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Discussion Starter #21
Well, after another 3 days without my car, the dealership called and deemed the noise normal yet again. I test drove a 2017 mazda 3 with the same 2.5L engine and transmission and the noise wasn't present. Service advisor said there's still nothing they can do. Contacted a lemon law lawyer, I think it's time?
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT called Coffee.
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They're pretty incompetent when it comes to repairs at my local dealer. I'm going to be jacking my car up and double checking torque on the LCA's this weekend. They left it so loose it was clunking over even small bumps. I was afraid it would pop out of the ball joint. Then he had the nerve this time to say my oil is in severe need of changing because of the mileage, it was due at 12100 for a change and it's 12300 miles on it. I asked how he knew that and he couldn't answer lol. And then I explained to the service manager my oil was changed by me at 8500 miles exactly and isn't due until at least 13500 miles LOL. The sticker on the window means didly. I wish I didn't live in the middle of nowhere with no other dealer choice though. The closest ones are an hour away and the highest rated one in Sacramento didn't do anything for me, actually cost me money by leaving my fill bolt loose and let the transmission fluid drain out over a month. Had to have it towed in and they refused to put my fluid back in and charged me 160$ for theirs. My girlfriend wants to trade it in. I told her we'd be losing thousands on a trade in currently.
I think we found the culprit..

Trans related most likely. Why were they messing with the trans fluid at your mileage? Way too early and they probably f'd something up.
CK
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I think we found the culprit..

Trans related most likely. Why were they messing with the trans fluid at your mileage? Way too early and they probably f'd something up.
CK
I've got no doubt as the howl and whine both got significantly louder over the month or so it was leaking and stayed that way after the change. I just want to punch something. I've been to 3 different dealers, all say it's normal even though every video I've heard of test drives online, friends in 3rd Gen 3 on Facebook videos, and my own personal experience in a 2017 Touring yesterday afternoon as well as owning a 2017 sport myself say otherwise. Would you recommend contacting an independent mechanic for diagnosis and using that to push warranty work or would that mean nothing to Mazda?
 

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2018 Mazda 3 GT called Coffee.
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I would contact Mazda corporations directly and say you've been to a dealership and believe they seriously damaged your car. Running a transmission with low fluid will kill your engine.

Any one will be able to understand that.. if they don't.. mention bad faith and lemon law.. car is not drivable based on your statements and make sure you make that very clear to them.. "Not drivable" over and over... going to have to seek legal advice if not remedied ASAP... etc..
CK
 

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The C66M-R (Skyactiv-MT... 6 speed manual transaxle) in my Mazda6 (exactly the same transaxle as in the Mazda3 - but for the final drive ratio - a 'wee bit shorter-geared in my 6) does NOT whine in any way.
 

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Again, if the dealer says its normal, that implies they know what is making the noise. If they can't tell you whats actually making the noise, they are just blowing smoke. Get documentation that says its normal and a thorough explanation of what the noise is and why its normal. If the dealer can't actually explain the noise or where its coming from, demand documentation of why they can't.
The dealer knows there is a problem and they probably know what it is. Chances are the Sacramento dealer flagged your VIN in the system as having some sort of issue and the other dealers don't want to deal with somebody elses problem. It happens..

The closest ones are an hour away and the highest rated one in Sacramento didn't do anything for me, actually cost me money by leaving my fill bolt loose and let the transmission fluid drain out over a month. Had to have it towed in and they refused to put my fluid back in and charged me 160$ for theirs.
What exactly did you put in the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Again, if the dealer says its normal, that implies they know what is making the noise. If they can't tell you whats actually making the noise, they are just blowing smoke. Get documentation that says its normal and a thorough explanation of what the noise is and why its normal. If the dealer can't actually explain the noise or where its coming from, demand documentation of why they can't.
The dealer knows there is a problem and they probably know what it is. Chances are the Sacramento dealer flagged your VIN in the system as having some sort of issue and the other dealers don't want to deal with somebody elses problem. It happens..



What exactly did you put in the transmission?
Redline 75W80.
 

