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2013 OEM Xenon HID DRL

10K views 59 replies 8 participants last post by  Juggernaut 
#1 ·
Hey, everyone. I've been searching the forums for weeks looking for an answer to these questions but I haven't found it anywhere. If you can point me to a thread that answers my questions, I'd be happy to take this one down.

Anyways, I have a 2013 MZ3 SA (US version) with the OEM xenon HIDs, but I want DRLs in the headlight housing. Specifically, the owner's manual calls them the "parking lights". It's the same location as the Canadian model DRLs. (See attached picture)
The bulbs in that spot are w5w (T10 wedge bulbs), which I've replaced with LEDs.

However, here are my questions:
1) What can I do to either a) make these brighter, or b) wire a different kind of bulb in the same spot that will put out more light?
2) What is the easiest way to wire the chosen DRL method from above that will turn on/off with the engine? I don't care if they turn off with headlights and whatnot.
Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to make it clear.
Thanks!
 

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#2 ·

http://www.vleds.com/v3-wa-5k.html
These are really nice. I have same headlights as you but I have opened mine up and painted them. Mine have autolevel..not sure if your's do or not. I'm far from knowing much about these lights or the bulbs, but have plans to purchase this switchback kit when a. I've already bought more important mods and b. I fully understand what they do, which I need and what stuff to get with it. Oh and understand all this more in general really.

I see several options. First, obviously go with some switchbacks. Second, you can look into retrofitting or fabricating a DRL option in your headlight housing..strips or tubes...or even halos while your are inside the headlight housing. Another option may be to remove the "running lights" on the inside corner behind the clear plastic piece that covers the amber light bulbs (or LEDs in your case) and custom fit some DRL there. You might be able to find that OEM DRL (Can model) bulb housing in the Canadian Mazda Parts Catalog or online. I'm just not sure if you can get it without replacing the entire headlight. I looked into this myself soon after buying my car but gave up on that months ago.

Best of luck and please keep us updated as I'm curious what you find out!
 
#3 ·
I was actually just checking out your build thread, haha. Thanks for the info. I was hoping that you'd have a picture of the inside of the headlight with just the cover pulled off, but I understand being in the zone and not taking pictures.
I've considered opening the housings and painting them/installing halos but I wanted something a little more unique to the MZ3. It seems every car has halos these days, especially in SoCal. I may still paint them though.
About fabricating my own DRL solution inside the housing: wouldn't that risk getting moisture inside the housing? Or would it be possible to use the existing wiring to power it?
Obviously I don't expect anyone to have the exact answers to these, but input and advice is greatly appreciated.
 
#4 ·
page 11 I have more pics than the OP.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/m3r-rides-meets-pics/36705-my-build-thread-skyactivetwentythirteen-11.html

That clear plastic strip over the running lights is just a clear cover. Behind it is a regular chrome housing with the amber bulb. I really like the added look that plastic strip gives, but I wish I had left the chrome housing alone because it is hidden behind that strip anyway and the light needs the chrome for proper output. Instead of ordering a replacement or trying to remove the paint in that specific bulb housing, I may get that switchback LED kit to see if it's bright enough without fixing the housing..but I'm not getting my hopes up. If you do decide to do some painting, I'd recommend NOT painting that piece on each light. If I open the lights up again EVER, I will look into installing some LED strips or tubes beforehand if I'm still wanting DRL's.
 
#5 ·
I looked at that but your pictures didn't have quite the view I was looking for. But thanks for the description, that's what I needed.
Unfortunately, the only way to install those switchbacks as DRLs would be to open the headlights and secure them with your own creative methods. The openings for the bulbs in the housings won't fit a 16mm bulb and definitely won't fit the 21mm diameter on the spec sheet of those Tritons. At least that's by my experiments.
You should be able to wire up any bulb type with a diameter of about 14mm or less to that spot though.
 
