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Hey guys this my first time on here ,I'm just hoping u guys could help me out with a few tips. I have a 06 mazda 3 2.0l but I'm trying to upgrade to either the 2.0 ford EcoBoost or the regular ford 2.5 engine, but I wanna kno if I have to change my transmission as well along with the engine computer? Rite now I have a automatic transmission, but if have to change it,I would just go change to manual instead. Do this swap even make sense? Cause I wanna kno for sure tht it fit,because base on my research it seems like it will fit .
 

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Check out the thread "Engine Swap Idea -- Let's Brainstorm" started by Gary_L. In there I'm adding information on the Ecoboost swap as I find it. So far, at least from what I find off the internet, it has not been done into another late model Mazda (3 or 6). People are only putting the EB into early model Miata roadsters and a bunch of early Fords like the Fox-body mustang, the SVO, etc. The EB swap will require a new ECU and motor mounts and such. All-in-all it'll be somewhat expensive since the engines (WITH turbo) go for about $1200 - that's double the cost of a 2.5L NA motor. The ECU and stuff will be expensive. And you need a complete wiring harness. Custom exhaust and motor mount too.

The 2.5L engine swap is perfect. I did it, and others have. It only requires very minor modifications and can be done by a dedicated DIY person. The 2.5L engines are cheap and plentiful and give a nice added hp and torque boost. It works with your existing ECU and will look and sound like a 2.5L Mazda engine when all is said and done. Many folks have gone this route.

The '06-'09 Mazda3 are all the same. My daughter has an '07 2.0L automatic and I put in a 2.5L duratec from a '12 Fusion donor vehicle. I'll give you all the information you want.
 

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Thank you man a appreciate tht so I guess imma go that route with the 2.5l ford engine imma just get like 2013 or 14 something newer with less mileage , that EcoBoost sounds like a lot that I'm not trying to do. But this was really helpful man but what about my transmission that I already have,? Can it wrk with the ford 2.5 engine or I have to change tht as well?
 

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Your transmission will bolt up exactly to the new engine. Keep it! All the Ford and Mazda L engines (L3 = 2.3L, LF = 2.0L) share the same block including the 2.0, 2.3, 2.5.

Going from a 2.0, instead of a 2.3, to a 2.5 takes just a little more cost. Not extra work, but cost. Whether you are going from a 2.0 or a 2.3 to the Ford Duratec, you'll be using a Mazda valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. You are stripping down the Ford engine to the long block. That's actually quite easy to do because you're just taking off all the external junk.

This is a long post, but I cover five areas for you that are important.

1) The head on a 2.3 AND 2.5 is taller than on a 2.0 by 1/2". This impacts you three ways. Since you'll be keeping the serpentine belt config of the Mazda (2 belts instead of 1 super long belt for the Ford) you need to BUY a used 2.3L Mazda timing cover. Your old timing cover is short by 1/2". The 2.3 Mazda timing cover is the exact same size as the 2.5 Ford. Also, because the head is taller, the engine needs to sit higher as supported by the motor mount. Old Mazda3 motor mounts are typically already broken, lol, so do yourself a favor and buy a 2.3L Mazda passenger side motor mount. I just went ahead and replaced all three since you can get a set for something like $60 (aftermarket, not OEM). Lastly, the exhaust manifold will not mate up to the support bracket without a spacer, because the exhaust manifold is attached to the head, and the support bracket is attached to the block. You will have a gap of exactly 1/2", so go to an Ace Hardware and buy some machined 1/2" spacers to put between the bracket and the manifold. Don't go all redneck engineering and put in a stack of washers to fill the gap. :) Spend $2 and get two super cool spacers.

