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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, its finally here, 100,000 miles (161k km). Im sure many of you are wondering how this car will do over time and miles. Overall I enjoy the car. I have an early Japanese production cycle 3. Mine was built in Sept 2013. Purchased Jan 2014. So I probably have more little annoyances than everyone. Car still drives well, economical to run and fairly reliable. All good reasons to still own this car. One annoyance that will never go away with this car is the poor visibility. I've hit rocks both front and rear while at a yosemite parking lot.

So, lets start with the bad. After 3 years and 100k miles, there is a common theme to the things that went wrong out of warranty (loose bolts/screws):
90k: light rattle in drivers door, didnt bother fixing
80k to 90k: I kept getting scrambled video feed when i used the backup camera a few times a week. When this happened, I would pull up on the left rear passenger window switch TWO times and the image will unscramble itself. Weird gremlin that a Mazda shop says it happens and its hard to fix. AFTER I QUIT MY JOB from the last company i worked at, this seemed to have disappeared. Maybe where I worked had some sort of weird electrical disturbance? haha. I havnt seen it in the last 4 months. WEIRD!!!
80k miles: moonroof motor mount nut fell off. the moonroof made grinding noises and there was a rattle behind the sunglass holder. i remove the sunglass holder and screw the nut back on. rock chips started to rust, i used a mazda touchup pen to fix.
65k miles: black plastic trim near the rear mini spoiler started to fade. weather seal around moonroof started to fade.
60k miles: power driver seat started to rock. i think a bolt is loose. common problem with CX-5 and 6. some dealers fixed it by tighten bolts, others just took the easy way out and replace the seat rails or the whole seat assembly. Ill probably ask a mazda shop to tighten the bolts.
55k miles: rattle in front passenger side door, fixed by tightening the screws in the door grab handle, its under the rubber flap (not the door release lever).

Things fixed under warranty 36k miles:
-leaky front left brake caliper
-rattle from windshield area
-realigned neutral for the MT
-door sill trim piece came off

Now for the good stuff:
-Engine, transmission and handling still feels like it was new. The car rides solid.
-no major mechanical or electrical issues, so zero days out of service between 36k to 100k miles.
-I can still easily hit 40+ MPG on the highway.
-leatherette looks great, almost like new still, no fades, no cracks, no flatten. i applied 303 areospace once a year to the interior.
-interior looks pretty new, no fading of interior plastics. no loss of gloss to the piano black plastic.

Maintenance Routine:
-Oil change between 7-10k miles
-Tires rotated every 5k miles
-change rear brake pads at ~65k miles. im still on original front pads. Last checked at 92k, there was 40% left. 3 is rear bias.
-cleaned K&N filter ever 50k miles
-new interior cabin filter ever 50k miles
-alignment done at 76k miles
-Red line MT fluid drain and fill at 65k miles.
-Michelin Premiers tires at 65k (quieter, more wet grip, but seems like more tire flex)
-Will install some denso spark plugs soon.
 

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Many thanks for posting this very useful account of your experience up to 100k miles. Glad to hear things are basically working out well! Would love to see pics of your ride at 3 years/100k, if you have any to share. Thx again!
 

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Good Stuff!
Thanks for the review
I'd like to see more stuff like this from high-mileage 3rd gen owners
 

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Was this a Mexico or Japanese build?
Please read the post: "I have an early Japanese production cycle 3. Mine was build in Sept 2013. Purchased Jan 2014."
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a mexican bumper now. It was replaced after a fender bender. The paint on it was terrible. The blue paint overflowed into the black plastic portion of the bumper. I see this on some 3s and not others. My original japanese bumper didnt have this issue.
 

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I have a mexican bumper now. It was replaced after a fender bender. The paint on it was terrible. The blue paint overflowed into the black plastic portion of the bumper. I see this on some 3s and not others. My original japanese bumper didnt have this issue.
That can't be a factory painted bumper then. You say that you've seen this on some 3s and not others? I can't believe Mazda would allow Mexico to botch factory paint jobs like that. Most likely, the shop probably got a bumper and painted it themselves and didn't do a perfect job taping off the black plastic of the bumper. You actually just made me look at before and after pictures of my replaced bumper and I've got the same thing! Ugggghhhh. Sometimes, the less you know, the better off you are.

How is the color match of the blue between your fenders or quarter panels and bumpers though? My soul red isn't perfect. They painted the fenders which match nicely, but the plastic bumpers lack depth.

Thanks for the nice review! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That can't be a factory painted bumper then. You say that you've seen this on some 3s and not others? I can't believe Mazda would allow Mexico to botch factory paint jobs like that. Most likely, the shop probably got a bumper and painted it themselves and didn't do a perfect job taping off the black plastic of the bumper. You actually just made me look at before and after pictures of my replaced bumper and I've got the same thing! Ugggghhhh. Sometimes, the less you know, the better off you are.

How is the color match of the blue between your fenders or quarter panels and bumpers though? My soul red isn't perfect. They painted the fenders which match nicely, but the plastic bumpers lack depth.

Thanks for the nice review! :)
yes ive seen that on a lot of mazda3s with the overflow, sedans and hatches. look around 3s next time, its not consistent. maybe mazda fixed this by 2017. the body shop didnt paint the bumper. the bumper was an OEM prepainted bumper from mazda. theres no paint work done to my car. color match is perfect.
 

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Great Post!

Great to see a review like this - longevity, just one MORE reason I'm glad I got my Mazda3!

Nice to see a few things to watch for (and how to fix them), so I can take care of them before they become bigger issues.

Thanks!
 

