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Discussion Starter #1
Evening all,

I have a crazy squeak noise coming from under the battery tray. With the car in park and engine off, I can rock it back and forth and hear the annoying noise coming from right under the battery tray. As the engine rocks back and forth so goes the squeaking noise. Is there a tranny mount or some sort of engine mount under there? If its bad, how easy is it to replace?

I've spent the last hour searching here and I see lots of 5 speed motor and tranny mount problems as well as mount issues, but nothing particular to the automatic or serviceability. I will NOT take this to the dealer and prefer to do everything myself.

Thank you all very much.

Sid
 

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Demon Spawn
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Evening all,

I have a crazy squeak noise coming from under the battery tray. With the car in park and engine off, I can rock it back and forth and hear the annoying noise coming from right under the battery tray. As the engine rocks back and forth so goes the squeaking noise. Is there a tranny mount or some sort of engine mount under there? If its bad, how easy is it to replace?

I've spent the last hour searching here and I see lots of 5 speed motor and tranny mount problems as well as mount issues, but nothing particular to the automatic or serviceability. I will NOT take this to the dealer and prefer to do everything myself.

Thank you all very much.

Sid
yes the no4 engine mount is under the battery tray see this diagram:http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/supermazdatech/2011-11-16_234249_mount.jpg

no4 rarely fails on its own. I would also suspect your no3 and no1 mounts are shot as well, as these 2 usually go first no3 is the passenger side one under the coolant tank and usually fails first, then that strains no1 (under the car on drivers side, rear of the engine) then if left unfixed this can cause the other 2 to fail prematurely. my diagram does not show a no2 because no2 is a transmission mount and it is just basically a big square plate with rubber on it to keep the spot where the tranny is mounted to the frame from making noise, it is the absolute least likely to fail, mainly because it does not do much but dampen noise and stiffen the trans mounting. have you had any history of unexplained vibrations in the car? if so no3 probably failed around the time that started has the car had a rougher than normal ride lately? no3 and no1 cause this, you state its an auto has it had more "shift shock"(where you feel it shift, and moves your body some as it does) then normal recently as well? if so these are all indications of failing motor mounts in these cars

No3 fails regularly it is a common complaint on this car and was a common issue on non skyactiv models from 04-13 more common on 04-09 models but still happens on the 10-13s it is a fluid filled mount and once the rubber cracks enough, the fluid drains and the mount is useless. Honda had similar issues with the civic and accord. anyways no3 leaks, to easily check this mount get a flashlight (if there is not enough going into your engine bay already) and look at the top for rips, and cracks, look around and under it for what will appear like power steering fluid or oil leaking (its the hydraulic fluid used in the mount) the 10-13s have a squishy top so just having a squishy top is not a good test on the 10-13 cars (my 08 mount was hard on the top and if it went squishy the mount was failing) mazda changed the mount slightly in 09 for 10-13s and one change was the softer top with a different fluid sack (they hold up better then the older ones) better rubber was the other change.

I digress, If you find this mount in bad shape you most likely have a bad no1 mount this one is harder to check as its under the car and requires removing the splash shield, better to change it anyways. no4 the one you report having issues with is under your battery tray and requires removal of the battery tray and a few minor other things to inspect and replace. If your going to go through the hassle of changing the no4 mount I would suggest changing no1 and no3 as well while you have the engine supported and are doing a mount already, keep them all in good health and prevent any of them from wearing prematurely on you again.

Keep in mind the no4 and no1 are readily available aftermarket (fairly cheap) but the dealers near me had almost the same prices for oe so I went oe. the no4 and no1 mounts are the cheaper ones the no3 mount is not readily available aftermarket (it looks very close to the ones for the 04-09s but has slightly different stud holes in it and the aftermarket ones will not fit on the studs. dealer near me had the no3 for $92 but it was the entire rubber and bracket so not terrible.

My n03 mount was ready to go so I changed it(oe part 71k miles) and no1 last week and I can attest it makes a huge difference in ride quality, shift quality, shift timing/speed, noise, vibration and harshness, and throttle feel. (I already knew it would from my older 08 one but many don't have that knowledge prior)

So in short if you bother with changing/paying to have no4 changed just do no1 and 3 at the same time and it will help your car feel newer, quieter and ride better
 

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Demon Spawn
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Also to test this, either find a way to have something record the engine while you do the procedure or have a friend help.
I am not responsible for your stupidity, do this at your own risk, be smart
Either Find some way to record the engine or have a friend assist
if you have a friend, have him in the car, you watch the engine.

1st start the car and let it idle, note any movement other then small vibrations it makes.

2nd rev it to 2-3k rpm and hold it for a few seconds, you should see a fairly large movement of the engine up and either forward or backward and the come back down when you/your friend let off the gas.