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I know that Redline MTL 75W-80 is GENERALLY well-liked - but I can produce a few accounts where folks REALLY do not like the stuff, and have found clumps of "mud" in their transmissions/transaxles which they claim were the (substantial) amount of additives being centrifuged-out... leaving thin, watery, "net" fluid devoid of any capability of generating a protective "min film thickess". ????
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I know that Redline MTL 75W-80 is GENERALLY well-liked - but I can produce a few accounts where folks REALLY do not like the stuff, and have found clumps of "mud" in their transmissions/transaxles which they claim were the (substantial) amount of additives being centrifuged-out... leaving thin, watery, "net" fluid devoid of any capability of generating a protective "min film thickess". ????
Interesting. It did come out super thin but looked that way going in as well. It doesn't have any clumps to it. I test drove a 2017 that had no whining though and the dealer still refused to do anything. Mazda Corporate was contacted after that and still nothing. Says the dealer has to say it's an issue. I don't understand how a nasty howl (grinds now) while decelerating and constant whine at 65 mph that resonates all across the cabin is normal but okay. I contacted a lemon law lawyer and informed Mazda I'll be proceeding down that route if they refuse to honor the warranty past this point. I'd love to have a replacement vehicle/transmission. I love the car otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Update: Going in Monday for what I think is the finding. I diagnosed and found my right front wheel bearing is bad, fails the play test in any direction, noise seems to lower pitch when turning left, noise starts at 10-15 mph and increases with speed, and they make a cyclic chirp when going bad. After a year of chasing it, I believe I've finally found the issue. Thank you guys. :D
 

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Good to hear you figured it out! The key, it seems, was the change in volume when turning one way versus the other versus going straight. That and the check on play.

Bravo!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Good to hear you figured it out! The key, it seems, was the change in volume when turning one way versus the other versus going straight. That and the check on play.

Bravo!
Yes sir! The change in pitch, although slight, was the indication for me! Jacked it up and it definitely has play @ 9 & 3, has slight play but more of a clunk @ 12 & 6. I'm 100% convinced that's the source of the issue after watching ChrisFix's video on it. Never noticed the video has the slight whistle/whine mine does when he is testing it. The play is pretty noticeable like in his video as well. :D

 

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Good work on that one. Feels good to solve a problem like that doesn't it?

Any play in a bearing means it's done. Not sure if you did this or not, but I have always found it helpful to check for bearing play with the wheel still on. That way you get a bit more torque on it so I find it easier to decide if it's bad or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Good work on that one. Feels good to solve a problem like that doesn't it?

Any play in a bearing means it's done. Not sure if you did this or not, but I have always found it helpful to check for bearing play with the wheel still on. That way you get a bit more torque on it so I find it easier to decide if it's bad or not.
Yes, with the wheel on you can grab in any position and get play. The 9 & 3 position has quite a lot of play, more than in his video. The 12 & 6 has slight play but you can hear something clunking/moving when you do it. It's very rewarding and has put new interest into the car for me. The only problem now is if Mazda is gonna honor their warranty or if the "tech" can hear the problem lol.
 

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My experience with Mazda "pros" has not been pleasant... lots of mistakes and misinformation from both dealerships I've worked with.. many problems with their work..

Waisted a couple grand having them help me install my lowering springs, CS RSB, GRP end links, and the CS FSTB. They couldn't figure it out and kept charging me to work on it, even though they were not successful installing any of it.

They have left my ABS line disconnected.. the brake line unclipped.. they have misbalanced my tires twice now (put most worn tires in front)... failed to diagnose blown struts (I even mentioned they seemed blown, but the tech said they weren't leaking.. so they must be fine.. sealed Koni FSDs..).. what a mess.. never again.

I only go to independent shops now that have really good reputations. They can deal with my dealership if there is any warranty work needed.
CK
 
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Discussion Starter #37
My experience with Mazda "pros" has not been pleasant... lots of mistakes and misinformation from both dealerships I've worked with.. many problems with their work..

Waisted a couple grand having them help me install my lowering springs, CS RSB, GRP end links, and the CS FSTB. They couldn't figure it out and kept charging me to work on it, even though they were not successful installing any of it.

They have left my ABS line disconnected.. the brake line unclipped.. they have misbalanced my tires twice now (put most worn tires in front)... failed to diagnose blown struts (I even mentioned they seemed blown, but the tech said they weren't leaking.. so they must be fine.. sealed Koni FSDs..).. what a mess.. never again.

I only go to independent shops now that have really good reputations. They can deal with my dealership if there is any warranty work needed.
CK
I will never set foot in a dealer for anything other than warranty work. I change my own fluids now, and am concerned about axle nut torque because a dealer left my fill bolt loose under inspection on my transmission. The deceleration howl from the differential is much more pronounced after it leaking for over a month without my knowledge. Went back under my car to reinstall the OEM RMM because "it needed to be unmodified" for them to chase this noise. They also didn't properly torque my lower control arm after 2 visits for the same TSB and wanted to do only half of it at first to skimp out on the work. I've already explained that if they refuse to do this I will be pursuing California Lemon Laws. I probably should have already. I've been to the dealer at least 5 times in my town, and 4 times in two other towns for this issue and the suspension issue. My patience has definitely been tested and I'm over it. :p
 

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i've had similar bad experiences. people just working too fast and not paying attention to detail. it's about making money, not about maintaining your car. yes there are good mechanics out there and no i don't have it out against them in general. just calling it as i see it.

