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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I saw this in the 2010 MS3 workshop manual, page 30. I remember trying to search for best jack points when I started to mod, so I thought this would be helpful to others.



Jack Stand Points



Edit:
This also applies to the:
2011 2.5.
2012 Skyactiv.
 

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I have a pretty nice, big, low profile floor jack. Getting to the center of the front crossmember, where the X is, is not easy. You need a pretty serious jack for that. On either side of the crossmember there are spots I've used that can be accessed from in front of the front tire. Still requires a decent jack.

Since a full size floorjack and a jackstand cannot coexist at the body seams, my method to get the car on jackstands is pretty klunky. I jack up the front of the car at the standard bodyseam jacking point. This also lifts the back enough to get a jackstand under there. Then I lower the car, stick the jack in from in front of the front tire and lift from the front crossmember.

For tire rotation, I lift the front from the standard jack point, put jackstands in the back and under the crossmember just in case, then remove the wheels.

This car is a hassle get up on jack stands. If I tracked this car, I would probably weld something behind the stock front jack point to allow me to lift the whole side and get both jackstands under there at once. I can lift my Miata that way with a block of wood (and my old Mustang). Unfortunately the sideskirts are in the way on this one.
 

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This was extremely helpful. I've been at a loss for the real points!

I work in the Engine Auto Quality at Honda where I am constantly jacking cars up and removing and putting parts back on the cars, so no one should feel bad for not being able to figure this out.

I have been using various other points on the subframes to put jack stands. Near the front there are some round rubber pieces that are part of the suspension that stick through the subframe which are also viable options for jack stands. They're not ideal, but it's another option.

Good luck and be safe everyone!
 

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I have always just used the pinch weld when I jack up my cars. Works just fine and the jack stand fits right in the slip
 

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I just fuckered my pinch weld on the drivers side trying to jack it up there. Now the front quarter panel is misaligned. then I tried another spot (wrongly) and bent something else. Wish I would have looked here first. I might be getting my rotations and oil changes done for me from now on.
 

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I just fuckered my pinch weld on the drivers side trying to jack it up there. Now the front quarter panel is misaligned. then I tried another spot (wrongly) and bent something else. Wish I would have looked here first. I might be getting my rotations and oil changes done for me from now on.
The trick I use is this.

Right next to the pinch welds(front), there is a frame piece that leads to the middle of the car. Use this point(I saw Cobb lift the car via these points). Once you get the car up a little, stick some blocks(wood/cement) under the tire and lower the car. Do the same for the other side. This will give you the clearance to get the jack under from the front of the car and reach the main jack point(it is located directly behind the RMM center bolt and has an X to mark the spot). Takes a 1-2 min extra time to do this way, but well worth it.

For the jack stands, I use the same spot I used to jack the car up slightly.

I marked the spot in the pic(red boxes)
 

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Same for all unibody cars these days.

That said same, I use the weld seams. If you can fit a jack up under the centerline, by all means go ahead, but I have yet to see a jack that can fit all the way under there, and be able to actually lift the car.

The rear though that is how I do the rear.

My jack-stand points though are just inside the LCAs where there is a little circular cutout hole (hole is much smaller on gen2s), I stuff my stands in there, and then in the rear I put them on the weld seams.

I haven't had any issues with crushing or otherwise on anyone's car that I've worked on nor on my car.
 
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