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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 Mazda 3

My horn got wet and it sounded muffled, I replaced it with a new horn and all was well for a few months. Then I started getting intermittent failure of the horn. Some days it would be fine and some days when locking the car it fails to beep.

I have checked the horn fuse under the hood. When the horn is not working and I press the key to lock the car and sound it I DO hear the relay clicking in the front fuse box. Maybe it is still bad?

More concerning this past week I have developed an intermittent problem with the AT Shifter being stuck in Park. It happened on Monday when I made a stop on my drive home from work. After returning to my car the shifter would not move out of park. I tried it about a dozen times, pressing the brake, even restarting the car between some tries. It finally worked and I was able to drive home.

After getting home I parked it and tested it some more and it was intermittently failing. It would get stuck in park 9 out of 10 tries. I did some research and learned I could override it manually with the shift lock override using a small pen or screwdriver. When I went outside later that night to test the override I found the car was behaving normally and the problem had gone away.

Drove to work the rest of the week and the shifter worked perfect every time.

Today, after 5 days of no issues with the shifter it is now locking up in park at least 9 out of 10 times, maybe more. It DOES work properly sometimes so it isn't failing completely.

Things I have checked:

I pulled the fuses for anything related to the horn/brakes and they all look good (I'm going to pull every fuse tomorrow)
The brake lights do appear to be working when the brake pedal is pressed yet the shifter won't move out of park. (going to test more tomorrow)


What else could I check or replace?
Could the brake pedal switch be failing to activate the shifter solenoid but still be lighting up the brake lights?
I saw some threads for older generation Mazda's that indicated there was a passenger junction box that could be the culprit, but I haven't found any reference to the 2010 and newer Mazda's having that box?
I've seen some indication that the horn & shift lock issue may be related, a few threads for the pre-2010 Mazda3's saying that their horn was not working along with the shifter being locked into park.
I don't know much about relays... when the horn does not work the horn relay still click's under the hood which I found a thread saying that meant the relay worked but I'm tempted to try replacing it anyway since it is only $10 bucks.


Trying to avoid a trip to the dealer that will cost a fortune.
 

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Just a quick note, I encountered this issue several years ago. My mechanic showed me that trick. Because it's been so long ago, I can't recall the exact issue that he cited, something like a brake sensor malfunction. Needless to say he said it really wasn't worth fixing if I was ok with using the bypass trick. I decided to remove that little panel and have a small screwdriver next to it. Not a single problem since. Occasionally I won't have to use it but I'm totally comfortable if I have to. Not the ideal fix but I'm cool with it. Just sharing my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah, my intermittent problem has now over the weekend become constant. A screwdriver works to override it, but I don't want to do that constantly.

I still can't track down the problem. I took apart the center console and I have a multimeter but the service manual's test procedure for the selector lever connector voltage is a little light on the details. Can anyone good with electrical stuff give me some better directions?

Images: http://imgur.com/a/GFJ1S









I have a multimeter like this: 7 Function Multimeter

Page 05-18-11 in the service manual has some instructions for testing the voltage:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w4t520p39a17yx3/Screen Shot 2016-04-19 at 10.12.56 PM.png?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jw7ks16le2yz8wc/Screen Shot 2016-04-19 at 10.13.04 PM.png?dl=0


I got access to that electrical connector and I see which pins map to the diagram, but how should I connect the multimeter probes?
For instance to test "E" with the brake pedal depressed which probe goes in the "E" pin connector and where does the other probe go? Ground to metal on the car? I'm also confused, if I remove the negative battery cable is there any signal even being sent when the pedal is pressed? Also... What does B+ for the voltage reading mean? What would I see on the multimeter?

Also... maybe a really stupid question... is the shop manual saying to test the connector on the shifter side or the connector going to the car? I'm assuming the car side to see if the signal from pressing the brake is coming to the shifter?


I checked with my local Mazda dealer and the whole shifter lever assembly is one part and costs about $500. They also said they don't stock the part and have never sold one so either I have bad luck and mine is failing or maybe...hopefully it is something simpler?

I also removed the horn, and reconnected it on the weekend... seems to be working consistently now. I'd love to clean the connector on the wire but I can't put the car on ramps so getting at that wire is really difficult and awkward.
 