i've had the local dealer not only tell me how wonderful they are, but also couldn't figure out how to bleed the air out of a set of brake calipers. they also wanted to tell me that it was insanely dangerous to be putting a small amount of anti-seize on both the wheel studs and the inner ring of steel rims but couldn't explain why. for those that don't know, glopping it on the studs could fill the lug nuts and create hydraulic pressure when you try to tighten them. result is the lugs won't be tight but will appear to be. reality is there is LOADS of room inside those lugs - they're hollow. in other words, go easy. as for the center ring of the steel wheels, that's just nonsense. it's not a blind hole so pressure simply cannot happen.

in your case with the wheel bearing, this should no longer be in question. get it on the hoist and show them there is play in the wheel/bearing. there should be no denying that. i'd also be asking why this was not discovered initially. not only is this a huge waste of your time, a bad wheel bearing can be very dangerous. granted, it usually takes a long time for complete failure, but if it does fail catastrophically you could very well wind up dead. think of it going boom while at highway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
i've had similar bad experiences. people just working too fast and not paying attention to detail. it's about making money, not about maintaining your car. yes there are good mechanics out there and no i don't have it out against them in general. just calling it as i see it.

i've had the local dealer not only tell me how wonderful they are, but also couldn't figure out how to bleed the air out of a set of brake calipers. they also wanted to tell me that it was insanely dangerous to be putting a small amount of anti-seize on both the wheel studs and the inner ring of steel rims but couldn't explain why. for those that don't know, glopping it on the studs could fill the lug nuts and create hydraulic pressure when you try to tighten them. result is the lugs won't be tight but will appear to be. reality is there is LOADS of room inside those lugs - they're hollow. in other words, go easy. as for the center ring of the steel wheels, that's just nonsense. it's not a blind hole so pressure simply cannot happen.

in your case with the wheel bearing, this should no longer be in question. get it on the hoist and show them there is play in the wheel/bearing. there should be no denying that. i'd also be asking why this was not discovered initially. not only is this a huge waste of your time, a bad wheel bearing can be very dangerous. granted, it usually takes a long time for complete failure, but if it does fail catastrophically you could very well wind up dead. think of it going boom while at highway speeds.
TL; DR

Chico Dealership sucks in all aspects. Maita Mazda gave me confirmation finally there is an issue and escalated it.

So, the initial dealer I took it to in Chico is a joke. Took it in for my appointment this morning, after diagnosing the issue myself and was greeted with hostility and disrespect by the Advisor and the Service Manager. They wanted me to sign a paper stating I'd pay the 150$ diagnostic fee out of pocket if they didn't find an issue within an hour. He said "What if a tech doesn't hear the noise?" To which I said you need a new tech. I explained it meets all symptoms of a bad wheel bearing and a new one is when I'm going about 10-15mph if I hit a bump the wheel jerks to the right side. He still insisted to sign the paperwork, and I said it was extremely obvious I came to the wrong dealer and left with some very choice words to him and department. In retrospect it wasn't professional of me to do, but neither is them denying I've got an obvious problem for over a year.

In a lighter note, I took the car after contacting Maita Mazda to them. I drove an extra hour and a half because their CS so far is loads better than both other dealers I've been to. They set me up with a tech who lined up a side-by-side comparison of their 2017 I drove last week, and my car. We confirmed on the ride that my car is making a resonant noise at 65 mph that isn't normal. He didn't hear it at all in the other car and the fact that it increased pitch with speed got his attention. I told him about the other dealership leaving my fill bolt loose and the transmission leaking for over a month and he saw that as a red flag that the transmission needs further investigation too. He told the advisor the same thing that he told me and that the fill bolt was left loose which I guess a lot of things were left out of the notes by both other dealers including that. They're contacting their regional rep. and should get back to me in a few days. My girlfriend and I enjoyed our ride home in a 2019 CX-5 because we could actually have a normal conversation and enjoy the ride at highway speeds with no whine resonating throughout the car.

At the end of the day, if the tech says there's an issue and if Mazda USA refuses to do anything, that's enough for California Law to lemon it. I'm done after a year finally. I slept like a baby when I got home, haha.
 

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Wow.... sorry to hear you've had such a battle. I don't think anyone here will blame you for the way you reacted to the service manager. I don't think I would have done differently.

Even given the issues, my dealer is reputed to be one of the better ones. That is not a compliment!

I will say that they didn't argue with me on the brake caliper thing. I bled them out myself, but sent an email to their manager. I see this kind of mistake as dangerous and shoddy work. I figure if I can't trust them to do a simple task like bleeding brakes, how can I trust them with anything?

In other words I buy parts there. I will say that their sales department was excellent. No BS from them what so ever.
 
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