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2016 Mazda 3 i Touring
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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got to get the car on the dyno. This is with all my bolt ons and no tune, I wanted a baseline of where I’m at before starting the tuning process with OVT. Car is a 2.0

141whp
142wtq

Mods:
aFe Stage 2 intake
2.5 throttle body
aFe throttle body spacer
CorkSport 80mm racepipe and midpipe
Borla axleback
93 octane pump gas

I’m pretty happy with the results and have some ideas for how I can gain some more power.

Dynod at Panda Motorworks in St Louis. They mostly do Focus ST stuff, I believe MazdaSpeed stuff too, but they were more than happy and willing to help out with the build.
 

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What were the baseline numbers? Dyno numbers taken after you do stuff don't mean much unless you have something to compare them too. In this case, stock numbers should be about 130 -135 whp for a 2.0, maybe 140 with just an SRI and pod filter.....so near $2k in bolt-ons for less than 10 hp. Axle back, a decent intake and a good tune will put you closer to 170 whp....outside of that there isn't much you can do with this motor that has any real significant effect, and changing the exhaust pipe diameter by swapping the resonator and/or mid pipe can actually cost you some power. Lots of discussion on this stuff if you read through this section of the forum.....
 

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2016 Mazda 3 i Touring
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Discussion Starter #3
What were the baseline numbers? Dyno numbers taken after you do stuff don't mean much unless you have something to compare them too. In this case, stock numbers should be about 130 -135 whp for a 2.0, maybe 140 with just an SRI and pod filter.....so near $2k in bolt-ons for less than 10 hp. Axle back, a decent intake and a good tune will put you closer to 170 whp....outside of that there isn't much you can do with this motor that has any real significant effect, and changing the exhaust pipe diameter by swapping the resonator and/or mid pipe can actually cost you some power. Lots of discussion on this stuff if you read through this section of the forum.....
Like I said, it’s a baseline for myself before I get a tune, not really for a stock car. Stock runs about 125-129. It’s not about the money to me, it’s a hobby and I like this platform and want to see it grow. Still on the fence if I should go back to my 60mm corksport racepipe and midpipe or get the 80mm axleback portion to finish off the 3 inch exhaust all the way back. The throttle body upgraded is one of the best bang for you buck upgrades you can do to these cars, improves throttle response a lot. I also have the best intake available for these cars currently. I have a cam at home and I want to do head work as well. Eventually going to go turbo
 

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The throttle body upgraded is one of the best bang for you buck upgrades you can do to these cars, improves throttle response a lot. I also have the best intake available for these cars currently.
The best bang for the buck is a proper tune.....bar none. A good tune will include real throttle pedal remapping and greatly improves response....
I don't see how that intake is superior to any other. More expensive ≠ better....Its just a fancy SRI with a pod filter and an air box.....There is no way that the claim of a 71% flow increase is valid. Peak attainable flow and actual engine demand are two very different things. The engine can only draw in as much air as is dictated by cylinder volume, you can't increase air flow 71% just by using a different air filter. In fact, increasing the intake flow by 71% would require a complete ECU remap for the engine to run....The OEM intake is already quite efficient by design, and flows just as well as any aftermarket part. I hardly think that the $345 intake linked to above provides any additional airflow beyond what any other decent tube and pod SRI can provide.
 

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I'd lose the CS exhaust components and stick to the Axle-back.

The intake may be causing airflow restrictions.. put the stock in... run some data logs and then put the aftermarket back in and run more data logs.. after driving 25 miles or so that is.

The stock intake is a cold air intake and does a very good job. I have a 2.5L and use an AEM cold air intake that is designed for the Mazda 6 and is CARB legal for said car. It uses part of the stock intake too to draw outside air in.

It produces similar gains to the max numbers as my K&N 69 Typhoon intake did, but kept the internal air temp closer to the stock intake. About 5 degrees higher on a bunch of data logs I did. The K&N was averaging 13 degrees higher than stock on my logs.

A real tune and testing some various bolt-ons will get you set. I'm OV Tuned for 91 octane (I live in CA) and it made the car a ton more fun. Rafael is also a great guy to work with.. we owe that guy a beer or two.
CK
 

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2016 Mazda 3 i Touring
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Discussion Starter #6
I'd lose the CS exhaust components and stick to the Axle-back.