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My car just started this intermitent shifting from parke to drive problem. it is a 2010 mazda 3 sport. did you ever solve this? please let me know. tnx!
 

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Hi I had this same problem with it not moving from park to reverse unless my foot was down really hard on the brake pedal. I had previously replaced the brake switch but this wasn't the fix. I took it to the dealer and they advised it's faulty shift interlock solenoid - part from Melbourne and install = $1300. Apparently the part is so expensive because it's the whole piece they sell not just the part I need replacing on its own.
 

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I have a 2010 Mazda 3

My horn got wet and it sounded muffled, I replaced it with a new horn and all was well for a few months. Then I started getting intermittent failure of the horn. Some days it would be fine and some days when locking the car it fails to beep.

I have checked the horn fuse under the hood. When the horn is not working and I press the key to lock the car and sound it I DO hear the relay clicking in the front fuse box. Maybe it is still bad?

More concerning this past week I have developed an intermittent problem with the AT Shifter being stuck in Park. It happened on Monday when I made a stop on my drive home from work. After returning to my car the shifter would not move out of park. I tried it about a dozen times, pressing the brake, even restarting the car between some tries. It finally worked and I was able to drive home.

After getting home I parked it and tested it some more and it was intermittently failing. It would get stuck in park 9 out of 10 tries. I did some research and learned I could override it manually with the shift lock override using a small pen or screwdriver. When I went outside later that night to test the override I found the car was behaving normally and the problem had gone away.

Drove to work the rest of the week and the shifter worked perfect every time.

Today, after 5 days of no issues with the shifter it is now locking up in park at least 9 out of 10 times, maybe more. It DOES work properly sometimes so it isn't failing completely.

Things I have checked:

I pulled the fuses for anything related to the horn/brakes and they all look good (I'm going to pull every fuse tomorrow)
The brake lights do appear to be working when the brake pedal is pressed yet the shifter won't move out of park. (going to test more tomorrow)


What else could I check or replace?
Could the brake pedal switch be failing to activate the shifter solenoid but still be lighting up the brake lights?
I saw some threads for older generation Mazda's that indicated there was a passenger junction box that could be the culprit, but I haven't found any reference to the 2010 and newer Mazda's having that box?
I've seen some indication that the horn & shift lock issue may be related, a few threads for the pre-2010 Mazda3's saying that their horn was not working along with the shifter being locked into park.
I don't know much about relays... when the horn does not work the horn relay still click's under the hood which I found a thread saying that meant the relay worked but I'm tempted to try replacing it anyway since it is only $10 bucks.


Trying to avoid a trip to the dealer that will cost a fortune.
I am having the same gear shift problem. I got stuck at school tonight, but lucky for me, my boss rescued me. He set the emergency brake and rocked the car three times. Then he was able to get it out of "park". I was able to drive home. I'd be interested in how this problem is resolved. Thanks!
 

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I also have this issue. Replaced brake switch, didn't do anything. Checked fuses, nothing blown. Pretty ghetto to have to push the park override switch every time I need to drive from park. I use my Mz3 to Uber and anything that may be perceived as an problem will affect my rating and tips. Really hoping for a simply solution.
 

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same problem

I have the problem with 2012 Skyactive Mazda 3 as original poster.

So check fuses and brake pedal switch, what else

shift interlock solenoid?
 

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Same issue:
I have a 2011 hatchback. Intermittent 95% of the time, wont shift out of park.
Replaced switch at break pedal. Did not help.
Bought ebay shifter assembly. Easy to swap. That changed the symptoms, worked a couple of times. Had a funny sound so I was thinking linkage not perfectly adjusted. Drove it a few weeks.
It would rarely properly let me out of park.
It added a new symptom of car would not turn over in park.
Did the manual mechanical bypass to shift to neutral and starts fine.
That is a rare symptom. I did not know to look for the P park indicator in the instrument cluster at the time.
Diagnosing that problem suggests the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission.
I just put the original shifter assembly back in and I have not yet had the problem of not starting in park.
The Neutral Safety Switch has more than one or two wires, so it could be involved in complicated logic?
I wonder if the Neutral Safety Switch could be causing the problem of not letting it shift out of park?
$45 part. Looks easy. But nobody has mentioned it as related to the shift interlock.
I may try that. Wisdom?

It is my daughters car and she wants it fixed for valet parker's.
 
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