#10 ·
If you want the DRL Canadian style, you will need Canadian assemblies. They use a bulb that looks more like a headlight bulb than the T10 parking light. All you need to do is buy a connector that matches the bulb and run it to a power source in the fuse box for however you want it lit
 
#13 ·
@DVG @tastic
off the top of my head they both have them but I've seen others with them as well. I'm not seeing installation photos just some before/after in their builds or other threads.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-skyactiv-appearance-interior/13923-v3-triton-switchbacks-vs-jlc-switchbacks-wow.html
and tastic has it listed as "20. V3 TRITON Switchback LED 5000K (600 lm White/430 lm Amber) - Front Turns / DRL" under lighting in the OP of his build.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/m3r-rides-meets-pics/15572-tastics-build.html
He may have opened his headlights up though but they can answer your questions I bet ;)
 
#18 ·
The Triton V3s are PnP. You put screws in 6 possible positions that matches the connectors for your plug, you set the length the bulb extends, and use the included control boxes to connect to your stock connector. It even has build in load resistors (although I chose to leave them disabled since I already had resistors set up to do led turns on all 4 corners. The switchback versions have an additional tap so you can have them reduce intensity when the low beams are turned on. Easy peasy and brighter than anything else on the market, even in direct sunlight.
 
#15 ·
Tritons are easy to install into anything. They are designed to be plug and play. Maybe there are some instances where the heatsink is to bulky and it wont fit nice but those should be treated as the exception and not the rule.
 
#16 ·
Oh, sorry I only read the comment where I was mentioned. You could make these fit in that slot just by cutting the plastic Im sure, but I would recommend you just get some tritons and use them as switchbacks.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Thanks dude, that should answer his question. I can't wait to get mine.

@DVG also if you don't mind I have a question or two of my own as well.
I would want mine to run in white while driving for DRL but to switch to amber for turn signal. Since this will be installed in my (inside) amber "running lights" will I need to switch my current turn signal into running lights and running light to signal?..or can they both be turn signals? I'm a bit confused and is why I have put off ordering these for several months.
Having explained what I'm wanting will I need any of those adapters/parts under the options on Vled's site for this V3 kit? It looks like I need a parking light (running light) adapter but I'm a moron with this lighting stuff. Or just need the 7443/7440 kit to achieve what I want without an adapter? Control box is just to give manual control to the driver of the system so I wouldn't need one correct?
Any help appreciated as customer support is likely to tell me I need every adapter and fill my head with bs lol.
 
#20 ·
It will make a lot more sense when you have them in hand. It really is very easy. Its clever what they did to make it pnp in many different bases.

As for your other question, it sounds like you want to put the tritons into the running light? Not the turn signal position, right?

Yes, you can have 2 turn signals, and no you dont have to do anything to any other bulb
 
#21 ·
#24 ·
Thank for all the replies, everyone. I appreciate the help.
The issue is that the V3 Tritons have a bulb diameter of 21 mm (see diagram from vleds.com).

The housings of the 2013 OEM Bi-Xenon HIDs will only fit a bulb diameter of about 14 mm or less for the spot I want to put my DRLs.
Does anyone know of a solution for this?
If I can't find anything then I'll settle for switchbacks.
 
#25 ·
You REALLY want it in that slot?

Cut a slot for it. Just cut with an exacto knife and make the shape of a 7443 or whatever so that you can secure the bulb into the housing properly. Assuming the plastic is rigid enough.

IE cut a hole that looks like the hole in this picture:

http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/headlight/695690_191_full.jpg
 
#26 ·
I just think that would be the best spot for DRLs since they are really only for vanity anyways. I'll think about cutting the lights. Thanks for all your input.
Since the LEDs I have in there are decent, I guess the next step from here would be to change the existing light wiring in that spot from parking lights to DRLs. Can anyone help me with that?
 
#27 ·
I tapped into the fuse block next to the battery. I cant remember which fuse though. It gets power as soon as you put keys to the on position (without having to start the engine) and the lights stay on for some amount of time after I turn off and lock the car (sometimes a few seconds, sometimes a few minutes, ha)
 
#29 ·
#31 ·
I actually made my own harness :p Just hook up that engine block fuse to positive on the bulbs and ground to negative. Use appropriate fusing, wire sizes blah blah blah do it at your own risk etc etc...
 
#33 · (Edited)
Well Im in school for electrical engineering so I do stuff like this all the time, I figured out which fuse to use from someone else though.
 
#34 ·
This may sound a little silly, but could I use speaker wire for this? It seems like it would be more convenient to have the positive and negative wires connected for the sake of cable management.
Also, since I'm going to be making a whole new circuit anyways, couldn't I pick what kind of bulb I want to use? As long as it fits in the housing?
 
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