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INFO FOR ADDING ADDITIONAL AUDIO AMPLIFIERS AND SPEAKERS TO YOUR MAZDA 3 2018 GT SPORT PREMIUM HATCHBACK

Hi Guys! Well here I am driving my deliciously brand new car, I totally love it, but sadly I have no RCA pre-amp audio outputs provided by the OEM to help me make even more noise along with the Bose system... well, this simply will not do!

I said to myself there had to be an easy solution out there... hmmmm.... yeah, right. Three weeks of endless internet and schematic research promptly commences... sleepless nights... freezing temperatures... cut fingers... frustration... you get the picture! So I am sharing my recently acquired knowledge to save all you audiophiles with the same issue a lot of pain. You're welcome.

THE DISCLAIMER:

*** YOU MAY RISK VOIDING YOUR CAR WARRANTY BY MAKING ANY ALTERATIONS TO YOUR CAR WIRING. DO SO COMPLETELY AT YOUR OWN RISK! ***
The rest of your project, and how you intend to accomplish it, is entirely up to you! If you don’t know what you are doing, get help from a knowledgeable installer. Please don’t knowingly wreck a perfectly good new car system just because you are too cheap to pay for qualified help! Mind you, I'm not speaking from personal experience or anything like that... :)

THE QUICK START GUIDE:
This is not a step-by-step guide. I don’t have the time to detail absolutely everything. It is expected the reader has a very good working knowledge of car audio systems and the various components. The only important facts you actually will require from my blog here are in these two sections:

- THE REQUIRED SIGNALS, and
- THE INTERFACE

THE CAR:
2018 MAZDA3 5-DOOR Bose Premium system complete with 9 high performance speakers, AudioPilot, Centerpoint and SurroundStage technologies.

THE STORY:
Being an absolutely brand new 2018 car, there is currently ZERO info to be found anywhere to accomplish my interface problem described below. Older wiring diagrams from previous models and images did not apply as changes are made almost yearly. So I made many phone calls, sent many emails, and employed some serious diagnostic tests in-car to find a solution to my self-perpetuated dilemma. I promised to share with the world if I finally found a solution for adding auxiliary amp systems to my brand new car, without affecting the stock audio system performance. Well… I finally did it!

THE TASK:
I wanted to add a very expensive high-end custom subwoofer/satellite system I devised to this car, but specifically have it fed the signals from the car's Bose system as “pre-Bose Processor”, and all this while retaining as much independent control of the two systems as possible. Unfortunately (and I only found this out AFTER I bought this car), Bose allows for absolutely no after-market audio component/amplifier additions to their proprietary system. Okie-Dokey, we’ll just have to see about that!

THE REQUIRED SIGNALS:
Under the front passenger kick panel about 4 inches off the floor is a 22 pin connector bolted in mid-air to the side post frame. This connector/cable carries signals from the head unit (located just above the connector) to the rest of the car's systems. The you will be looking at the back (wire) side of the one I am talking about when you remove the kick panel to look at it. This is the side I am referencing from here on in. It has a tiny square in each corner with the numbers 1, 11, 12, and 22 imprinted inside them. This indicates the pin numbering order for each row. Read it!

The specific wires you’ll need to tap into are listed below. Don’t cut off any of these wires as this will kill your signals to the unseen Bose processor/amps located elsewhere on the vehicle! You are ADDING wires here by splicing in, not by replacing them! I only listed the wires you’ll need to tap into – so LEAVE ALL THE OTHER WIRES ALONE!! Who cares what they do… just don’t touch them! In case a wire is a different color than I listed, then please make sure you verify the signal and pin placement. Do your own diagnostics. Things can change!

