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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Today, I had started my car for the second time as I was leaving the gas station and I had a CEL. I didn't notice anything weird with the car, no unusual sounds, no shuddering or anything like that so I drove it straight to an O'Reillys to get it diagnosed. When there, their scanner pulled a P2006 5 times reading "Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed". I've done some research on the issue and have some questions on it.

1.) From what I have read, there is a significant power loss associated with this error, I have no power loss what so ever. Is this common?
2.) Could this simply mean that my manifold is simply dirty? Could I clean it and would the code clear?
3.) Is this something that can be repaired in a decent amount of time with a not so high skill level? (i can do most things, but I tend to stay away from most engine repairs)
4.) Does the manifold have to completely off? If so, would it just be better to replace the whole manifold?

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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Edit, so you guys have some info on the car.

2010 Mazda 3i 2.0L 5-speed. Rebuilt motor was put in September of 2015 due to the first one completely blowing up.
 

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Could be a number of things. Carbon build up on butterfly plates, bad sensor, loose or dirty sensor connection, bad solenoid, MAP sensor is failing, vacuum leak......
 

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No vacuum leaks as far as I can tell. I checked that. I'm leaning towards a bad sensor because I have absolutely 0 power loss across all ranges. But I'm honestly thinking of just doing the VTCS delete.. I don't know yet.
 

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Demon Spawn
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•Intake manifold runner that is faulty or clogged
•Shorted or open wiring harness
•Intake manifold runner control solenoid that has failed
•Electrical connection that is poor

p2006 is bank one so right most cylinder, from the hood the furthest to the driver side is the cylinder with the issue. if you take your intake manifold off be sure to 1 change the gasket minimum 2 go ahead and change the pcv valve as the intake manifold must come off for this anyhow. like arathol said it could be a number of things and the rebuilt motor was it ceaned well before install or do you know? if it was dirty the intake may just have some carbon build up that running some seafoam through will clear. or you could take the intake off and soak it in chemdip and use a soft tooth brush to scrub er clean as best you can. but more then likely its a faulty solenoid.

this is the solenoid: 2004-2013 Mazda 3 Intake Manifold Runner Valve - Air Intake - Dorman 04-13 3 Intake Manifold Runner Valve - 17958-05321263 - PartsGeek
this is the diagram of the intake form jim ellis mazda:ACTUATOR, SHUTTER VALVE. INLET MANIFOLD (2300CC) for 2010 Mazda 3. #L3BT20170
part number 18-471c should be your faulty solenoid to check. looks like it requires intake removal anyhow to access it so I would clean the intake get a new gasket and change the pcv valve all in one swoop while checking this solenoid. it could be a wire came loose or the plug but its a common solenoid that is used for many things on many brands of cars and they fail, it has moving parts.

how to seafoam: http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...2265-how-seafoam-your-mazda-3-2-3l-motor.html

this is my how to from my 08 with the 2.3 but the L series (non skyactive from 04-13) all are based on the same block only difference on yours is more then likely what my 11 was, the red clip im pointing to will be blue and square on yours whereas it was red and round clip on the 08. you should see a hose running to beside your throttle body going perpendicular to it at 90 degrees when it connects it will have a cclip, if its square simply push the colored part down until it unlocks, you may have to finagle with it but it just slides down and unclips. you need a piece of 3/8" ID hose 1-3 foot to attach to the nipple you unclipped the other hose from, this allows you to suck in the seafoam.
 
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