3rd apply the parking brake full force and put it in drive (be careful) and watch again as it shifts to drive you may see the engine buck again, not good, then make sure the parking brake is on all the way (holding your left foot on the brake pedal can be more assuring as it will also engage the front brakes)

4th then rev the engine to 2-3k rpm steady and change rpm and hold for a few seconds, you should see engine bucking upon throttle application and anytime the rpms change a fair bit say from 2k-3k or 1k-2k, in gear. if you see engine physically raising up or changing places within the engine bay you need new motor mounts.

here is a video example of the mazda 3 engine with bad mounts and an example of what you want to watch for:

his are not too bad, I have seen worse movement, hell my 08 moved more then the one in this video when I checked mine, but good example to go by, his engine bucks as he gives it gas as I referred to, his was a quick check video the procedure I described gives you a more in depth test

motor mounts do more then dampen vibration and make a smooth ride they keep the engine in the car and keep you safe, so if they are bad better to change them then have a 600+ pound engine fall out of your car and take everything under the hood as well, while your running it over with no power steering or brakes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mounts

Good morning all,

These are EXACTLY the replies I was looking for. Thank you so much guys.

I spoke with a "Tony" at AWR yesterday afternoon out in California. Great man and very informative and more than helpful. He gave me some interesting info on the history of these mounts as well as what his aftermarket mount kits offer. He said if its my wifes daily driver, ABSOLUTELY go with Mazda dealership only mounts. No aftermarket OEM replacements, as Mazda realized sometime back they were subpar and have since made them a bunch better. He told me his mounts are more rigid and urethane and more for a NOT daily driver car. Very good and honest man.

I bought all three mounts yesterday from Mazda and will try my hand at replacing all three this coming Saturday. I'm using Youtube as a guide for the procedures as my OEM service manual has not arrived yet in the mail. Any added advice for my Saturdays work is more than welcome please.

Thank you again so much guys for your help. Couldn't have come at a better time.

Have a great day.

Sid
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Good morning all,

These are EXACTLY the replies I was looking for. Thank you so much guys.

I spoke with a "Tony" at AWR yesterday afternoon out in California. Great man and very informative and more than helpful. He gave me some interesting info on the history of these mounts as well as what his aftermarket mount kits offer. He said if its my wifes daily driver, ABSOLUTELY go with Mazda dealership only mounts. No aftermarket OEM replacements, as Mazda realized sometime back they were subpar and have since made them a bunch better. He told me his mounts are more rigid and urethane and more for a NOT daily driver car. Very good and honest man.

I bought all three mounts yesterday from Mazda and will try my hand at replacing all three this coming Saturday. I'm using Youtube as a guide for the procedures as my OEM service manual has not arrived yet in the mail. Any added advice for my Saturdays work is more than welcome please.

Thank you again so much guys for your help. Couldn't have come at a better time.

Have a great day.

Sid
1st off AWR mounts are great but as he said are not for just average daily driven cars, they are better for auto x'd cars. many aftermarket ones at autozone and the like are Chinese made and are more ridged then oem, but again these transfer more vibration. They also tend to use inferior rubber compounds, yet cost almost as much as dealer mounts.

the passenger mount is fairly straightforward its always best to have 2 people when doing motor mounts for emergencies or one work the bottom the other do the top type thing. you need a good solid place to support the engine, if you use the oil pan just be very careful. use a block of wood on the jack to help distribute the weight.

for the passenger one, the coolant tank must come off, looks simple but its a pain, those clips are a nightmare as they hold tight. 2 flat blades and some force will get it off, when you do get it off keep it flat and out of the way (if you turn it sideways or upside down you will spill the coolant everywhere, as it has expansion holes in it) then the passenger one is just 2 17mm bolts on the frame and 2 16 or 17mm (cant remember) nuts on the engine side. it will just slide right off and new one slide right in total time about 20 minutes to change (if the coolant tank doesn't give you too much fight) the driver rear (no1) is a 2 piece mount you will reuse the metal bracket that its attached to, its fairly straightforward, take the splash shield off, and un bolt it. now no4 I know is there, but I have never changed it myself so I am not 100% sure on the procedure, though I do know the battery, battery box/tray must come out and I think the Haynes manual states a few other ancillary things to move out of the way. youtube has tons of videos to help, you might also swing by the local parts store and get the Haynes manual for the car ($30 to save you $100s) it details how to change these mounts and gives decent pictures of the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sir,

As always, thanks again for the guidance. I'll let you know how it goes later this weekend.

Have a great day sir.

Sid
 

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Discussion Starter #7
KMS1990,

New to this forum as you can see. I see something under your name labeled "Thanks:". I am assuming that people have thanked you for your help along the way? How do I add to this?

Thanks

Sid
 

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Demon Spawn
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KMS1990,

New to this forum as you can see. I see something under your name labeled "Thanks:". I am assuming that people have thanked you for your help along the way? How do I add to this?

