2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the story is that I really wanted angel eyes for my Mazda3. My buddy is VW guy, but loves a good project. This DIY took place over a three day weekend and took 2 guys approx. 30-35hrs to complete. This won't be a 100% complete DIY, so you'll have to fill in a few places with your own creativity.

And here if you want to see his Jetta HID E55 Retrofit.

Parts List:
- Umnitza Predator Orion V2 Angel Eyes (the 2010+ was ordered, but we received the 2009 versions - More on that later)
- Umnitza Wiring Harness (optional, but easier in our case)
- DDM 6000K HID Kit (previously installed)
- Low Tone Horn (side mod)
- K&N CAI (side mod)
- This stuff, tools, and other odds n ends:


This mod is not for the faint of heart. Tearing apart your headlights is a scary task, so proceed with caution if you undertake this project.

First remove bumper - Great write-up here for horn upgrade too

If that was difficult....STOP NOW!!

Still don't want to heed my warning....

- Remove lens from headlight. You can use your oven at like 200F for 10-15min, but these suckers are huge and likely won't fit in your standard oven. We used a heat gun - one heated up the edge while the other pulled apart. It took a while to get the groove, but the second light took 20min. We started from the inside corner and moved out to the blinker edge. Cover the lenses with Press 'n Seal to protect them.

Start taking apart the light - turn signal reflector, projector shroud, high beam reflector, and amber reflector.

Wet-sand the shroud, turn signal, and amber reflector with 800grit wet/dry sandpaper using a bowl of water/dish soap. The chrome paint comes off pretty easy and exposes the white/grey plastic underneath. You want to get as much of the chrome off to get the best results. Hang parts on line. Clean with alcohol. Dry. Paint will start later.

We did not paint the high beam reflectors - so we got right to it. Install high beam angel eye.
As you can see, in the pics we have, they are already done.

The basic walk through is that you need to mount these securely and evenly in the reflector. Once you figure out where you want it, secure the bottom edge with clear RTV sealant. OR, you could REALLY secure it down with some fishing line - it's clear, it's thin, and it's strong. Drill two holes on each side of the ring, loop fish line around the ring 5-10x and tie it on the inside. We drilled holes, put RTV down, then threaded line.

Use a dremel to cut out a small section of the top edge of the reflector to allow the ring wiring to pass through. Seal/secure wire down (we use clear RTV)

Start to reassemble if you like. That little red wire with the black panel is the LED circuit board. You plug the two rings into that then plug the board into the wiring harness.

Testing the circuits and rings. (We'll get to the wiring harness later)


When we had every thing prepped and was ready to start mounting the rings, we realized that the kit we had wasn't for the 2010+....we got the 09 version. WTF!!! If you look closely, the 2010+ rings have LEDs around the entire ring but the 09 rings have a spacer/gap. Also, the diameter of the 09 rings are smaller and don't fit into the shroud the right way.

Had to improvise at this point. We cut the spacer out with a Dremel, compressed the rings with heavy zip ties, and secured them to the front face of the shroud using JB Weld. We weren't sure how well the JB Weld would hold the compressed tension in the long run, so we used the fishing line method again. You can see the three points below.

^Although you see the shroud painted and projector installed, we mounted the rings first then painted. Just carefully taped off the rings first.

- Wet sand with 600/1000 grit, removing as much chrome as possible. Clean.
- Hang on line
- Spray with clear adhesion promoter (helps paint stick to plastic). 3-4 coats, 15-20min dry time between coats.
- Spray with paint of choice (we color-matched with Mz Black Mica). 2-3 very thin coats, 30-40min between coats. 2 full coverage coats, 1-2hrs between coats.
- Spray with clear coat


There are a few ways you can wire these up, but without getting into the gritty details (unless you want them) the wiring harness seemed to be the best option.

Mount the relay to the side of the battery box. Attach harness red wire to (+) battery, attach harness black wire to ground (-).

Here's a stolen pic of the harness. The only difference was the color of the trigger wires. The driver side trigger was yellow, and pass side was white.

Another issue is that the harness comes with bullet terminals, and the rings come with a 194 wedge bulb end. We cut the wedge bulb end out, stripped, and crimped matching bullet end terminals. Our red and black wires didn't match the polarity we needed, so just make sure you test the circuit and use the correct male/female terminal.

As for the trigger, we tapped into the parking light wire on the driver side. Our harness only needed one trigger wire so we used the driver side. Just solder in a small wire extension to the orange wire and add spade terminal. Wrapped everything really well with electrical tape.

Orange - Parking light
Pink - Turn signal
Black - Common ground

We took this time to permanently fix the parking light, we snipped the two center contact wires on the bottom of the bulb. No taping over and it's permanent.


So the paint is dry, the rings are all mounted and the wiring harness is prepped and ready.

Reassemble the high beam, low beam, and turn signal.

Slop mount your headlamps and test your wiring:

Happy with everything? Then go get your heat gun again.

Heat up the black rubber butyl while a buddy compresses everything in place. Start in the opposite direction from lens removal. Start at the turn signal corner since that side needs to really slide into the housing. Otherwise the rest of the lens won't seat correctly. Just keep heating while compressing the lens into the housing. Let cool. Add RTV clear sealant between lens and housing to create a waterproof seal.

Final impression:

These things a SUPER bright!! I've never seen and LED that bright before...honestly. Pretty upset that Umnitza sent the wrong kit, but everything was torn apart and we couldn't turn back. The rings themselves are SUPER high quality and SUPER bright. The wires for the rings and the wires for the harness are a bit cheap, so you just have to have a delicate hand when working with everything.

These color match the 6000K DDM HID kit almost perfectly!! Some of the pics are a bit out of focus or give the rings a purple hue, but they are bright white. Here ya go:


292 Posts
Great writeup and pictures. I didn't know that this was a kit made especially for our cars. I thought it was something a little more "home made" like some of the ones over on M3F. Also, not that it's a big deal, but there is a How-To section to post guides like this. Dunston can probably move this thread there since this might get overlooked just being in the General Discussion tab.

1,074 Posts
whats the diameter for the halo on the low beam?

703 Posts
Looks awesome! I'd love to do this too, but I'm afraid I'd damage something in the process.

42 Posts
quick question. Did the high beam halo impede the light output from the high beams themselves? from the pictures it looks like they may be blocking some of the light. I only asked because im trying this with a ccfl set off of amazon for the previous generation as well

scratch that i went umnitza as well. and just like u i recieved the wrong kit

46 Posts
Excellent job and write-up! If I believed in my DIY skills more, I'd definitely give it a whirl. May I suggest blacking out the fog-light holders? Would complete that front-end IMO!

19 Posts
Does this mod mess with the adaptive headlights at all?
1 - 20 of 34 Posts