THE 22-PIN CONNECTOR:

Pin Color Signal Carried

3 TAN AMPLIFIER TURN ON

5 RED RIGHT REAR POSITIVE Bose processor amp feed
16 WHITE RIGHT REAR NEGATIVE Bose processor amp feed

6 GREEN LEFT REAR POSITIVE Bose processor amp feed
17 BLACK LEFT REAR NEGATIVE Bose processor amp feed

9 WHITE w/Silver RIGHT FRONT POSITIVE Bose processor amp feed
20 GREEN RIGHT FRONT NEGATIVE Bose processor amp feed

10 BLACK w/White LEFT FRONT POSITIVE Bose processor amp feed
21 RED LEFT FRONT NEGATIVE Bose processor amp feed

THE INTERFACE:
The Audiomobile LDQ4 is the perfect unit of choice for simultaneously bringing these signals across to your add-on system from the above wires. The gain range of the device is exemplary and you could not ask for a better product. Highly recommended. Go buy one. Follow the directions. Connect the tapped wires to the appropriate wiring inputs on the LDQ4, run your pair of RCA signals and the needed turn-on signal over to your additional amps/speakers, adjust your gains carefully and you are now officially ready to Rock! Thank you Audiomobile!

THE TRADE-OFF:
Any components added to the Bose system this way ultimately will need a time-correction method employed to re-sync the audio signals by just a few milliseconds (appx 4-5msec in my case). This is because the DSP employed by the Bose passenger under-seat processor/amp system tailors the audio signals for the car’s environment by design, and in doing so there is a significant “lag” created by the processor. Meanwhile, remember you have tapped into the pre-amp signals at a “pre-processing” stage, so your add-on systems are getting the non-delayed signals. This combined effect, if left untreated, is definitely noticeable when similar output levels between the two systems are used. It can sound like there is a tiny and very fast "echo" if the right conditions are present.

THE FINAL RESULT:
I now own a “clear-as-a-bell” full concert experience in my brand new vehicle! I will not get specific with what I added to my car, but know that any additional power of whatever high quality after-market amps/subs/speakers/eq’s/etc. you will add to the Bose system drastically improves on an already great listening experience! I will bet you won’t go back to listening to only the Bose system ever again - trust me on this! Yes, the Bose system provides really great sound all on it's own (of course – I paid dearly for their product!). Most would never think of ever adding anything else to this car and the Bose system was actually the primary reason I bought the Premium Package from Mazda. However, I'm an avid car audiophile in addition to being a part-time concert audio engineer, so I tend to seek out very strong and clean audio levels virtually everywhere there is a speaker (… the concerts, in the house, in the car, the shop, the studio, etc).

This worked out perfectly for me – and I hope this works for you too! Good luck!

LR
 

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Good info. Thanks.

I used an Audio Control LC6I after the amp with great results. No loss of time-correction. And i was able to get a full range signal for A aftermarket sub. The factory system will lower the bass levels as you turn up the volume. The audio control LC6I will combine signals and restore the original bass levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow, Deletedmike... Great Solution! I wish I knew your info three weeks ago when I started doing all this! However, I knew nothing about this Audio Control LC6I... so it looks like I have taken a much harder approach by devising my own solution to this! Not that I am dissatisfied with my own results, but it did take an extraordinary amount of diagnostic effort to obtain similar results. Plus I have that slight delay to deal with... oh well! I'll write it off to experience.

With that in mind, let's open this up to everyone here... Hey Peoples! What have YOU done to extract an audio source from your 2018 Mazda 3 w/the Bose 9 system??? Anyone stubborn enough to try do this, like we have??? Have you got something even better??? Let's hear it!!!

Audio... it's an necessity, not a hobby!
 

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remember bose has an impendance of 2 ohms
Remember to check and verify your findings before you assume internet info is correct.

Gen 3 bose:
Front dash speakers, all 3, approx 3.5 - 4 ohms
Front door speakers, 1 ohm
rear pillar speakers, 3.5 - 4 ohm (same as outboard front dash)
rear door speakers - I don't know, never looked into it.

All of the above is well documented on the forums.

Older bose systems may very well be 2 ohm but this thread is about gen 3.
 

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Unfortunatelly friend you are not right.

