2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was nearing being finished replacing the rear shocks and shock mounts.
I BROKE ONE OF THE TWO MOUNT STUDS. There was a lot of corrosion and crud and it broke!
Dag nabbit
Those studs don't just drive up and out? They are welded in at the top.
Any tips?
I am going to drill the stud out (if it's not Grade 8) from the bottom right through the flat head that's welded at the top. I might tap the hope to accept a 12 mm stud and use high strength Loctite; maybe put a 'lock' nut on the top with some high strength Loctite. What minimum grade of bolt will suffice? That should hold it in place without sacrificing the strength of the body metal like what would happen if I were to force remove the original welded stud head.
The biggest problem is locating the stud/bolt/nut on a Sunday.
:|
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It seems like removing the original head causes too much damage to the body metal for my liking.
I think a weld on top of the stud where it comes through the original 'head' is better than hacking the body metal. If I haven't got my welder by the time I need to finish this, I think my idea of drilling and tapping through the original head, with a 'lock' nut up there is good enough too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It seems like removing the original head causes too much damage to the body metal for my liking.
I think a weld on top of the stud where it comes through the original 'head' is better than hacking the body metal. If I haven't got my welder by the time I need to finish this, I think my idea of drilling and tapping through the original head, with a 'lock' nut up there is good enough too.
I will post some pictures of the fix too.
 

·
Mazda "E" Division
Joined
·
1,255 Posts
It seems like removing the original head causes too much damage to the body metal for my liking.
I think a weld on top of the stud where it comes through the original 'head' is better than hacking the body metal. If I haven't got my welder by the time I need to finish this, I think my idea of drilling and tapping through the original head, with a 'lock' nut up there is good enough too.
Good for a temp fix
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top