The intake may be causing airflow restrictions.. put the stock in... run some data logs and then put the aftermarket back in and run more data logs.. after driving 25 miles or so that is.

The stock intake is a cold air intake and does a very good job. I have a 2.5L and use an AEM cold air intake that is designed for the Mazda 6 and is CARB legal for said car. It uses part of the stock intake too to draw outside air in.

It produces similar gains to the max numbers as my K&N 69 Typhoon intake did, but kept the internal air temp closer to the stock intake. About 5 degrees higher on a bunch of data logs I did. The K&N was averaging 13 degrees higher than stock on my logs.

A real tune and testing some various bolt-ons will get you set. I'm OV Tuned for 91 octane (I live in CA) and it made the car a ton more fun. Rafael is also a great guy to work with.. we owe that guy a beer or two.
CK
Definitely get where you’re coming from. From what I’ve seen and read, the intake I have is the best you can buy. It seals with the hood and retains the area where the stock air would come in at.

Now about the exhaust. I’m on the fence about it. I have the 60mm CorkSport racepipe and midpipe which I might put back on. Further research shows that being 80mm, it might be too big on a 2.0 and even the 2.5. If glad I have it, as it’ll be necessary for a turbo, but N/A, it might be too big and I might not be getting full performance from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What brand gas? any ethonal?
Not gonna lie man, I usually run Shell V power 93, but it is so hard to find a Shell off the interstate in the St. Louis area I noticed and I needed gas and wanted a full tank for the runs, so I ended up running Quick Trip (a very popular gas station in the St Louis area I noticed) 93 octane, didn’t pay attention to the ethanol content or lack of. When I go back, I’ll either fill up at the same one or try to find some V power.
 

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Finally got to get the car on the dyno. This is with all my bolt ons and no tune, I wanted a baseline of where I’m at before starting the tuning process with OVT. Car is a 2.0

141whp
142wtq

Mods:
aFe Stage 2 intake
2.5 throttle body
aFe throttle body spacer
CorkSport 80mm racepipe and midpipe
Borla axleback
93 octane pump gas

I’m pretty happy with the results and have some ideas for how I can gain some more power.

Dynod at Panda Motorworks in St Louis. They mostly do Focus ST stuff, I believe MazdaSpeed stuff too, but they were more than happy and willing to help out with the build.
Dang! A 3” pipe! The dyno graph looks pretty good too with your 3” pipe!
I always struggle if I should upgrade my pipe from 56mm to 62mm or not. But it seems I should make it to 62mm to squeeze more Hp out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dang! A 3” pipe! The dyno graph looks pretty good too with your 3” pipe!
I always struggle if I should upgrade my pipe from 56mm to 62mm or not. But it seems I should make it to 62mm to squeeze more Hp out of it.
I’ve measured the stock pipe vs the CorkSport 60mm midpipe/racepipe and the inside diameter is the same. I believe the benefit is that it’s more free flowing as it’s catless
 

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I’ve measured the stock pipe vs the CorkSport 60mm midpipe/racepipe and the inside diameter is the same. I believe the benefit is that it’s more free flowing as it’s catless
Surprisingly my CX-5 2.0L 162Hp (on paper) has only 55mm truout the whole pipe.

I just done install a new 4-1 catless header with 62mm big collector. So i thought, why not 62mm all the way.

But I always worried about the velocity. Since your 16’ Mazda 3 come with 60mm originally, I guess I should just give it a go, confidently.

Thanks mate, it took me a very long time to get this piece of very precious piece of information ation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Surprisingly my CX-5 2.0L 162Hp (on paper) has only 55mm truout the whole pipe.

I just done install a new 4-1 catless header with 62mm big collector. So i thought, why not 62mm all the way.

But I always worried about the velocity. Since your 16’ Mazda 3 come with 60mm originally, I guess I should just give it a go, confidently.

Thanks mate, it took me a very long time to get this piece of very precious piece of information ation.
If you want, private message me and I can send you pics of all the measurements of everything.
 
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