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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm close to 40K miles on my 2016 3s, and was starting to get some pulsing feeling in the brake pedal. Since i'm out of non-powertrain warranty i decided to go ahead and replace the rotors and pads up front. Pads were about due anyway and hoping the rotors were causing the pulsing. Sprung an extra $50 or so for the drilled/slotted rotors. They feel excellent at least during the bedding procedure - much better than where i was at before doing the brakes, but can't compare to when the car was new - i'd expect these will just fade less, and frankly I don't do any driving with the car where brake fade is an issue save maybe an odd trip to the mountains to ski or camp - it's flat here. Anyway...some pics - apologies for the rotation of some pics - they were right side up before uploading and it's late!

Remove entire caliper to get rotor off - 2 17mm bolts to remove the caliper mount bracket - needed breaker bar to break them initially. Old rotors and the stock caliper...
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New rotor - if nothing else they look sexy!
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Here's what the caliper looks like...
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Caliper bracket back on - reinstalled 2x17mm bracket bolts, install new side clips - the caliper bolts themselves were 13mm if recall correctly.
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I'm all ears if i used too much brake lube....I started doing my own car repairs later in life, so only done a few brake jobs myself so far....
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Everything put back together...
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with wheel (Enkeis, same size and offset as stock 18's) -
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Bedding instructions straight from the manufacturer...
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So i followed the instructions on a late night drive, and everything went according to plan - started smelling brakes after the aggressive stops, then did the moderate ones and was able to let 'em cool and get back home with downshifting. Will see tomorrow how everything turns out post break in.

Here's the kit i purchased from Rock Auto
kit.png
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ride to work today was a success. The pulsing/vibration on braking appears to be history.
 

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Nice write up! I need to do my pads this spring and I might do the rotors for safe measure. I know you haven't had them on long but have you noticed much brake dust? Was the PN you used K6971?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up! I need to do my pads this spring and I might do the rotors for safe measure. I know you haven't had them on long but have you noticed much brake dust? Was the PN you used K6971?
Correct that is the same part number, everything fit perfectly. Not sure on brake dust yet honestly, especially since my rims are essentially "brake dust" color, i don't pay attention on this car all that much just clean the rims once in awhile...but certainly haven't noticed any issue. I drove the car to work this morning..maybe 100 miles total far on this...and it felt good. Very happy at the decent price the kit was.

And thanks!
 

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Perfect timing, I'm getting ready to do the same install. Did you have to turn the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench? I saw one youtube video where the mechanic pressed it in with a C Clamp. I've done it that way before on other vehicles I've owned. Never turned the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Perfect timing, I'm getting ready to do the same install. Did you have to turn the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench? I saw one youtube video where the mechanic pressed it in with a C Clamp. I've done it that way before on other vehicles I've owned. Never turned the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench.
I used the c-clamp method with the old brake pad over the caliper cylinder - super easy once you're in there, just make sure you have a big enough c clamp - probably not an issue for most but the one i had until recently was like a dollar store deal with maybe 3" of clearance - wasn't going to work!
 

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I installed the same brake kit about 2 years ago along with braided stainless steel lines. Pad life is excellent with very little dust.
 

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Perfect timing, I'm getting ready to do the same install. Did you have to turn the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench? I saw one youtube video where the mechanic pressed it in with a C Clamp. I've done it that way before on other vehicles I've owned. Never turned the caliper piston in with a spanner wrench.
I used the c-clamp method with the old brake pad over the caliper cylinder - super easy once you're in there, just make sure you have a big enough c clamp - probably not an issue for most but the one i had until recently was like a dollar store deal with maybe 3" of clearance - wasn't going to work!
Just FYI
You can compress the piston using a C-clamp on the front calipers but you will break the rears if you do that. They need to be retracted using a brake tool.

 

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Do the rear brakes need a special tool, Or can I use a spanner to turn the piston in? It looks like I turn the piston clockwise?
 

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Do the rear brakes need a special tool, Or can I use a spanner to turn the piston in? It looks like I turn the piston clockwise?
A brake piston tool, any car parts place should have one.
Yes, clockwise. That is what the text says in the service manual page above.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Update - turns out the pulsing from the brakes was still present after some more driving. Since i hadn't done the rears, i suspected those, but since I needed an inspection and a wiper recall at dealer, decided to take it there first and have them put in their 2 cents. Passed inspection, got my wiper recall done, and they said the pulsing was the rear brakes which were almost failing inspection (@40k miles - rears, pretty odd but seems common on this car). They did not charge me to diagnose the brakes despite me not using their services for the repair - very decent of Hall Mazda on Holland Road. Picked up my car with no charge at all actually!

So i got the rear piston tool and PowerStop Z23 Evolution rear kit for $112 - vs $400 for dealer brake job w/ rotors
piston tool - [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQUFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
powerstop K6963 set - [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741W5RLL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

The tool works, you just have to be patient, push and turn. I think the trick is lots of push and slow turn - anyway took awhile for me. Only other tool required to use this tool is 3/8 ratchet and extension (it's basically like a special 3/8 drive socket that turns your caliper piston)

Now that the rears are installed, feels like new. Two thumbs up!
 
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