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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2010 Mazda 3: Wimpy Horn Upgrade

Time to build the new wiring assembly: 15 - 30 minutes
Time to install the additional horn: 30 - 45 minutes

Tools needed:
Wire Stripper
Flash light
Phillips Head screw driver
10mm Ratchet



Parts needed:
Assorted Quick Disconnects (with ends that can be crimped)
14 Gauge Automotive Wiring
Electrical Tape (recommend Scotch 33+, temp range is from sub-zero to 221 degrees)
Low tone horn (I chose the cheap $15 FIAMM Freeway Blaster)



For the wiring harness, I used to two 3” equal pieces of 14 Gauge automotive wiring.



Twist the two end pieces together and carefully place the MALE disconnect over the wire and crimp. Use the FEMALE disconnects on the other two ends. As a side note (for safety sake), I wrapped all of the connects with electrical tape just to make sure everything was secure. (Forgot to take a pic, so I borrowed the one above from the Mazda3Forums)

INSTALLATION


Step 1 - Under the right side of the vehicle (directly behind the fog light), remove the three screws holding the plastic flashing cover to the vehicle.


Step 2 - Push back the piece of plastic


Step 3 - Look past the plastic housing shielding the fog light.


Step 4 - See the horn? Looks very similar to the prior generation of the Mazda 3.



Step 5 & 6 - Remove the plug from the current horn by depressing the center plastic piece on the plug (yes, I was a moron sitting there tugging and complaining. lots of creative language was used until common sense kicked in) :stupid:


Step 7 - I chose to leave the bracket attached to the car, instead removing the bolt attaching the horn. Attach the ground plug to the new horn (read instructions for which pole is positive and negative) and loosely connect the extension bracket (depending on what vehicle you have, you may need to jockey the horn into a new position). I held the old horn, grounding plug and extension bracket (with the second horn attached) together at the screw attachment (connected to the original horn) and carefully pushed everything up and into the car. I re-attached the nut and adjusted the horns to fit within the cavity. (If you are having difficulty moving around, you can disconnect the two power cables for the Fogs to the left. The plastic clip easily came loose and re-attached easily after I had the horns mounted.) TAKE YOUR TIME, AS THIS IS SLIGHTLY FRUSTRATING. SPACE IS LIMITED.


Step 8 - You can now see everything is connected up and tightened into place. I have my horns facing directly down (toward the ground)

Step 9 - (no pic included, sorry) I attached the female connectors to the horns (push ‘em all the way on). Now, connect the male to the power wire coming from the car (this should have a CLICK sound. Be careful, this is a live wire. No need to disconnect the power, if you are careful)

Step 10 - (no pic included) Re-apply the plastic flashing cover with the Phillips head screws. YOU ARE DONE.

NOTE TO SELF: This new horn combination is SUPER LOUD. Don’t be an idiot like me and test the new horn in an enclosed space (garage). I about deafened myself.

Good luck to y’all! With a bit of patience and about $20 bucks, you too can improve your wimpy horn setup!

Glenn
Dallas, TX

P.S. Instructions written for previous generation 3's were of good help! See them at the following locations:
A beginner's guide to Upgrading the whimpy stock HORN - w/ pics
Our horns, high or low?
 

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Thats a really nice write up. I'm NOT a car person (I'm a computer tech) and honestly probably couldn't change my oil (hopefully that's an exaggeration). With these instructions i'm totally confident i'll be able to get this working by myself!

Did you add on just the low-tone or a second high-tone? Also, if i wanted to replace the factory horn as well as add in a second horn would i need to do anything different besides removing the factory horn? Would there be any concerns with the wiring/voltages or is the factory horn a 12v as well?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats a really nice write up. I'm NOT a car person (I'm a computer tech) and honestly probably couldn't change my oil (hopefully that's an exaggeration). With these instructions i'm totally confident i'll be able to get this working by myself!

Did you add on just the low-tone or a second high-tone? Also, if i wanted to replace the factory horn as well as add in a second horn would i need to do anything different besides removing the factory horn? Would there be any concerns with the wiring/voltages or is the factory horn a 12v as well?

Thanks again!
Low-tone Freeway Blaster added to the stock high tone unit. Both are made by FIAMM. No other changes are required if you want to replace the factory horn and add a second. Remember, the fuse is limited to 15A. Don't exceed this or you will have to make more electrical changes.
 

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Just finished this mod a few minutes ago. I have a few comments.

  • You also need a 8mm socket to remove the splash guard. The 10mm is for the horn.
  • I do not recommend removing the bracket. I thought I'd give it a try, but it was just too much of a PITA to reinstall with the horns on it. I took the horns off, re-mounted the bracket, and finished it.
  • Overall, not too bad, but there is very limited space to work with. I'd say it's better if you drive the car up on ramps or put the front end on stands. I dunno. Either you're a contorsionist or I did something wrong, lol.
  • Use this as an opportunity to get a good set of crimpers. I've used the cheap ones before and they will straight-up destroy connections (notice the difference in my connections and the ones in the other pic). Good crimpers will not and they last forever. I prefer the simple ones like this: - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Also, here's a pic for you to replace the one from the other site. I'd rather keep this a M3R article ;)


Good mod. I'm happy with the results. It sounds like a real car now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Excellent! Thanks Derrick! I have put your pic up in place. There are several ways to complete this update (attached other options at the end of my original post). This is an annoying but necessary upgrade. Most folks don't take the OEM horn serious. I went out this evening had my first opportunity to put my new combo to use. Needless to say, it definitely satisfied my needs.
 

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Horns are a very low-cost and worthwhile upgrade. I put dual-note Hellas on my P5. I just couldn't stand being cut off by everyone with my single note "squeaker" horn. At least the new 3s have "trumpet" type horns, rather than just the buzzing disc like my P5 and the older imports had.
 

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Just bought the low tone for $15 and am making my wire splicer.

One thing I'm confused about is the jumper.

Isn't that unnecessary? Doesn't the fact that both horns have their main bolt connector connected to the harness (which is connected to the chassis) sufficient? Or is it just a precaution in case the connection between two harnesses cease to conduct?
 

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Just bought the low tone for $15 and am making my wire splicer.

One thing I'm confused about is the jumper.

Isn't that unnecessary? Doesn't the fact that both horns have their main bolt connector connected to the harness (which is connected to the chassis) sufficient? Or is it just a precaution in case the connection between two harnesses cease to conduct?
It grounds through the chassis. The splitter is for power. The male end goes to the car's stock wiring. Each of the female ends go to a horn's + terminal.
 

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Ok, so the ground wire is attached to the bracket and goes to the negative terminal on the new horn. How does the original horn get grounded?
The OEM horn's ground is internally connected to the mounting bolt, so it grounds through the bolt-bracket-chassis. Pretty simple.
 

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There isn't an internal grounding wire on the secondary horn like the first one. That's why the wire is required. It is a bit of an annoyance....especially holding everything together. :cursing 1:
Yeah, it surprised me as well. However, it means you could mount it to just about anything. I'm sure that's why it's made that way.
 
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