[MAZDASPEED_PR]

Great info and I appreciate all the engineering and work you put into this.

My question is - why not use the aftermarket kits already available?

is there an advantage to your way?

View attachment 275731

There is not an interface available for that specific year and model with bose audio.

 

[MAZDASPEED_PR]

Hello there, I'm new here and late to this post.
There is something missing here...
By replacing the Bose amp, will you keep all the vehicle chimes and hand free function?
Thanks

 

[The Italian]

Hello there, I'm new here and late to this post.
There is something missing here...
By replacing the Bose amp, will you keep all the vehicle chimes and hand free function?
Thanks

Yes, you will.

 

[The Italian]

@MAZDASPEED_PR, I forgot to mention that you lose the two Mazda functions that I don't consider relevant but you might. They're called Centerpoint and Audio Pilot... Or something like that, sorry I don't know the exact terms... Basic electronic trickery imho. Lol

 

[MAZDASPEED_PR]

The center point is just the middle speaker, the Audio Pilot is noise cancelling thing, i dont care much about that.
As long I have the hands free and all factory chimes im good to go

Thanks

 

[The Italian]

The center point is just the middle speaker, the Audio Pilot is noise cancelling thing, i dont care much about that.
As long I have the hands free and all factory chimes im good to go

Thanks

Then you should be fine brother.

 

[The Italian]

Great info and I appreciate all the engineering and work you put into this.

My question is - why not use the aftermarket kits already available?

is there an advantage to your way?

View attachment 275731

Does this actually work with the Bose system? I ask because it says it doesn't online but maybe you've tried it and it does. Thanks!

 

[Starlight]

After searching for a few nights, I found a T-Harness that plugs between the TAU and the Bose Amp.
PAC APH-GM02 - Speaker Connection Harness - PAC
Ordered it from Crutchfield - PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro Speaker Connection Harness Connect a new amp to your vehicle's speaker wiring in select 2014-up GM vehicles with factory Bose amp at Crutchfield

I got the harness today and the plugs fit on the amp and the wires that plug into the amp.
Each plug has every wire present, but the labels don't match our wiring layout.

I didn't want to cut or tap the factory wires and I found a way, yay!

 

[Starlight]

After searching for a few nights, I found a T-Harness that plugs between the TAU and the Bose Amp.
PAC APH-GM02 - Speaker Connection Harness - PAC
Ordered it from Crutchfield - PAC APH-GM02 AmpPro Speaker Connection Harness Connect a new amp to your vehicle's speaker wiring in select 2014-up GM vehicles with factory Bose amp at Crutchfield

I got the harness today and the plugs fit on the amp and the wires that plug into the amp.
Each plug has every wire present, but the labels don't match our wiring layout.

I didn't want to cut or tap the factory wires and I found a way, yay!

Thanks for the info... Did everything work when you hooked up the amplifier? It seems easier than splicing all the wires up.

 

[zanix]

Thanks for the info... Did everything work when you hooked up the amplifier? It seems easier than splicing all the wires up.

Yep, it all works wonderfully (minus centerpoint and audio pilot or whatever it's called)
I got FM/AM, chimes, etc.. and I have clean, level audio running into a 5-channel amp.

When I have some time, I might be able to take a photo of the complete wire harness I made.

 

[Starlight]

Yep, it all works wonderfully (minus centerpoint and audio pilot or whatever it's called)
I got FM/AM, chimes, etc.. and I have clean, level audio running into a 5-channel amp.

When I have some time, I might be able to take a photo of the complete wire harness I made.

That’s great! I’d like to see some photos. I did get the harness. You were the first person to recommend it, so thanks! There’s not a lot of info regarding this option. I think some wires aren’t labeled right, but it’s a very minor issue. I do think you can just reconnect the center speaker for your chimes, etc.

 

[zanix]

That’s great! I’d like to see some photos. I did get the harness. You were the first person to recommend it, so thanks! There’s not a lot of info regarding this option. I think some wires aren’t labeled right, but it’s a very minor issue. I do think you can just reconnect the center speaker for your chimes, etc.

I need to remove the passenger seat to get the the wires, so I might not be able to do this until this weekend

 

[dr_lap1k]

Yep, it all works wonderfully...