2) You need to buy a used 2.3L Mazda oil pan OR do a balance shaft delete (BSD). The 2.0L engine does not use a balance shaft - acts as a counterbalance to the crankshaft to prevent vibrations. The 2.3 and 2.5 do use a balance shaft. A BSD is cheap, and makes the engine more responsive since there is less rotating weight, but you might find that you have undesirable vibrations. I left the balance shaft in and put in the deeper 2.3L pan. Oh, and you MUST match the oil pickup tube with the pan!! If you want to keep the Ford pan, stick with the Ford oil pickup tube. But you'll have to relocate the A/C compressor since the Mazda pan has the compressor sitting in a recess of the pan. The Ford pan does not have a deep end and a shallow end - just deep all the way. Some people keep the higher capacity Ford pan and relocate the A/C compressor.

3) You'll keep keeping the water pump pulley. Stick with the Ford water pump, just use the Mazda pulley. And you must use the Mazda crank pulley because it has the right timing marks. Because you'll have a 2.3L timing cover, you have to buy a 2.3L serpentine belt. I bought the 2.0L belt. Doh. Too short. From now on do not buy anything for a 2.0L Mazda engine.

4) Keep the Ford oil separator unit (sits on the side of the block below the intake manifold and holds the PCV valve) and buy a Mazda PCV valve. You cannot use a Ford PCV valve. Either oil separator unit is fine (the Ford is better) but you have to use a matching PCV valve + connecting tube + intake manifold. Keep all Ford or all Mazda. The swap is "easier" if you use all Mazda. If you want to keep as much Ford stuff as possible, then you'll be getting help from other people. I went all Mazda.

5) Last item! To get the most out of the 2.5L engine, buy a used 2.5L Mazda intake manifold and 2.5L throttle body. The Ford fuel rail and injectors will work just fine. For many reasons you need to use the Mazda IM and TB. They'll play super nicely with the ECU. If you go this route, you won't need to buy an adaptors that are out there and you won't need to trick the ECU in any way. You're engine will look 100% stock and give you no CEL.
 

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I've been on the forums for quite some time. There are so many "wanting to swap engine" threads, yet I still have to see one happen.
 

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I've been on the forums for quite some time. There are so many "wanting to swap engine" threads, yet I still have to see one happen.
Lots of folks did the 2.5L Duratec swap into a Gen1 Mazda3 over on mazda3forums.com, including me and rickkari. I had to leave that site because it got out of control.

https://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/692793-how-mazda-ford-2-5l-swap.html

https://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/647562-04-2-3l-swap-2-5l-successful.html

https://www.mazda3forums.com/61-powertrain-2004-2009-mazda3/758761-tonyguns-2-5-swap-experience.html

I can't find rickkari's thread, LOL. I'll start my own over here so folks can learn what I did. Most of the folks that did the swaps 2-3 years ago on mazda3forums are no longer there.
 

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I'd like to know who moderates the 1st Gen forums, because I'd like to work with that person to replace the Stickies with an index to specific threads. It helps organize information and make searches less frustrating for all involved.
 

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Another thing do yall know where I could get a reasonable performance monifold header for the 2.5l engine , cause when doing the swap I would just change those stuff one time before installation.
 

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I have no information on headers for you.

I was reading several Miata engine swap threads and they like the 2.5L Duratec engines too! They need to retain their 2.0L oil pans for clearance issues after install, so they must do the balance shaft delete. So far no one has complained about vibrations caused by removing the balance shaft. Hmmm....
 

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Here is an *excellent* build thread of putting a 2.5L Duratec into a Miata. Great pictures, great information. They have to do the exact same strip down of the Duratec to a longblock, but then they end up doing extra modifications that Mazda3 owners don't have to do. Ours is easy by comparison.

Good information on the friction washers and on timing the engine. For additional timing information (which is ultra important) see the youtube videos by baxrok2. He has other videos that detail some of his Mazda3 2.5L swap.

Mazda Miata build thread: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=636531
 

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Kemar2k9,

I responded to you pm, but some things I want to answer here because anyone else who does this will need the same information. Keep in mind there is a ton of information in other forums on this, literally thousands of posts. They are worth reading. It takes work, but you'll have a much better understanding of all the mistakes others made and the difficulties they ran into trying one approach over another. Some approaches people take gives them a CEL, and they don't mind living with a CEL on all the time. I wasn't going to give my daughter her car back and tell her to permanently ignore the CEL for the rest of the time she owned the car.