I had a base 6 speaker system - I decided to upgrade the front dash speakers - so I bought the tweeters coming from a 2016 mazda 3 with bose system - the front dash speakers after adding started playing very loud and the door speakers were hard to hear (only with a volume very high) - such behaviour is when you add 2 ohm speakers to a 4ohm system - as if you do so the 2ohm speakers can play at the same level of loudness with half of the power

maybe the difference is that you are reffering to US Mazda 3, I am reffering to European version - maybe that is the diffference
 

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Unfortunatelly friend you are not right.

I had a base 6 speaker system - I decided to upgrade the front dash speakers - so I bought the tweeters coming from a 2016 mazda 3 with bose system - the front dash speakers after adding started playing very loud and the door speakers were hard to hear (only with a volume very high) - such behaviour is when you add 2 ohm speakers to a 4ohm system - as if you do so the 2ohm speakers can play at the same level of loudness with half of the power

maybe the difference is that you are referring to US Mazda 3, I am reffering to European version - maybe that is the diffference
Unfortunately friend I am correct...

Again I ask that if you're going to provide advice and insist it is correct please make sure you are certain of the facts. Did you measure the impedance of both drivers yourself? Many of us here have, and anyone modding the system without knowing for certain what they're doing should.

What you did was remove a "tweeter" (high range only) from the base system and replaced it with a limited range "twiddler", that being a broader range speaker that is outputting medium to high frequencies. This "twiddler" is not a tweeter, and that lack of a proper tweeter is one of the biggest downfalls of the OEM Bose system - in my humble opinion.

This is why replacing the OEM "twiddlers" with a proper coaxial speaker that includes an actual tweeter is a common modification to the Bose system.



The difference you're hearing yourself is likely the added range to the driver, as well as a possible increase in efficiency with all other things being equal. Efficiency is a specification of these speakers which I can't find online but is just as important for perceived output as an impedance - especially when comparing drivers at the same impedance. Bose is known for using highly efficient drivers to milk as much impact they can out of an otherwise (typically) lower wattage system.



Due to your misinformation I have taken the time to cut sections from the actual service manual indicating speaker impedance. Down the road this may help anyone looking to modify either system. If you're starting with the base system, I'd be jumping straight to a proper pair of components.

Front Center.JPG

Front Door.JPG

Front Side - Bose.JPG

Front Tweeter - Non Bose.JPG

Rear Door.JPG

Rear Speaker - Bose.JPG

Non-Bose System.JPG

Bose System 1.JPG

Bose System 2.JPG
 

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I also have a 2018 GT Sport since September :)

I modified an audio config file in the head unit with Notepad++ over SSH access. Now I got USB Audio out plug and play.
Then I changed default PCM output to 192khz/24bits instead of the default 44/16.
I plugged in a CM6631A USB to SPDIF adapter, so I output high resolution digital audio from my stock HU.
I send that signal trough a coax spdif cable to a MiniDSP 6x8 in the trunk.
From the MiniDSP I send 8 channels RCA to 3 different amps. One 4ch amp bridged for 8" midbasses, another 4ch amp for the 3.5" midranges and the tweeters, and a third amp for a 15" subwoofer.

I'm still tuning the DSP for the best time-alignment and EQ, but so far it sounds amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is quite significant and really excellent info you have provided here - thank you so much for taking the time to help us! This thread is going well here and it's important that the details be sorted out along the way... good stuff, Guys!

Once again, I wish I had this 2018 info before I cut into my car... I just might have taken a different approach!
 

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OK, this one is over-the-top COOL!

I also have a 2018 GT Sport since September :)

I modified an audio config file in the head unit with Notepad++ over SSH access. Now I got USB Audio out plug and play.
Then I changed default PCM output to 192khz/24bits instead of the default 44/16.
I plugged in a CM6631A USB to SPDIF adapter, so I output high resolution digital audio from my stock HU.
I send that signal trough a coax spdif cable to a MiniDSP 6x8 in the trunk.
From the MiniDSP I send 8 channels RCA to 3 different amps. One 4ch amp bridged for 8" midbasses, another 4ch amp for the 3.5" midranges and the tweeters, and a third amp for a 15" subwoofer.

