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Greetings 3 world thought I share my stereo build and install to shine some light on another way an after market stereo can be added to a mazda 3 sGT with Bose audio.

Disclaimer: If you are afraid or hesitant about cutting wires in you're vehicle do not attempt this stereo install take all components to your local stereo shop for professional assistance, any work done by those capable do so at your own risk! I will not be held accountable for any mistakes made by users reading this.

Lets start with the aftermarket hardware/components I'm no baller so I chose lower range audio equipment nothing to fancy IMO (not sure whats considered baller these days.)

LOC/ audio control LC7i: https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl...1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496120742&sr=8-1&keywords=Lc7i

Dash Speakers x3: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RASVIS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front door speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GHQX5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear door speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00803LE2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sub-woofer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CY13W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

amp install kit x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HNIJBY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DEI boom mat x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039Z3SRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stinger speed wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ODEZ1G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

install gear distribution block: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY2E0K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual 600 watt 4 ch. amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1POLJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Install gear ring terminals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V59M76A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

harmony audio 4to 8 gauge reducer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5SGWRU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front speaker adapter: PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made

Rear speaker adapter: PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made

Okay now that the hardware is out of the way next up we have things you will need to install:

Phillips head screw driver
soldering iron
solder
10mm socket and socket wrench
wire strippers
razor blade
wire cutters
small/stubby phillips screw driver for dash speakers
RTV silicone
electrical tape
heat shrink wrap from size 0 to 22
Speaker/wire connectors

PRO TIP: BE SURE TO SOLDER ALL CONNECTIONS, AND COVER WITH HEAT SHRINK OR ELECTRICAL TAPE (exposed metal on reducers as well.)

-Installing the speakers is pretty straight forward you remove the panels use the DEI boom mat, and the speaker adapters to install the speakers you can either use the provided connectors from the bose brackets or you can cut the wires like I did and install you own connectors do this for all 4 doors, and the all 3 dash speakers.

-Running power wire is very easy in this car, there is a elongated grommet in the engine bay black in color use a razor blade to cut a slit in it to pass your power wire through the grommet from inside the vehicle near the kick panel/brake pedal please be careful do not cut to deep there are many wires running through the grommet.
Once you do this you can use on of the purchased gold terminals file it down on the sides and make some slight modification to the battery positive plastic cover and mount it on the large fuse on the far left side ( when facing car from front.)still run a in-line 100 watt fuse even though there is one there. Run the power wire along the side trim panel all the way to the trunk it is very easy to do just be careful when removing the panels. Be sure to use some RTV/silicone on the hole/slit that was cut into the grommet to keep water/nature out. Once you've gotten your wire to the trunk use your distribution block to run power from the battery to both amps/sub-woofer.

-Now here's the hard part go down to you're Bose amp on the passenger side front seat remove the front bolt on the mounting bracket move the seat all the way forward and do it to the rear mounting bracket as well.
once this is done remove the three bolts holding the amp in place then unplug the three harness plugs from the amp.
You will begin by carefully taking a razor blade and cutting the OEM harness back in order to get some slack in the harness to work with, the OEM harness is very stiff.
Now don't be afraid you will solder the wires back on, begin cutting the proper wires corresponding to the diagram posted also cut the 2D grey 12v ACC Relay wire as well you will need this to power you amps/remote this will allow you amp(s) to turn on when the car turns on.
Now you will need to solder two new harnesses using your stinger 9 wire speed wire one is for signal to the amp, and the other is for signal to the LOC/LC7i use the colors as you see fit but make sure to write down, or make a diagram for you to follow because you will need to reference them again later on when connecting them to the AMP, and to the LOC/LC7i.

-Make sure to solder and heat shrink, or electric tape all your connections, run wires along the side panels just like you did on the driver side it will vary slightly as you will have to run it directly up the side panel at the bottom of the B-pillar then along the side panels to the trunk, or where you choose to mount you LOC/LC7i, and amp.

-Now connect all connection be sure to double and triple check this before and after soldering and then again when connecting to the amp, and LOC/LC7i next turn the jumpers on the LOC/LC7i to summed signal so when you hook up the RCA from the LC7i to the subwoofer it will draw signal from the front speakers as a summed channel run the other two from the 4ch. amp to the LOC/LC7i

Find a place to ground everything I used the stock spare tire hole and bolt get some washers (takes about 6) from the local hardware supply this will be needed make sure to take a grinder and knock down the paint for a smooth metal service for a good ground optional to spray some clear coat to keep from rusting. (washer size is 1/4 use flat washer doesn't matter if galvanized or not.)

Now you are done enjoy your new sound system make sure to spend time setting it up just how like with enough bass and juice pushing to all speakers and amp.

It bumps pretty dang good I can post sound clips if requested let me know.

Will need to upload a few more images tomorrow it's dark out and couldn't get images.
 

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It looks like you replace a total of 7 speakers. How were you able to condense the 7 signals into 4 for the LC6i? Then from a 4 channel amp how did you end up powering all 7? Did you wire in parallel? I'd really appreciate your help as I'd like to complete this but there are some grey areas. Thanks!
 
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