Too easy but if your just learning I can help. maybe you should go to the track more often with your pieced together suspensionUm, no, wrong again.
Once again more incoherent ramblingToo easy but if your just learning I can help. maybe you should go to the track more often with your pieced together suspension
"This matters because steering is the driver’s main line of communication with the car; distortion in the guidance channel makes every other perception more difficult to comprehend."
Electric Power Steering: Pros and Cons
The electric power steering system (EPS) was introduced approximately a decade ago as a more effective alternative to hydraulic power steering. EPS uses an electric motor with sensors that detect the torque of the steering column, to which a computer applies assistive torque via the motor. This can benefit the driver by easing the pressure of driving, but is also beneficial for removing some weight from the vehicle with the elimination of the hydraulic pump, cooler, fluid and hoses. The downside to electric power steering systems—and those pursuing auto careers may attest to this—is that much of the freedom of driving is lost. There is a widespread complaint that vehicles with electric power steering have a “lack of feel” when driving, because much of the manual process has been diverted from driver to electric motor and sensors.
Engineers are well aware of its inherent shortcomings, some of which prompt our negative bias toward this type of power assist. These include far more friction and inertia than hydraulic, shortcomings that can make a car feel numb. No wonder hydraulic is better than electric assist
Wonder why a Lotus Elise or Dodge Viper ACR use old school steering AND NOT ELECTRICAL, maybe its because
"driving a car with electric steering is like having sex while wearing three condoms."
I waffled between the Tanabe and CS bar. I'm now even more convinced that I made the better choice in buying the Tanabe. I also like to add that the Tanabe bar is way cheaper (around $120-150 shipped vs $200 shipped for the CS). The Tanabe's price is even more attractive considering it is made in Japan. I never seen the CS bar in person, but looking the pics on their CS's website, the welds on the bracket looks kind of sloppy IMO. Also, with the Tanabe, you can adjust the length so that the bar can exert outward force between the strut towers, making it even more effect (at least in theory). The CS bar is non-adjustable.Installed the Tanabe FSTB yesterday. I like it a lot more than the CS FSTB.
Where did you bought your Tanabe?Installed the Tanabe FSTB yesterday. I like it a lot more than the CS FSTB.
The Tanabe bar came with locking flanged M10 x 1.25 nuts to replace the OEM ones.
This was a major issue with the CS bar, as you need to reuse the OEM nuts. The OEM nuts only have 3 threads on the top and none on the bottom half. This destroys the nuts and threading that pokes through the strut tower.
The Tanabe bar also attaches to all three strut tower threads, whereas CS only has 2 connecting.
I just ordered a replacement strut rubber mounts.. for the second time.. as one of the 4 threads the CS bar was connected to became unusable.. again..