My recommendation was to buy a Mazda 2.3L oil pan, timing cover, and serpentine belt. And also buy a Mazda 2.5L intake manifold and throttle body. The rest of the stuff you use your Mazda 2.0L engine parts except where the Ford part is exactly the same just newer.

If you want to use the Ford valve cover and intake manifold and throttle body, then you'll need to find people that can help you with that. The Ford valve cover will only accept the Ford coil packs. Good luck. The '04-'05 Mazda coil packs are 2-wire like the Ford. The '06 and later Mazda coil packs are 3-wire. I don't know how you'll use a Ford 2-wire coil pack with your wiring harness. The Mazda valve cover will only accept the Mazda coil packs. You can use the 2.0L valve cover and coil packs if you want. No need to buy anything for a Mazda 2.3L or 2.5L.

If you want to use the Ford intake manifold and throttle body, then you'll need find someone to help you with the throttle body because there is an electrical hookup and a coolant hookup that I don't know what to do with if you don't use the Mazda TB. The Ford intake manifold can be used if you take the IMRC vacuum actuator and tie-wrap it somewhere in the engine compartment. It has to be electrically hooked up and have the vacuum line attached. The other actuator for the IM has no electrical connection so the sensors don't know if it is hooked up or even working, so you can plug the vacuum line at the valve and get rid of the actuator itself.

Use all your Mazda 2.0L pulleys and a Mazda 2.3L serpentine belt.
 

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Hey guys this my first time on here ,I'm just hoping u guys could help me out with a few tips. I have a 06 mazda 3 2.0l but I'm trying to upgrade to either the 2.0 ford EcoBoost or the regular ford 2.5 engine, but I wanna kno if I have to change my transmission as well along with the engine computer? Rite now I have a automatic transmission, but if have to change it,I would just go change to manual instead. Do this swap even make sense? Cause I wanna kno for sure tht it fit,because base on my research it seems like it will fit .
Here is a link to my swap thread. It has links to other 2.5 swap threads as well as links to YouTube videos I posted after a recent 2.5 swap in a '07 Mazda 6 where I discuss the various steps and differences from doing the two 2.5 swaps I've done.

https://www.mazda3forums.com/799-introductions/757746-2004-mazda-3-2-3-2-5-swap-progress.html
 

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Thanks for chiming in. I like how in your build thread you added links for other important build threads and pertinent information. I didn't realize your thread was as long as it was, or that you created youtube videos. Great job! I hadn't followed up on that forum since I bailed on it six months ago.

So it looks like a '12 Fusion engine is a near-perfect match for an '06-'09 Mazda3, whereas the '15 Fusion requires the valve cover modification to accommodate the larger VVT solenoid and gasket. There are 32mm hole saw drill bits, so that might be a way of creating a nice clean hole and not having to rely on RTV gasket to seal that area.

I think the performance benefit you mention is from the IMRC in the Mazda intake manifold. Once the intake runners close, the effective intake tube length is shortened to work better at higher rpms. Longer tube length for low rpm torque and shorter tube length for high rpm horsepower. The 2.5L head flows really well, and that's why the performance engine builders like them. Adding the 2.5L intake and throttle body is a nice combination for performance and there are no adapter plates to use and no modifications to make. The trade-off is money. Figure $300 more for the parts. It's the easier route to take for people who want a bolt-on solution.
 

