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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking at getting an intake for my iTouring and I know the topic has been beaten to death on which intake is the best, but that's not what I'm after... I'm aware there are several options available for SRI's like Corksport, Simota, Injen, etc etc.

However, I'm after a cold air intake and the only two manufacturers are Injen and Takeda... both of which are only listed as being compatible with the 2.5 motor. Now I've seen a few people comment on putting a 2.5 Corksport SRI on a 2.0 and vice versa. Will the 2.5 CAI fit as well?

Does anyone know the specific reason behind why they say they don't fit the 2.0? Will it physically not fit the engine bay the same on the 2.0 (which I find hard to believe, I'm imagining/hoping it'd bolt up alright)?

Or is it something like different MAF diameters where it'll meter air differently and throw a CEL code? If it's something like a CEL from different MAF, I'd have no problem building an insert for the MAF section that would smoothly reduce the diameter like a velocity stack to get the right air flow to not throw a CEL if that's the only reason the intake is listed as not being compatible with the 2.0 motor.

Can anyone with either the Takeda or Injen CAI systems comment?
 

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I believe it's a difference in the maf's. Don't quote me on that though. There is someone on her running a 2.0 intake on there 2.5 and they get a cel
 

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Not fitting might not mean physically. The 2.0 and 2.5 have different air demands. The maf calibration (mass at flow) will be wrong. That means a cel, running either rich or lean and poor fuel economy and performance.

LOL swerv0428 beat me to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm gonna measure the inside diameter of my factory intake where the MAF is located. Anyone want to do me a real solid and measure the same spot on a 2.5?

If it's just a case of different diameters, I imagine it would be fairly straight forward to make a reducer where the MAF is located to get back to 2.0 specs, right?
 

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But just because you put a reducer in there doesn't mean it is going to be optimal. Take this for example, when I installed my K&N I omitted the air straightener as I was under the belief how could something so archaic make a difference. But after metering the air with and without, I put the damn thing in.

My point, the intake and the reducer may just be a pain in the wallet. So why not get something actually made for your car?
 

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trust me. Just get whats made for your model. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But just because you put a reducer in there doesn't mean it is going to be optimal. Take this for example, when I installed my K&N I omitted the air straightener as I was under the belief how could something so archaic make a difference. But after metering the air with and without, I put the damn thing in.

My point, the intake and the reducer may just be a pain in the wallet. So why not get something actually made for your car?

Well there lies the problem... there ISN'T something made for my car. I don't want a hot air intake...
Hence where I am right now... asking if the 2.5 intake will bolt up and if the exact issue is MAF metering as that is something I think I could solve.
 

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Well anyone that has dyno'd the 2.5 to my recollection had a "hot air intake" and all posted good numbers. It's an age old question CAI vs SRI, in the end at cruising speeds its not like the air can defy physics and enter the filter.

Anyway, we made our counter argument. If you want a cold air intake, a nos fogger system, an AIC controller, and direct port nitrous oxide, then fill your boots.
 

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You have a cold air intake now. All cars essentially have one from factory. My stock speed intake will draw in air at 70 degrees when the outside temp is 70 degrees. Its not so much cold air as it is regular air temp. A Sri will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I see everyone is more apt to take the cookie cutter route... so be it.

And who said anything about nitrous and fuel trim management lmao. I simply asked if the 2.5 intake will bolt up and you guys have offered almost everything BUT.
 

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Fine. It will bolt up. We are offering advice based on what we know. It will fit but it may not run right and it will throw a code. We are sharing our advice with you. In the end it's your car, your money, and your choice. If you feel you can make it work then try it. I'm not being rude with you I mean this in a helpful way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. And I'm not claiming any content to be rude or anything... just a little off topic from what I had originally asked. A CEL code doesn't bother me and I don't think I'll have a problem rectifying it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was quoting fast and the furious.
It's been awhile since I've seen the original. They're on like F&F 5 now right? Needs to stop lol.:Racing 1:

Autoanything has 15% off and free shipping so I can get Takeda for like $212 or something shipped and could probably return it if it didn't fit/threw a code.
 
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