Thanks

Sid
cityjack, under the post you found helpful there will be 4 buttons "quote" "multi-quote" "quick reply" and "thanks" just simply hit the thanks button under the post. and welcome to the forum, post up some pics of your car so we can see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Afternoon kms,

Well that wasn't too terrible afterall. Started at 10:15 am and was cleaning up by 12:30. Not too shabby. 3 motor mounts in about 2 1/2 hours.

I figured I'd do the noisy known suspect mount under the battery tray first. The Youtube video I watched showed taking the airbox out and all those associated harnesses and what have you. NOT neccessary. Once the battery tray was out of the way, I was able to move the airbox and connected plate up and over enough to get the mount out. I cleaned everything I could get to. Anywhere metal was touching metal, I put a thin film of grease. Cleaned the 17mm bolts and nuts. Applied blue loctite and retorqued them down. Put it all back together. Then since the motor/tranny was supported I did the motor rear mount next. Easy enough. Again, thin film of grease for metal on metal. Cleaned the threads of the bolts and retorqued with blue loctite. Put the under cover/splash pan back on then started the last passenger side mount. To be honest, the hardest part of the job was moving them darn clips out of the way for the coolant reservoir. Swung that out of the may. Took that mount out. Same story, clean, grease where necessary, and loctite and retorque.

Took the car off jackstands and then put the battery back in. Started it up, no engine lights or anything so I didn't screw the ECU harness or plugs up. I was super gentle there.

I then took it for a spin. OH MY GOD! Its like new, just as you said. No creeks, squeaks, or noise at all. Rides quiet, smooth, and most of all, the wife is happy. So now I am happy and can get back to my bikes.

The tranny mount up under it has two, for the lack of a better word, rubber bumpers right next to where the 17mm bolt goes through. One was torn completely off and the other was close. I believe this was allowing the mount to move around giving me that awful squeak noise. The other two, didn't really see much wrong with either. But now I am riding completely new and it shows.

I have attached a few pics. Next, I need to put a serpentine belt on it. Closer looking at it today while I was under there and the coolant tank was out of the way revealed the little cracks all over it.

Thanks a ton man, I really appreciate all of your help and explanations.

Have a great rest of the weekend. My apologies for the prelude and bike in the background of the pics. The other toys.

Sid
 

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Demon Spawn
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758 Posts
Afternoon kms,

Well that wasn't too terrible afterall. Started at 10:15 am and was cleaning up by 12:30. Not too shabby. 3 motor mounts in about 2 1/2 hours.

I figured I'd do the noisy known suspect mount under the battery tray first. The Youtube video I watched showed taking the airbox out and all those associated harnesses and what have you. NOT neccessary. Once the battery tray was out of the way, I was able to move the airbox and connected plate up and over enough to get the mount out. I cleaned everything I could get to. Anywhere metal was touching metal, I put a thin film of grease. Cleaned the 17mm bolts and nuts. Applied blue loctite and retorqued them down. Put it all back together. Then since the motor/tranny was supported I did the motor rear mount next. Easy enough. Again, thin film of grease for metal on metal. Cleaned the threads of the bolts and retorqued with blue loctite. Put the under cover/splash pan back on then started the last passenger side mount. To be honest, the hardest part of the job was moving them darn clips out of the way for the coolant reservoir. Swung that out of the may. Took that mount out. Same story, clean, grease where necessary, and loctite and retorque.

Took the car off jackstands and then put the battery back in. Started it up, no engine lights or anything so I didn't screw the ECU harness or plugs up. I was super gentle there.

I then took it for a spin. OH MY GOD! Its like new, just as you said. No creeks, squeaks, or noise at all. Rides quiet, smooth, and most of all, the wife is happy. So now I am happy and can get back to my bikes.

The tranny mount up under it has two, for the lack of a better word, rubber bumpers right next to where the 17mm bolt goes through. One was torn completely off and the other was close. I believe this was allowing the mount to move around giving me that awful squeak noise. The other two, didn't really see much wrong with either. But now I am riding completely new and it shows.

I have attached a few pics. Next, I need to put a serpentine belt on it. Closer looking at it today while I was under there and the coolant tank was out of the way revealed the little cracks all over it.

Thanks a ton man, I really appreciate all of your help and explanations.

Have a great rest of the weekend. My apologies for the prelude and bike in the background of the pics. The other toys.

Sid
nice, yeah theyre not hard, just gotta get the engine supported and stuff out of the way. like the black with dark tint look. Belt will most likely be my next repair as well, mines OE but still looks fine so i'm just keeping an eye on it any time the hood is up, there are 2 belts on this car the a/c compressor is only thing on the 2nd one its a "stretch" belt that must be cut off to replace the main belt, special rental tool or moving the compressor and sliding it on will get a new one there easy.
 
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