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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my car went in for a service and the dealership updated my software version which removed my AIO and locked me out from putting it back on. I got all the cables and software to do the Serial connection, but my problem is that I am battling to get to the ports on the back.

All the instruction videos are for different models. Removing the cover in front revealed 2 screws that looked like it is holding the system in place, but removing the screws does not make the unit budge at all. The back cover I am guessing will slide out with the unit, unless that also has to come off somehow?

I didn't want to force anything in case I break it, so I am turning to all you experts out there that might know how it is all assembled to give me some clue as to how I can get to the back of the unit.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update*

I managed to get the back cover off, Still not sure how to get the unit out though. It seems the screen is screwed in by 4 screws, So I will most likely try to unscrew those as well.
Not sure how I will get to the back right side screw as it is quite deep in. It's frustrating that I can now see the cables I want to get at, but it is still out of reach...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For those of you still stuck with the above CX3 configuration, you do not have to unscrew the 4 screws in the back, there are 2 white clips that you have to "unclip" on the outer side of the front 2 screws.

here is a link to a video that shows you exactly how to remove the console: www youtube com/watch?v=O1JQHQTsjrE (sorry I'm not allowed to post links yet, just add the 2 . in the spaces)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
why do you need to do that?
Not sure what you are referring to?



Finally got everything up and running.

Problems that I encountered...

1. The TTL cable I have has 4 cables (red/green/white/black) I had the red and black swapped around sending USB power onto my console body. This caused my PUTTY to crash my windows. Once corrected it stopped crashing my windows.
- Red = Power
- White = TX
- Green = RX
- Black = Ground
Cut the red off, you don't need it. White goes in top, Green in bottom and black attached to the body of the console (See images). To make sure that your wires are in far enough, let them stick out in front and bend them upwards and downwards away from each other (front.jpg) then there is no doubt that it will be in correct.

2. I am running windows 10 64bit, the USB to Serial drivers that comes standard with windows are not compatible with your TTL cable (especially if it is a PL-2303), you will need to install a earlier version of this driver (wp[dot]brodzinski[dot]net/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/IO-Cable_PL-2303_Drivers-Generic_Windows_PL2303_Prolific[dot]zip) <- Replace 3 [dot] with actual .'s and copy into address bar.

3. BSOD - I kept getting the blue screen of death while trying to execute commands in PUTTY, there were 2 reasons for this. At first I thought it was to do with the driver being incompatible as wdf01000.sys kept crashing my windows which can be caused by new hardware/software. The first reason was the cables connected incorrectly as stated in point 1. The second reason is that PUTTY runs through so much feed back, it runs out of memory and crashes PUTTY and/or Windows. Turning off Bluetooth and wifi in your mazda's settings helps a lot. Also rather than PUTTY, I would suggest that you use Termite. It makes it easier to send commands and it pauses for a second after every command so you will see if your login worked.
 

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