Hello, do this connectors fit the OEM ports on the factory amplifier? I mean can I connect them the same way as in the photo attached. The previous owner of my car cut everything off and installed an aftermarket amp, but I would like to put it back as it was from the factory.

Spoiler: photo

 

[zanix]

Hello, do this connectors fit the OEM ports on the factory amplifier? I mean can I connect them the same way as in the photo attached. The previous owner of my car cut everything off and installed an aftermarket amp, but I would like to put it back as it was from the factory.

Spoiler: photo

View attachment 281151

Yes, those cables have both plugs so you could rebuild the factory connection.
However, note that most of the wire labels on this aftermarket harness do NOT match the wiring from the car, so use the wire diagrams in the first post as a guide when using this new harness.

 

[zanix]

That’s great! I’d like to see some photos. I did get the harness. You were the first person to recommend it, so thanks! There’s not a lot of info regarding this option. I think some wires aren’t labeled right, but it’s a very minor issue. I do think you can just reconnect the center speaker for your chimes, etc.

Sorry, I haven't had the time to pull the seat out and take photos.
I made the cable using the wiring diagrams from the first post and matched what what each wire was on the harness to the aftermarket plug. It wasn't very hard just had to take my time and triple check to make sure the wires were correct. I even ended up attaching labels at one point but they ended up falling off.
It's been 28 days since my post so my photos are probably not going to help at this point but I do still intend to take them.

 

[Starlight]

Sorry, I haven't had the time to pull the seat out and take photos.
I made the cable using the wiring diagrams from the first post and matched what what each wire was on the harness to the aftermarket plug. It wasn't very hard just had to take my time and triple check to make sure the wires were correct. I even ended up attaching labels at one point but they ended up falling off.
It's been 28 days since my post so my photos are probably not going to help at this point but I do still intend to take them.

What kind of Mazda do you have, and what speakers do you have amplified? I am running the front and back door speakers. I don’t know if it’s possible to actively run the tweeters separately. That’s what I tried to do at first, but I went with the front and back speakers instead. I think the front speakers and tweeters are connected in parallel, so they’re all working simultaneously. I also have a Dayton-408 dsp connected. It sounds pretty great! How do you have yours connected??

 

[zanix]

What kind of Mazda do you have, and what speakers do you have amplified? I am running the front and back door speakers. I don’t know if it’s possible to actively run the tweeters separately. That’s what I tried to do at first, but I went with the front and back speakers instead. I think the front speakers and tweeters are connected in parallel, so they’re all working simultaneously. I also have a Dayton-408 dsp connected. It sounds pretty great! How do you have yours connected??

I have the 2018 Mazda 3 GT.

There are speaker 8 channels in total:
Front left woofer, front left tweeter, center, front right tweeter, front right woofer, rear left woofer, rear right woofer, and both rear tweeters share a single channel.

All of the speakers are amplified except the center speaker which is disconnected.

I connected each woofer and tweeter pair to a channel on an aftermarket amp since the amp only has 4 channels for the speakers, front left/right and rear left/right.
The rear tweeters share a channel by default so I ran a new wire from the amp to the rear right tweeter so it can be on the same channel as the rear right woofer.

I have an AudioControl DM-608 DSP with a Rockford Fosgate Power T1000X5AD
I also replaced all of the speakers:
All 4 of the tweeters are Infinity REF3022CFX 3.5"
- I had to add resistors because they were WAY louder than the woofers.
The front woofers are Dayton Audio RS225P-4A 8"
The rear woofers are Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6"
And a Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12

 

[dd18]

The front woofers are Dayton Audio RS225P-4A 8"

how did you mount to the doors?

 

[zanix]

how did you mount to the doors?

Took out the Bose woofers, traced the outline on a 12"x12"x3/4" sheet of HDPE, and cut with a jigsaw.
They didn't turn out perfect since I don't have circular stencils or a router but they work.

 

[Gammel]

So i have a question,
Is it still smart to tap into the fl/+- and the fr/+- with a high low converter or will I lose any performance by doing so ? (Becaus I have already a high/low converter and I don’t want to cut the cables (I want to use branch connectoes))