the smart thing to do. I was able to do it with the battery in, but it took a while, and my hands got cut up pretty good trying to get to the nipple on the on the wiring harness.
 

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so most likely you will need to run the same wires i did. power wire straight from battery, remote 12v (grabbed mine from under passenger seat(see pic). and also the RCA cables, i tapped into the excisting sub (Pic included)

now i still have to tidy mine up with plastic conduit to make it look cleaner.



(This is the pic for the remote 12V under the Passenger Seat, to pull the clip off you pull the white tab out towards you and then there is a push button thing you push and hold in and pull out the connector)
View attachment 280571




(This is where i tapped into the sub that came in the car, there is two wires there one blue and one red, tap into the red one. there isnt much room to work there because of the location.)
View attachment 280572
So this red wire if I hook it to an line output converter it will work to send a signal to the amp?
 
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