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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2007 Mazda 3 Grand touring Hatchback with a 2.3L with the 5 speed manual transmission. Its in pretty nice shape on inside and the outside has some chips, scratches and dings but overall its a fairly nice car. It has 182K miles but as far as the engine, clutch and trans it shifts well and seems to have a decent amount of power in it. I bought this as a "nice" beater/fuel saver to get to work and so I can haul the dog around without getting hair in our new cars.

So far I plan to add the Corksport short throw shifter or maybe a cheap ebay one. I have looked around the forums a bunch but I cant really see if there is a go to intake/exhaust for the car. Or are they even worth doing? The only thing wrong with it was the diver cv axle boot was split and throwing grease everywhere and I read that many people have problems with the driver axle seal so I replaced it as well while replacing the whole driver half shaft.

So I have a few questions. Is there things in the drive train that i need to look out for? In general how long do these cars last? Would it be worth spending the money on the SRI Corksport intake as well as the full exhaust for power gain for spirited driving? I read about the throttle grounding mod but is there anything other than that, that is a must have mod for the car?
 

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mods

I have a build thread in this same subsection of the forum that can give you some ideas. My CAI is growing on me, but it would not be my first mod and I don't think an exhaust would be worth the price tag.
 

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Your Mazda3 is a Gen1 version, and I love these. Some folks have 300k miles on their Gen1 and their cars are still on the road!

Things to watch for with the amount of miles you have are leaking struts, broken motor mounts, wheel bearings. The 2.3L engine is also prone to oil consumption. Make sure you check your oil every 500 miles for a while to be absolutely certain that your engine is not consuming oil. You won't see it from the tailpipe, so don't think just because you don't see evidence of burning oil that your car is fine.
 

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Thanks for input guys. I will get pics uploaded when i have some free time. Completely cleaned out the interior and thoroughly detailed it. Shampooed the seats and carpets. Replaced the valve cover gaskets (no sludge whatsoever, very clean inside), spark plugs, CV axles, transmission axle seals, front brakes, and an oil change. The body and interior were in good condition but I only paid $2000 for the car so I figured I could spend some $$ to make it in great condition.

I bought this car for a daily driver for my 30 mile one way work commute but it seems to be in great mechanical condition. Drove it 200 miles, one way, out to my parents this weekend for mothers day, and am fairly confident in its reliability. The clutch engages smoothly and doesn't slip under full tilt driving (the car accelerates harder than my wife's 2017 3 sport with the 2.0) but the friction point seems very early when pressure is applied to the clutch. I am not sure if that is normal or if the clutch is just fairly worn. Does not look like it will be terribly hard to replace either when the time comes.

I am currently working on the A/C system and trying to get it running. I will probably make another post in the right section of the forum but if anyone here has any experience with A/Cs that would be appreciated! Wanting to get it fixed asap. So far we have been lucky and its stayed in the 70s but it wont be long till its in the 100s here.
 

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Thanks for input guys. I will get pics uploaded when i have some free time. Completely cleaned out the interior and thoroughly detailed it. Shampooed the seats and carpets. Replaced the valve cover gaskets (no sludge whatsoever, very clean inside), spark plugs, CV axles, transmission axle seals, front brakes, and an oil change. The body and interior were in good condition but I only paid $2000 for the car so I figured I could spend some $$ to make it in great condition.

I bought this car for a daily driver for my 30 mile one way work commute but it seems to be in great mechanical condition. Drove it 200 miles, one way, out to my parents this weekend for mothers day, and am fairly confident in its reliability. The clutch engages smoothly and doesn't slip under full tilt driving (the car accelerates harder than my wife's 2017 3 sport with the 2.0) but the friction point seems very early when pressure is applied to the clutch. I am not sure if that is normal or if the clutch is just fairly worn. Does not look like it will be terribly hard to replace either when the time comes.
If that's the case with the oil gallery, you're good to go. The OE valve cover gaskets were a bad design. I happened to catch mine in time at a service internal when I found two spark plugs had oil soaked threads. The real kicker was the fasteners on the driver's side were very loose. I used Blue LocTite on all when I replaced the gasket.

I am currently working on the A/C system and trying to get it running. I will probably make another post in the right section of the forum but if anyone here has any experience with A/Cs that would be appreciated! Wanting to get it fixed asap. So far we have been lucky and its stayed in the 70s but it wont be long till its in the 100s here.
Where is "here"? You don't have it noted in the location of your profile.
 

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I am currently working on the A/C system and trying to get it running. I will probably make another post in the right section of the forum but if anyone here has any experience with A/Cs that would be appreciated! Wanting to get it fixed asap. So far we have been lucky and its stayed in the 70s but it wont be long till its in the 100s here.

I was speaking with my mechanic buddy yesterday. His A/C charging unit failed due to being plugged up with the stop leak crap in do-it-yourself A/C recharge kits being sold to us consumers over the counter. It's causing problems for many shops. His advice was not to use that stuff, and if you do then go to a shop, do the shop a favor and let them know you used it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am in eastern Kansas. It gets just about as hot and humid as anywhere here. But I will probably start commuting with my motorcycle as well as soon as we have a clear forcast. I am fairly sure the compressor is locked up. Either that or something is bound up with the clutch because the assembly does not turn. I was looking at UAC kits on rockauto/online. Seems like I can get all of the components except for a condenser for around $260 and a condenser for another 50 to 70 bucks. A shop quoted me $1600 to $2025 for parts and labor. I have all the equipment to work on it so I am just going to do it myself over the course of a week or two. Doesnt seem like a terribly difficult task. Just quite a few hours of disassembly and reassembling with new components. Youtube as well as this forum should make it easy enough to get through.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 2017 DRZ 400 SM. Depending on how i drive it gets 30 to 70mpg... I would like to get the A/C fixed so we can use this car for errands/trips to keep miles off of the wife's 2017 Mazda 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I used to commute through the city to get to my previous place of employment. The DRZ was a blast. Now that I commute 27 miles on the interstate I wish i got the FZ-09 or another Ninja. The drz is a proven bike and a great design. It just is annoying sometimes at high speed. My next ride will probably be an S 1000 RR. Trying to decide if I want to buy it or make a down payment on a Charger Hellcat...
 
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