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2014 Mazda 3 2.0L
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My 2014 Mazda 3 (about 130000km), after sitting in my intermittently heated garage for a week without being started was dead. Weird, but I boosted it, and upon starting it, I noticed that all of the lights were flickering. I thought it was just because it was slowly building charge, so I put it in first and started rolling forward, and noticed the power steering was not working (power steering light came on once I started to try to steer). I realized this was a bigger problem, and tried to put it in reverse to get back into my garage, and the car died again. I was able to boost it and get it back in the garage, but it had the same problems and eventually shut itself off again.

I decided to look under the hood, the battery terminals were relatively clean (although I cleaned them anyway), and none of the exposed cables seemed to have connection issues (quick check).

If anyone has any idea where I can find a possible solution to this problem, it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Griffin
 

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2014 Mazda 3 2.0L
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When I rev to 2000, all the warning lights turn on and the gauges and infotainment restart repeatedly. It was able to idle this time, and the lights would only flicker while idling. Once I revved, all the lights went on and everything electrical seemed to restart. My roommate thinks it’s the alternator. Would that make sense? Id think the alternator would cause it to change while revving.
 

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If you have a multimeter, check the voltage across that battery terminals at around 2500 rpm. If it's around 14V your alternators OK.
 

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From what you describe, I'm leaning towards a dying battery. Unless there's something you haven't told us, so far all you've done is to check some terminals. Believe it or not, you're going to have to do a little troubleshooting to solve this.

Do not fall into the trap of guessing at the failure. This leads to replacing parts needlessly costing you money and time. You need to test to prove the failure before buying parts.

Checking voltage is all well and good and might show the problem. I'm not saying don't do it. However, a battery with low capacity might show voltage as fine but won't last out the driveway. If the voltage test is good, you should do a load test on the battery. Many parts stores will do this for free. A load tester is not an expensive test tool if you want to buy one. I use mine twice a year to give me advance warning of a battery wearing out. It means I will never be stuck trying to boost the car.

It is possible that the alternator is at fault too, but again we must prove that. Voltage is a good place to start, but much like the battery it is possible that the alternator will put out sufficient voltage but not be able to supply the load demand. The load tester can also determine this by putting a load on your charging system.

With what you describe, I would definitely start with just voltage testing to see if you can find the problem. You should also check your serpentine belt. A loose belt won't turn an alternator well.

If volt testing turns up good you may have to look at doing load testing. If that turns up fine, start looking elsewhere. We are more than willing to help with that outcome.

Either way, let us know how it goes.
 

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My 2015 did something very similar when I went to the dealership to look at it before I bought it. Someone had left the lights on, but apparently the setting to turn them off automatically was turned off, so the battery drained. We didn't know this until they went to bring the car around, and it wouldn't start. They jumped it, and went to bring it around, and they couldn't. Every time they tried to turn the wheel, it would jump right back to the original position, and the car would start to die. I went to see what it was doing, and then we went back inside to take a look at some other cars they had in their system to see if there were any others I would be interested in. They had jumped it again before we went back to the building, and left it running during that time. I didn't see any others that I wanted to look at, so asked if we could go back out there to see how it was doing. I had taken my BlueDriver with me, so I plugged it into the OBD-II port since it had a CEL showing. The code it found pointed to low voltage at the TCM. After clearing the code, it didn't return. I was able to take it for a test drive, and ultimately ended up buying the car. The battery has been fine since then, and that was over a year ago.
 

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Assuming you have the original battery. Likely it's finally sulfated enough that it's starting to short out. Personally, i'm a fan of the deep cycles. Go to batteriesplus.com and lookup your car. Personally I'm a fan of the X2, it comes with a 60 month replacement warranty. They also have a smoking deal if you can buy it online and pick it up in store.

Northstar makes the x2 battery, so if you hunt around for a northstar battery.
I bought mine here, with free shipping NorthStar NSB-AGM-35
 
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