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Hey guys,

I did my 2nd oil change last weekend and took a sample to sent to Blackstone for a used oil analysis. I got the results today and thought you guys might be interested in seeing them. The wear numbers are still high since the engine is still wearing in, but the viscosity of my oil was pretty low...



I posted over here and some people think 0W30 might be better with our engines. Not sure if I should follow Mazda's severe schedule and change it after 4 months or wait 5000 miles before changing it, like Blackstone suggests. I drive mostly city/frequent short trips so I will hit 4 months before I hit 5000 miles.

Derek
 

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There is nothing indicating excessive wear. 5k would be safe. You might try a 5w20 to see if that makes any difference since it would be a bit more shear stable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is nothing indicating excessive wear. 5k would be safe. You might try a 5w20 to see if that makes any difference since it would be a bit more shear stable.
From what I've read 5W20 wouldn't make a difference since you want a lower number in front of the W for cold starts. The people on the BITOG forums thought the viscosity Blackstone measured was low. They thought 0W30 or 5W30 would be better in a direct injection engine. Maybe they're just paranoid haha. Apparently the high fuel dilution caused the viscosity to be low. I'm probably going to change it in March and do another UOA then and see how things look.

Here's the thread if you're interested: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2807809&page=1
 

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The 0w weight does help a bit for cold starts but that comes at a sacrifice. The 0w oils shear more quickly because they have a higher volatility. A 5w20 would be more likely to stay in grade.

But if fuel dilution is a severe problem and you want to attack that, a w30 would help because it would dliute down to a w20 most likely.

PS: I posted in your thread already on bitog.
 

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Penzoil Platinum or Ultra holds fuel in suspension without loosing as much viscosity as Mobil 1 does. Repeated reports from Blackstone with direct injection engines have proved it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Penzoil Platinum or Ultra holds fuel in suspension without loosing as much viscosity as Mobil 1 does. Repeated reports from Blackstone with direct injection engines have proved it out.
That's good news. I put PP in the other week when I changed it. We'll see how it does.

The 0w weight does help a bit for cold starts but that comes at a sacrifice. The 0w oils shear more quickly because they have a higher volatility. A 5w20 would be more likely to stay in grade.

But if fuel dilution is a severe problem and you want to attack that, a w30 would help because it would dliute down to a w20 most likely.

PS: I posted in your thread already on bitog.
Ahh you did post in my other thread haha. Sorry I don't pay attention to usernames much haha.
 

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It sounds like your car is still breaking-in after 5000+ miles, which makes sense since our cars start off with synthetic-blend from the factory.
 

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Just got my oil analysis in for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just got my oil analysis in for comparison.
Interesting. Looks good. What kind of oil did you use for that sample?
 

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Interesting. Looks good. What kind of oil did you use for that sample?
Mobil 1 0W20 with about 5000 miles on it. 2nd oil change.
 

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they had this to say about mine:
This is an impressive first sample. We usually see a lot of high wear and silicon in oil samples from
new engines like this one--the wear is from new parts breaking in, while silicon is from sealers and
sand-casted parts. But your metals are almost all normal already, except for copper, and that metal will drop
over the next oil change or two. Silicon will come down too. The excess fuel is probably from something
operational, and we'll look for it to improve next time. The TBN was a strong 2.7. Try going 5,000 miles on
the next oil. Copper and silicon will still improve.
3100miles on the OEM oil (first oil change)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
they had this to say about mine:
This is an impressive first sample. We usually see a lot of high wear and silicon in oil samples from
new engines like this one--the wear is from new parts breaking in, while silicon is from sealers and
sand-casted parts. But your metals are almost all normal already, except for copper, and that metal will drop
over the next oil change or two. Silicon will come down too. The excess fuel is probably from something
operational, and we'll look for it to improve next time. The TBN was a strong 2.7. Try going 5,000 miles on
the next oil. Copper and silicon will still improve.
3100miles on the OEM oil (first oil change)
Can you upload a pic of yours? What was your fuel dilution percentage?
 

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looks like my feeling was right, i have tried use 87 in my mazda 3 i touring skyactiv, and every time i regret my decision, because the gas is not powerful enough to drive, and my cause danger situation, because the car was not accelerating fast engouh to escape some danger for example drive behind a construction vehicle and they have small rock falling.
89 was little better, and also keep the engine cleaner make car running smoother
but after i discover the mazda stock air intake was locking 35% of its intake system.( if you open the air intake you can see they only let 65% air after air filter to free flow into engine. the other 35% was coverd by plastic) so i desiced to change to short ram intake by corksport. instantly after the change the housepower was up lot, but the mpg was down little bit, and also getting alot noise when startup and some part on acceletating the car. and the mix with 87, in the begining the car ran with higher horsepower and regular mpg, but the after the 89 gas runout with only 87 left, the car didn't get good enough horsepower.
so i thought maybe i should change the engine oil to high grade, i was think about 0w40, because the higher the horsepower create more heat, fast the the speed the more protection we need, the mazda only let in 65% air, and let us use 87 gas, so its only require to use 0w20, 0w40 and 92 gas and short ram intake would be able to unlock the nature of it power maybe to 200 horsepower. haha. anybody agree?
 

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Heavier oil will reduce your HP.
 

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looks like my feeling was right, i have tried use 87 in my mazda 3 i touring skyactiv, and every time i regret my decision, because the gas is not powerful enough to drive, and my cause danger situation, because the car was not accelerating fast engouh to escape some danger for example drive behind a construction vehicle and they have small rock falling.
89 was little better, and also keep the engine cleaner make car running smoother
but after i discover the mazda stock air intake was locking 35% of its intake system.( if you open the air intake you can see they only let 65% air after air filter to free flow into engine. the other 35% was coverd by plastic) so i desiced to change to short ram intake by corksport. instantly after the change the housepower was up lot, but the mpg was down little bit, and also getting alot noise when startup and some part on acceletating the car. and the mix with 87, in the begining the car ran with higher horsepower and regular mpg, but the after the 89 gas runout with only 87 left, the car didn't get good enough horsepower.
so i thought maybe i should change the engine oil to high grade, i was think about 0w40, because the higher the horsepower create more heat, fast the the speed the more protection we need, the mazda only let in 65% air, and let us use 87 gas, so its only require to use 0w20, 0w40 and 92 gas and short ram intake would be able to unlock the nature of it power maybe to 200 horsepower. haha. anybody agree?
ummm what?:stuart:
 

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If that was the case, then 20w50 oil, e85, and an unfiltered velocity stack right before the MAF would net, what, 300hp?
 

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If that was the case, then 20w50 oil, e85, and an unfiltered velocity stack right before the MAF would net, what, 300hp?
Just pull the maf out and put it in an airtight bag. Then the ecu thinks it has no air so it will pull in shit tons of air. more air = more power. Also, disconnect the intake from the tb. The intake is restrictive. Using e85 will make up for the increase in air because it burns more better. Then just remove the exhaust after the manifold and you have like 300 whp for free.
 

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Mobil 1 0W20 with about 5000 miles on it. 2nd oil change.
How do you like it ? Though Mobil 1 gets a bad rap, I have been using it on our Mazda5 in 0w20 last 16,000 miles. Been used since New, and its great.

Other cars u have been using castrol Euro or shell rotella
 
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