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I think the performance benefit you mention is from the IMRC in the Mazda intake manifold. Once the intake runners close, the effective intake tube length is shortened to work better at higher rpms. Longer tube length for low rpm torque and shorter tube length for high rpm horsepower. The 2.5L head flows really well, and that's why the performance engine builders like them. Adding the 2.5L intake and throttle body is a nice combination for performance and there are no adapter plates to use and no modifications to make. The trade-off is money. Figure $300 more for the parts. It's the easier route to take for people who want a bolt-on solution.
This is the feedback I was looking for. I agree with your reasoning as to why the IMRC with the stock ECU tune works the best and agree that the Mazda 2.5 intake/throttle body will give the best combo verses the 2.5 Ford with no IMRC or the adapted 2.0 or 2.3 intake. Just wanted to hear from someone like you who has gone the Mazda 2.5 intake/TB route. You should post this on my thread for others doing the swap.
 

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You should post this on my thread for others doing the swap.
You're just trying to get me to come back to the other forum, aren't you? lol

In the very, very long swap thread over there (the one with 1500+ posts) there were a number of guys doing the engine swap and almost all of them were using the 2.3L IM and TB, with a couple of guys later on using the Ford setup. Adapter plates for mating up the intake to the head, another adapter for the TB, etc. Two different guys were working on adapters and selling them.

Then someone mentioned the "holy grail" of 2.5L swaps would be to use an IM and TB from a Mazda 2.5L. I may have been the first to actually go that route, but I did it that way because it was easy, and the swap seemed fairly daunting since I hadn't worked very in-depth on cars in a long time. I wish I could compare the engine performance side by side with another Mazda3 that has a different setup.

The performance manifolds that were developed for the 2.5L Duratec engines (see Miata build threads!) have very short runners in order to maximize hp at the highest rpms possible. Typically the 2.5L engine is built for 7500rpm and the 2.0L engine is built for 8000rpm. There are two routes for intake-modified power - one that uses a performance manifold with a large, single TB, and another that uses ITBs - these individual TBs can be direct-to-head or can be mounted to a very short IM.

None of the intake mods are street legal, unless the performance intake manifold is adapted to use the EGR valve instead of deleting it.

I just went way off topic...
 

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Your transmission will bolt up exactly to the new engine. Keep it! All the Ford and Mazda L engines (L3 = 2.3L, LF = 2.0L) share the same block including the 2.0, 2.3, 2.5.

Going from a 2.0, instead of a 2.3, to a 2.5 takes just a little more cost. Not extra work, but cost. Whether you are going from a 2.0 or a 2.3 to the Ford Duratec, you'll be using a Mazda valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. You are stripping down the Ford engine to the long block. That's actually quite easy to do because you're just taking off all the external junk.

This is a long post, but I cover five areas for you that are important.

1) The head on a 2.3 AND 2.5 is taller than on a 2.0 by 1/2". This impacts you three ways. Since you'll be keeping the serpentine belt config of the Mazda (2 belts instead of 1 super long belt for the Ford) you need to BUY a used 2.3L Mazda timing cover. Your old timing cover is short by 1/2". The 2.3 Mazda timing cover is the exact same size as the 2.5 Ford. Also, because the head is taller, the engine needs to sit higher as supported by the motor mount. Old Mazda3 motor mounts are typically already broken, lol, so do yourself a favor and buy a 2.3L Mazda passenger side motor mount. I just went ahead and replaced all three since you can get a set for something like $60 (aftermarket, not OEM). Lastly, the exhaust manifold will not mate up to the support bracket without a spacer, because the exhaust manifold is attached to the head, and the support bracket is attached to the block. You will have a gap of exactly 1/2", so go to an Ace Hardware and buy some machined 1/2" spacers to put between the bracket and the manifold. Don't go all redneck engineering and put in a stack of washers to fill the gap. :) Spend $2 and get two super cool spacers.