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Well, its finally here, 100,000 miles (161k km). Im sure many of you are wondering how this car will do over time and miles. Overall I enjoy the car. I have an early Japanese production cycle 3. Mine was built in Sept 2013. Purchased Jan 2014. So I probably have more little annoyances than everyone. Car still drives well, economical to run and fairly reliable. All good reasons to still own this car. One annoyance that will never go away with this car is the poor visibility. I've hit rocks both front and rear while at a yosemite parking lot.

So, lets start with the bad. After 3 years and 100k miles, there is a common theme to the things that went wrong out of warranty (loose bolts/screws):
90k: light rattle in drivers door, didnt bother fixing
80k to 90k: I kept getting scrambled video feed when i used the backup camera a few times a week. When this happened, I would pull up on the left rear passenger window switch TWO times and the image will unscramble itself. Weird gremlin that a Mazda shop says it happens and its hard to fix. AFTER I QUIT MY JOB from the last company i worked at, this seemed to have disappeared. Maybe where I worked had some sort of weird electrical disturbance? haha. I havnt seen it in the last 4 months. WEIRD!!!
80k miles: moonroof motor mount nut fell off. the moonroof made grinding noises and there was a rattle behind the sunglass holder. i remove the sunglass holder and screw the nut back on. rock chips started to rust, i used a mazda touchup pen to fix.
65k miles: black plastic trim near the rear mini spoiler started to fade. weather seal around moonroof started to fade.
60k miles: power driver seat started to rock. i think a bolt is loose. common problem with CX-5 and 6. some dealers fixed it by tighten bolts, others just took the easy way out and replace the seat rails or the whole seat assembly. Ill probably ask a mazda shop to tighten the bolts.
55k miles: rattle in front passenger side door, fixed by tightening the screws in the door grab handle, its under the rubber flap (not the door release lever).

Things fixed under warranty 36k miles:
-leaky front left brake caliper
-rattle from windshield area
-realigned neutral for the MT
-door sill trim piece came off

Now for the good stuff:
-Engine, transmission and handling still feels like it was new. The car rides solid.
-no major mechanical or electrical issues, so zero days out of service between 36k to 100k miles.
-I can still easily hit 40+ MPG on the highway.
-leatherette looks great, almost like new still, no fades, no cracks, no flatten. i applied 303 areospace once a year to the interior.
-interior looks pretty new, no fading of interior plastics. no loss of gloss to the piano black plastic.

Maintenance Routine:
-Oil change between 7-10k miles
-Tires rotated every 5k miles
-change rear brake pads at ~65k miles. im still on original front pads. Last checked at 92k, there was 40% left. 3 is rear bias.
-cleaned K&N filter ever 50k miles
-new interior cabin filter ever 50k miles
-alignment done at 76k miles
-Red line MT fluid drain and fill at 65k miles.
-Michelin Premiers tires at 65k (quieter, more wet grip, but seems like more tire flex)
-Will install some denso spark plugs soon.
Have you ever had to top up the oil? and if you have, how much every 10.000? The only problem that I have with my M3 SP25 2016 that I think is a problem, is that it has burned oil from the start. It's at 10.000ks now and all the dealer seems to do is just change the oil after 6 months, and doesn't seem to take my concerns seriously. After 4000k it is now reading at halfway on the dipstick. I checked at after the dealer last changed it, and it was reading just under the full mark. It's just that I don't think a brand new car should be going through oil, apart from the first two thousand ks running in. Am I worrying unnecessarily? or should push my concerns with the dealer more forcefully?
 

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It sounds like you're burning oil at the rate of about 1 quart per 5000 miles. I doubt this indicates a problem with the car. Some cars seem to do this for whatever reason. Occasionally an owner reports this happening, but I don't remember reading of any problems resulting from it. Just make sure your dealer has documented it in case it does cause problems down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
@Ivant

i have no oil burn issue. i have the 2L . my oil levels are are within range and not really dirty. I suggest against measuring the oil right after an oil change. Drive a little bit first and have the oil circulate first then check the oil. I used to do my own oil changes, oil level usually drops a lil bit after an oil change if I drive a little bit. even if the oil drops, if the oil level is within range between oil changes, i wouldnt worry too much.

edit: i saw your other post. if your tail pipe is black, then yes, you should check with your dealer. my pipe is fairly clean. only thing i see is a little steam on cold mornings.
 

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Maintenance Routine:
-Oil change between 7-10k miles
-Tires rotated every 5k miles
-change rear brake pads at ~65k miles. im still on original front pads. Last checked at 92k, there was 40% left. 3 is rear bias.
-cleaned K&N filter ever 50k miles
-new interior cabin filter ever 50k miles
-alignment done at 76k miles
-Red line MT fluid drain and fill at 65k miles.
-Michelin Premiers tires at 65k (quieter, more wet grip, but seems like more tire flex)
-Will install some denso spark plugs soon.
Are you still running the original brake fluid?
 

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I've just ordered a new UK Mazda 3 (Japanese build) so your review is reassuring. The low brake pad wear is impressive.
 

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How are the roads on your commute? I drive in some pretty nasty roads in the city and am worrying how worn the suspension will be in a few years. And do you drive in the city or highway for the brakes to last so long?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How are the roads on your commute? I drive in some pretty nasty roads in the city and am worrying how worn the suspension will be in a few years. And do you drive in the city or highway for the brakes to last so long?
I drive in SF Bay Area so the roads are terrible, but a lil better than Los Angeles. Most of my miles on highway, thats why the pads last so long. But talking to an independent Mazda shop, they recommend the OEM mazda pads as they last fairly long. Suspension wise, its lasting longer than my 02 civic. My 02 civic had struts replaced at 99k miles and then both front LCA replaced at 138k miles. At 108k miles, the suspension rides like new for me. I am hearing some slight noise from the rear right strut. I'll have to keep my eye on that.
 
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