I'm still tuning the DSP for the best time-alignment and EQ, but so far it sounds amazing.
DanB0yDro this is definitely a most serious approach to gaining that signal out, and you even improved the signal along the way? WOW! You have a killer hi-def solution to this issue. Yes it takes investment and risk, but then again why not? You've taken this to a whole new level here... Man I'd LOVE to hear the actual results. Thanks for the great share!

This is great! Excellent info and specs/methods coming out of the real serious enthusiasts here... so who else has a trick or two? Let's hear it, Guys!
 

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My 16 Mazda 3 came with the standard system, I've went ahead and used a FiX 82 to get a flat signal & undo OEM TA that feeds to my TwK88, where I can adjust TA & EQ. Front Stage is a set of Illusion Audio C6, Rear doors are tuned down to not distract from my front stage (Polk MM651) and subwoofer is a single Illusion Audio C10, that are being powered by a JL Audio XD600/1 & Arc Audio 600.4. Everything is in factory locations except for the sub which is in a sealed box in the rear hatch, of course with doors and hatch sound deadened.
 

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Additional info direct from Bose

Bose kindly replied to my questions for info on their system in the 2018 Mazda3's.

The attached image show the pinouts for all amp connections. The input lines I tapped into for my signal source are shown outlined in the Red box.

In addition, here's what Bose and their Service Engineer said regarding my questions about the signal source present on the lines outlined in Red:

- Bose Corporation does not recommend adding any after market components to the factory installed system, as it voids your warranty with Mazda
- You may be able to tap into these Rear audio inputs to our amp for this add on component
- The input type from the head unit to our amp is Balanced differential with a typical input to our amp of 3.6Vrms

Please note that while this simple method actually worked, I am however experiencing a 50msec time delay between the two independent systems. I am presently experimenting with solutions but felt this was still good info to share, just in case someone wants to pursue my "low-budget solution" to adding amps. I wish I had the abilities of Danb0ydro who shared his killer solution with us above... Much Respect, Man!

Also, sending a shout out here to Bose for responding and providing answers - Thank You so much!

- LR

P.S. Does anyone know of a decent full-bandwidth stereo DSP that can offer up to approximately 50 milliseconds of stereo delay? I recently did a test, and that's approximately how much delay is being caused overall by the stock Bose system amp's processing of signals, so I need to delay my add-on system appropriately. Please share if you know of something out there.... I'd really appreciate it! Thanks Guys!
 

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I also have a 2018 GT Sport since September :)

I modified an audio config file in the head unit with Notepad++ over SSH access. Now I got USB Audio out plug and play.
Then I changed default PCM output to 192khz/24bits instead of the default 44/16.
I plugged in a CM6631A USB to SPDIF adapter, so I output high resolution digital audio from my stock HU.
I send that signal trough a coax spdif cable to a MiniDSP 6x8 in the trunk.
From the MiniDSP I send 8 channels RCA to 3 different amps. One 4ch amp bridged for 8" midbasses, another 4ch amp for the 3.5" midranges and the tweeters, and a third amp for a 15" subwoofer.

I'm still tuning the DSP for the best time-alignment and EQ, but so far it sounds amazing.

Can you share what and how you did this? I have a previous gen CX5 with Bose and am stuck at the HU seemingly having a 40hz HPF on the raw signal it sends to the Bose amp. Your getting a digital output from the HU should solve this hurdle.
 

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Can you share what and how you did this? I have a previous gen CX5 with Bose and am stuck at the HU seemingly having a 40hz HPF on the raw signal it sends to the Bose amp. Your getting a digital output from the HU should solve this hurdle.
Have you checked all channels? I've heard the rears (on the 3 anyway,) have a highpass, but I don't think the fronts do.
 

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Is anyone here in Socal? I live in the San Fernando Valley/ Los Angeles area I really just want to add a sub and amp to my new 2018 hatch I just got. I have zero experience installing audio equipment. I'd like to take my car to a shop thats familiar with adding subs and amps to the mazda 3 bose system. My front door rattles by itself without a sub added and I want to have the dealership take care of that with a warranty fix before I go and upgrade my audio system.
 
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