2) You need to buy a used 2.3L Mazda oil pan OR do a balance shaft delete (BSD). The 2.0L engine does not use a balance shaft - acts as a counterbalance to the crankshaft to prevent vibrations. The 2.3 and 2.5 do use a balance shaft. A BSD is cheap, and makes the engine more responsive since there is less rotating weight, but you might find that you have undesirable vibrations. I left the balance shaft in and put in the deeper 2.3L pan. Oh, and you MUST match the oil pickup tube with the pan!! If you want to keep the Ford pan, stick with the Ford oil pickup tube. But you'll have to relocate the A/C compressor since the Mazda pan has the compressor sitting in a recess of the pan. The Ford pan does not have a deep end and a shallow end - just deep all the way. Some people keep the higher capacity Ford pan and relocate the A/C compressor.

3) You'll keep keeping the water pump pulley. Stick with the Ford water pump, just use the Mazda pulley. And you must use the Mazda crank pulley because it has the right timing marks. Because you'll have a 2.3L timing cover, you have to buy a 2.3L serpentine belt. I bought the 2.0L belt. Doh. Too short. From now on do not buy anything for a 2.0L Mazda engine.

4) Keep the Ford oil separator unit (sits on the side of the block below the intake manifold and holds the PCV valve) and buy a Mazda PCV valve. You cannot use a Ford PCV valve. Either oil separator unit is fine (the Ford is better) but you have to use a matching PCV valve + connecting tube + intake manifold. Keep all Ford or all Mazda. The swap is "easier" if you use all Mazda. If you want to keep as much Ford stuff as possible, then you'll be getting help from other people. I went all Mazda.

5) Last item! To get the most out of the 2.5L engine, buy a used 2.5L Mazda intake manifold and 2.5L throttle body. The Ford fuel rail and injectors will work just fine. For many reasons you need to use the Mazda IM and TB. They'll play super nicely with the ECU. If you go this route, you won't need to buy an adaptors that are out there and you won't need to trick the ECU in any way. You're engine will look 100% stock and give you no CEL.
This just helped me so much lol, I bought a used 88k miles 2008 base sedan 3 with the 2.0, and within a week of owning her it spun a rod bearing, and I'm sure y'all know about that problem. Anyway I tried replacing the bottom bearings only to find out the main bearing is skrewd also, only on cyl 4, the rest seem fine. But the oil was sludge and the engine looked chard like it was overheated. Keep in mind the front tires were bald and the rear were almost new I should've known before I bought it. But anyway it's sitting in my drive way take apart right now, I'm thinking about just throwing a 2.5 in there.. can someone give me the specifics on which 2.5 that would bolt up? How new can it be. Can it be any Ford 2.5 motor or does it need to be a specific spec or type of 2.5? Or are they all the same. You're really saying that other than the minor mods for the half inch difference, it's plug and play install? Does anyone know a reliable source to buying a trusted used engine? I don't wanna get a craped out eBay motor or something.
 

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I assume
You're just trying to get me to come back to the other forum, aren't you? lol

In the very, very long swap thread over there (the one with 1500+ posts) there were a number of guys doing the engine swap and almost all of them were using the 2.3L IM and TB, with a couple of guys later on using the Ford setup. Adapter plates for mating up the intake to the head, another adapter for the TB, etc. Two different guys were working on adapters and selling them.

Then someone mentioned the "holy grail" of 2.5L swaps would be to use an IM and TB from a Mazda 2.5L. I may have been the first to actually go that route, but I did it that way because it was easy, and the swap seemed fairly daunting since I hadn't worked very in-depth on cars in a long time. I wish I could compare the engine performance side by side with another Mazda3 that has a different setup.

The performance manifolds that were developed for the 2.5L Duratec engines (see Miata build threads!) have very short runners in order to maximize hp at the highest rpms possible. Typically the 2.5L engine is built for 7500rpm and the 2.0L engine is built for 8000rpm. There are two routes for intake-modified power - one that uses a performance manifold with a large, single TB, and another that uses ITBs - these individual TBs can be direct-to-head or can be mounted to a very short IM.

None of the intake mods are street legal, unless the performance intake manifold is adapted to use the EGR valve instead of deleting it.

I just went way off topic...
I assume I'd be ok using an engine from a 6spd automatic for a 5spd manual?
 
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